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Everything posted by hls3073z

  1. hls3073z


    My current plan is to clean off as much of that rust as I can and then go back with POR15. That POR15 should wet down into those open seams to stop the rust in there. I'll end up with a black engine bay unless I go back and paint over it. I've got the same problem under the battery platform.
  2. hls3073z


    Cleaning up the engine bay in my 73. Between the firewall and fender and between fender and the rail there is a gap. Was this previously filled in with a rubber caulk like material?. I have been power washing and may have washed some of it out. so question would be what to go back with. There is a 3m marine product 3200 and 3600 that is rubbery. the 3600 material is almost not removable.
  3. Joe, which Z do you have? 240?
  4. Are the cowl drain tubes plastic? I can spray some water down that front cowl and then see if any comes out inside. I think the other thing that happened is that there was some aftermarket coating on the bottom that had developed cracks so water got trapped underneath leading to rust from the bottom. However, its clear that some water came in at the front part as that is where its most rusted out including that rail.
  5. I'm retired too so I'm slowly finding all these problems.😔 Just for reference, there were drain plugs in there, they were just old and brittle so I pried them out. Unfortunately, water got around those plugs or just came from somewhere to cause that devil rust in the floor pan. Disappointing since its all my fault since I've had this car since ' 76.
  6. I'm digging further and finding that I will need to replace the floor pans or at least most of it. It looks like the rust problem was caused by the fact that water got up from the bottom and then underneath that rubbery coating. That coating kinda looks like a heavy duty roofing membrane. You can see pieces of it ripped up in the photo. I suppose that this stuff was put in at the factory since its painted 918. Was this put in to be a noise dampener/insulation? Odd that there are drain holes that actually served as a way for water to get up under that coating.
  7. Which Z car are you wanting to install this oil pressure switch? 240? Assuming the sender that you are buying does have a pressure>resistance sensor in it you will want to compare the resistance values to your original. If it works great. I'd like to know. I did something similar years ago. It was a bit convoluted, I got a T and then used the original sender on one port and another sensor designed for idiot lights on the other port for my fuel pump control. It worked fine however it did look like something you'd see in an oil field. If you can get one sender that has all the function in it that's great.
  8. I'm in that group too Pat. I guess quite obviously since I've been running with the electric pump only since 1979. Those relays do the exact opposite of what was described, they make sure the elec pump is not running in event the engine stops, like in an accident. Turning on start key enables the pump again. Has anyone seen a Z with the "competition hood vent". Actually, that became standard in the zx.
  9. zedhed, do you have a copy of the pattern for the heat shield that is suggested? While my engine is sitting out now is a good time for me to fabricate something. Is there a source for those 72 carburetor mounting blocks? I assume that they are some kind heat insulating material, like bakelite. Regarding the mech fuel pump. Back when I still had the mech fuel when I would stop and let it have a hot soak you could literally hear the fuel percolating inside that fuel pump.
  10. Interesting idea. What holds the copper strip in place while you are welding on the other side? I can see that I need to keep asking questions before I do anything.
  11. Right, not the heavy duty frame rails. Fortunately, I caught them before the rust got there. I need to do some practicing with my mig welder on thin metal. its an art like painting.
  12. Is it possible to replace the floor pan and rails with engine and tranny still in place? I'm just thinking about all the welding that needs to take place. All the fuel and lines have been drained. The frame rails are still ok and don't need replacement. Its just that rust has eaten a lot of the passenger floor pan.
  13. I don't mind shifting gears. My complaint was that unless I reved up and slipped the clutch there was a stumble on takeoff. Now...I am really spoiled as I have a duramax 3/4T diesel truck and it just leaps right at the start and shifts 6 gears faster than I could ever think about it. The z engine is total stock except I put a 280zx distributor and ignition on it.
  14. Way back almost before I can remember in my stupider days I took my 73 z with 40K miles to the local expert/racer to check valve clearances. I asked him to advance that timing gear a notch as I thought that the chain may have stretched. I think all that did was shift the power curve further up in the rpm range and contributed to my feeling like the car does not have enough low end torque? Then I added the larger motosport tubo exhaust pipe. Made the problem even worse?
  15. I looked again and just noticed that bumper. Is that a painted bumper or is it some kind of plastic bumper? I know restoration is cool but I really like that bumper and air dam except I'm afraid I'd break it on a parking space divider. I have to admit that the color looks better than the 918. Perhaps its more current these days.
  16. Floor mats are definitely out. I'm going to have to replace portions of the floor pan if not the whole pan due to rust. That may be a source of some of the water leading to rust. I have almost concluded that I can replace portions of the floor pan with the tranny and engine in. I'm anxious to get them in so the car can move around under its own power but I was reluctant to do that if the rust went over to the tunnel which it doesn't seem to.
  17. looks great. in that photo it looks like the 918 oragne, but it could be my monitor not being accurate.
  18. great! tks for that photo. Its going to be tricky as it is to scrub off the rust but at least I know now that it can be drained away. I'm thinking about stripping that area down and going back with POR15. That would make the area black, but it should be bullet proof then if not authentic. It amazing that little plastic pocket that contains the wiper motor seems to be ok. The car sat around for about 3 years outside so its taken some abuse. My bad. Your color was not very common. Is it a bronze?
  19. fwiw, my 73z had the electric fuel pump installed but I don't think that it ever worked. It seemed like it was wired up somehow with the alternator. I think the important thing is that the fuel pump goes off in the event of a crash. Since I couldn't figure out how to make their scheme work I wired up an oil pressure switch so that if I lose oil pressure the fuel pump stops too. I override that during start so that during starting the fuel pump runs. I removed the mech fuel pump 30+ years ago and blocked off the hole. It helped with the fuel percolation problem. Thinking back on the wiring I think what they did was sense that the alternator was no longer putting out and it that case they would shut off the elec fuel pump, and of course the wire to the starter solenoid is used just like I did to make sure that the ele pump runs during the startup time.....but I couldn't make that work.
  20. I pulled off the wipers and that grill in front of the windshield. It very rusty in there around the wiper motor but looks like its not rusted thru so if I can remove the rust and paint I can save that area. I was thinking to power wash and sand blast but then I got to wondering where would all that water go? So before I fill up some area with water and grungy stuff can someone tell me, will it flow thru to below firewall and out? It must flow thru since those louvers would have let water in on a heavy rain.
  21. yes, tasco was the most responsive suggesting ppg deltron 1 step for my engine bay. I'll look up affordable.
  22. I think the paint suppliers are kinda like auto parts suppliers were back in the 60's. They thought that they were protecting their main customers (mechanics who do that for a living) by not being responsive to the man on the street. Back then the parts houses routinely charged 2x for parts unless you were able to prove that you were actually buying the parts for "joe's Big Garage etc. Not to mention the fact that they were reluctant to help you figure out the part you needed.
  23. My SW guy wouldn't talk to me much, he said that they don't talk to "consumers" like me. Are you a consumer or a pro?
  24. That insulation on the fuel line looks impressive. I would assume asbestos. That's the kind of stuff you see when you go on tours of old navy ships etc. I suspect that was an expensive recall for Nissan back then. Sadly I doubt it helped much. On mine I could hear the fuel percolating inside the fuel pump after I stopped. I'm looking forward to tinkering with that problem when I finally get the motor back in.
  25. I see in your tagline the 918 Orange one, is that ppg as well?