Need a rear bearing spacer!!!

[Zed Head]

Is it a gouge or did he grind one face completely lop-sided?  Might be making more of it than it is.  The dimensions are out there, the two faces just need to be parallel and square to the cylinder.  The bearing races are rigid enough to live with a small gouge, I'd think.

John Coffey has posted a couple or times about just making one from a piece of steel pipe.

You could shorten up what you have, making it square and parallel, then shim it to proper size with a round shim.  It's a simple piece.

Are all three sizes NLA or just one?

MSA probably just takes the orders then has a local machinist make them on a piece basis.  Hence the high cost.  You can do what they do by yourself.  Take the old one and that chart from the FSM to an old-timey machinist and see what happens.

[Zed Head]

2 hours ago, Matthew Abate said:

Motorsport wants $50 each plus shipping.

http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic01a/23-5031R

Can anyone beat that?

 

 Edit: they only have the B version, so I need to find out which one I need from the shop. Actually, I need to get all my parts back and go somewhere else.

 

 

You didn't say what letter you need.  Oliver at zspecialties might have one.  We were just talking about his huge stash of parts.

Looks like he blew up his web site though.  You'll have to call.  https://www.datsunstore.com/

Edited March 22, 2018 by Zed Head

[Matthew Abate]

Not sure which letter yet. I need to retrieve everything in the morning and find out.

 

It’s not the same shop. Right now I have three of the five shops I’ve gone to in my area in my black list.

 

The end basically has been held against a grinder so it has a slice taken out of it that’s about .25-.5 mm deep and maybe 15-20 mm wide. It’s not the entire face that mates to the bearing but it’s not just a nick.

 

From what I can tell Motorsport is selling refurbished originals. They’re charging a core fee.

 

Edit: the reason the guy took a grinder to it is he felt that it was too long and the spindle wasn’t coming all the way through. He thinks the shoulder of the spindle should pass through the bearing so that the copper washer (which is an optional part) sits in the spindle rather than the bearing. I think the entire problem was started by the washer.

They’re also telling me the FSM torque spec of 181# is wrong and the Chilton spec of 22# is right.

 

[Matthew Abate]

Update: all parts retrieved. I will asses them tonight and post a picture of the damage to the spacer. The hubs say B but I haven’t checked to see if the spacers match. Regardless I have one that is messed up.


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[Matthew Abate]

Try these guys. I don't see if its NLA.
Bay Ridge Nissan 532 65th st, Brooklyn, NY 11220 718-238-4776 parts@bayridgenissan.com SPACER-BEARING (43090E4100)

YOUR PRICE     $12.02

NLA. They just haven’t updated their site.

[Mark Maras]

11 hours ago, Zed Head said:

You didn't say what letter you need.  Oliver at zspecialties might have one.  We were just talking about his huge stash of parts.

Looks like he blew up his web site though.  You'll have to call.  https://www.datsunstore.com/

 Oliver's email address is zman@zspecialties.com

[Travel'n Man]

Wish Roger was still around at the Z Barn. We use to have a great source for parts like this......


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[Zed Head]

Click through to Made-to-Order bushings.  Bushings > Drill Bushings > Made-to-Order > Your choice

Might be faster than MSA.  A bit cheaper.  And the exact size that you need.  Drill bushings are hard and durable, meant to resist deformation and wear.

Edit - the tolerance looks wide on the made-to-order bushings.  -0.4 to 0.4 mm.  0.8 range versus .06 range spec. in FSM.  Food for thought though.  They'd probably be in range, but there's a risk.  You could finesse them in with a whetstone. Those FSM specs. aren't well-defined anyway.

https://www.mcmaster.com/#bushings/=1c2xu3g

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Drill_bushing

Edited March 22, 2018 by Zed Head

[zKars]

Even though I can only read about 50% of the text on these threads anymore with the lovely ads that appear so graciously to assist me in retail decisions (which about now are 'buy nothing'), just let me know if you need a "B" spacer when the time comes.

I have never seen an "A" or "C" spacer, so you chances of needing a "B are really high. 

 

[Zed Head]

That makes sense.  They did the same thing with transmission countershaft bearing shims.  Only one size available.  Manufacturing practices keep advancing, probably to where they only make one size and it's always in spec.  Thank you Edward.

[Matthew Abate]

They are type B spacers. You can see the amount of material removed here:

 

 

 

 

[Zed Head]

Normally I'd say not a big deal, the materials will handle a small imperfection.  But, considering the amount of force that the axle nut alone puts on the races and spacer assembly, and the loads during driving, a replacement seems in order.  The races are flexible, only at much higher loads than you'd see in your hand.  You could get abnormal wear on the balls.

Is there a B on it?  Sounds like zKars has you covered.