Rust Advice 78 280z

[w3wilkes]

14 hours ago, Mark Maras said:

Saran Wrap. (does anyone use that term anymore?)

Only those of us that still use the term "Tin Foil", or I could say "only us old farts".

[gotham22]

I am a Saran Wrap and Tin foil guy ?

[gotham22]

Hey, was wondering if anyone had a tip for me.  I removed the drivers side outer tie rod but the passenger one is seized.  Its lefty loosy on the passenger side right? The drivers side is the one that is the opposite way?  I have used heat and PB blaster.  Wont budge.  

[zKars]

left side tie rod is the one with left hand threads. Right side is right hand thread.

That assumes no one has replaced the left side with a right side inner rod (common since left sides are hard to find), which would make them both right hand thread. Look at the threads and how they lead into the lock nuts. 

 

Edited February 16, 2020 by zKars

[UM240]

I  take "rostdelete" , with best results , see the pictures from my 240z 1971.

[UM240]

one more example

[Patcon]

5 hours ago, UM240 said:

one more example

What are we looking at in these pictures? What is the yellow stuff?

[grannyknot]

Evapo-Rust in a paste form?  Please let us know.

[UM240]

Hello, yes would call it so , here is a link to the german webside

https://www.rostdelete.de/

and a video

i beleeve you can find the same in the US

 

[Captain Obvious]

From their website (with my additions in red):

 

[grannyknot]

There is a scooter shop in England that sells it, https://www.scooter-center.com/en/rust-remover-rostdelete-1000g-7676573

but the shipping isn't cheap, haven't been able to find any distributors in NA yet.  Citric acid isn't that hard to get a hold of,  maybe I'll try some garage chemistry?

[Captain Obvious]

Honestly I'm not sure any garage chemistry is even warranted. My read on the whole thing is all that stuff is (is) a rust converting acid suspended in a bulky spongy gelatinous base material that slows down evaporation. The preservative is necessary because the citric acid will harbor critters over time and "spoil" (probably smell bad and lose effectiveness).

But the point is.... It's a rust converting acid in a gelatinous bulk material to slow evaporation. I believe there are lots and lots and lots of phosphoric acid based materials on the market available at this side of the globe.

My (own untested) suspicion is that I bet the phosphoric based stuff would work better, but is less safe to use and potentially worse for the environment. I suspect the citric acid based stuff is uber-safe and all that. From the list of ingredients, it looks like you could eat it. But that doesn't mean it works better, and in fact, most times the worse something is for you and the environment, the better it works.

Is there some reason people would believe that citric acid based compound would be more effective?