Jump to content

hls3073z

remove tranny requires engine removal on 73 240?

Recommended Posts

On my 73 240 I recently removed the tranny in order to replace the clutch.  I got it out, it wasn't easy just using floor jacks and jack stands but I got it out.  I was reading the manual and I see that it says to remove engine as well.  Is that necessary?   Would it be difficult to put the  tranny in w/o having removed the engine?  I can see that it will be difficult to get the tranny back up in there with engine in place  due to the small up high  tunnel.  

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I easily removed auto and replaced with manual on '72 with engine staying put.  I cannot imagine that the '73 would be any different.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Should not be a problem putting the trans on with the engine in place.  I have done it several times before when replacing a leaky rear seal on an engine.  I use a couple scissors jacks on a plastic 'oil drip tray' and carefully slide the assembly forward once it is at the right height.  Make sure the trans housing and mating engine block are parallel.  Also, you might have to rotate the drive shaft back and forth to get the transmission splines to insert into the clutch plate splines as you slide the transmission in.  

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Helps to put the transmission in gear. If you are changing the pilot gearing check it on the front shaft before installing.


72 body with 71 interior, Eibach, Illumina, R180 CLSD, 83 close ratio, 3.90 gears, Zstory, SUs, BRE Libre wheels and front spoiler.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
2 hours ago, hls3073z said:

  I got it out, it wasn't easy just using floor jacks and jack stands but I got it out.  

It's easier with a good transmission jack.  Removing the engine will add much more difficulty to the whole project.

There are some tricks you can use, like cutting the heads off of extra long bolts and running them in to the mounting holes to use as guide pins.  Use the cars scissor jack to move the back of the engine up or down, for fine orientation.  Make sure the clutch disc is perfectly centered, don't use a loose clutch alignment tool.  Stuff like that.  Not too hard to get done.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

OK, tks for feedback.  Zhed you are basically suggesting put studs up there at the top of the engine.  In the process of getting the tranny out the studs on the exhaust broke off.    After that happened  I decided I really need to paint the engine area due to rust starting so  I pulled the engine anyway.  Of course I had told my wife that I'd have this thing moving out of the driveway in a couple of weeks.  Now I'm thinking about repainting the whole thing.

One other headache I have is that my driveway is slightly sloping so that made a  problem with jacks etc.

So now the decision will be whether or not to mount the tranny on the engine outside the body and then drop it in.  One other complication is that I'm thinking about going back with a 81 2+2 ZX 5 speed and diff.  I've read elsewhere that it should fit.

This is how projects sometimes never end.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I've installed the engine and trans together, it's not difficult, just bulky.  A load leveler would help a lot.  My biggest problem was lifting the tail of the transmission up to get the crossmember under it.  Since then I've learned about pulling it up from inside with a rope.

The 2+2 parts should fit fine except that you'll need a 280Z mustache bar and "dog bone" for the diff.  The dog bone is what people call the brace between the two suspension mounting points in the back.  It's curved to make room for the larger R200.

You could do the transmission first and the diff later.  There's always more to do...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

 I was under the impression that the diffy had to be done at the same time  otherwise the dimensions wouldn't work, so I like your suggestion.

I assume that the dog bone and mustache bar from the ZX won't work.

 

True there's always work, for a while I thought about pulling the whole ZX drivetrain  out and putting it into the Z, get fuel injection all that good stuff.  But that's definitely another day.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The ZX's don't have a mustache bar, Nissan changed the mounting with the body style.

I have a spare mustache bar but don't have the dog bone.  

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

thanks for the feedback.  Sounds like its best for me to remove the tranny  and  3rd member from  the ZX.  Then do some measurements.   I'll check back with you on mustache later  if need be.  I would guess that the drive shaft is longer on the 2+2 ZX.

Are you confident that the trannys 4 sp vs 5sp zx are the same length?  so it should fit the same maybe increase the opening size inside the 240 for 5th gear slot? 

There was a table somewhere  that showed the rear axle ratios so I can figure out the overall ratios.  I'd like to get more rpms in the low gears for more torque on leaving the line.

edit, I found the table and it looks like 1st gear is 3.0 vs 3.5 for zx vs 240 respectively so the 5 sp would make my off the line jump worse so probably should stick with the 4sp until I can get the rear axle sorted out.  My off the line jump experience  has been spoiled by my duramax 6.3L diesel in my truck.

Edited by hls3073z

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have an extra set of parts to mount an R200 in a 240. Let me know if you have interest.

 

 

72 body with 71 interior, Eibach, Illumina, R180 CLSD, 83 close ratio, 3.90 gears, Zstory, SUs, BRE Libre wheels and front spoiler.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yes, you'd want the 3.9 R200 if you don't want to work the clutch until you get the other parts.

Don't overlook the opportunity to do clutch maintenance.  Overall, the clutch, transmission, and rear end work are simple, just big parts to work with.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
26 minutes ago, Zed Head said:

Yes, you'd want the 3.9 R200 if you don't want to work the clutch until you get the other parts.

Don't overlook the opportunity to do clutch maintenance.  Overall, the clutch, transmission, and rear end work are simple, just big parts to work with.

No problem there.  The whole reason the engine came out was that I was replacing the clutch, (the problem was actually fatigued springs in the pressure plate).  The exhaust had to come out and 2 studs twisted off on the header so we decided to pull the engine to get those studs replaced.  So, yes, now is the time to do everything I ever thought about.  Everything is mostly  original, it has about 200K miles on that clutch.  For the moment the focus is on stopping rust that has started in the engine bay.  Any recommendations on paint for that?   Sand to bare metal then  rustoleum for primer and then  PPG one step for the engine bay is the plan.  The PPG guys looked up 918 and sure enough, Mexican Orange, they can do it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
2 minutes ago, hls3073z said:

rustoleum for primer

NOOOO!!! :tapemouth: Talk to the PPG guys. Ask them for what to buy and how to do it. It is also best to stay with PPG products start to finish to avoid incompatibility issues. Be very careful and use a good respirator with these cars paints. They can hurt you in permanent ways if you get careless. You can also go to the PPG website was you have product and get the "P" sheets (technical product instructions) which will provide a lot of the details for how to use the product, grit to finish at, spray tip, pot life, etc.

Ask all questions, there are a number of members here who have DIY paint experience. Ask first before you muck something up or waste expensive products. Some one will try to help I am sure

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

thanks Charles,

I wondered about that.  I was quite surprised when I talked to the ppg guys that they said rustoleum "no problem".  They seemed too laid back.  At least they talked to me.  When I called Sherwin Williams they said sorry don't talk to consumers and besides that car is too old for our system.  I need to go post a question in the  body paint section of the forum.  I'm just anxious to stop that rust.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.