compression rod?

[sweatybetty]

so, i have the front suspension torn out and almost ready for paint. when i removed the compression rods, this is what i found

the new bushings from energy suspension look like this

my question for those of you who have replaced these parts is this. what kind of washer did you put on the rod between the new bushing and the rubber boot? will too thick of a washer throw the alignment out of whack enough to make a difference?

 

thanks all   sb 

 

[Zed Head]

There's a factory washer that's thicker and more rigid than average, and designed to fit against the step on the rod.  And another to go on the other side of the sandwich.  What you took apart is an aftermarket kit, designed to make the front control arms more stable.  The factory rubber is pretty floppy.  You might be able to get replacements for the spherical pieces and kep using what you have.  If you go with the ES urethane you'll want to only use the front and use factory rubber on the back.  The rod ends tend to break off otherwise, from flex fatigue.

[Zed Head]

http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/suspension/comprod/ball&socket/index.htm

 

[sweatybetty]

thank you both

[sweatybetty]

another question. what keeps the rod centered in the hole in the frame? is the factory rubber molded to do this? or is there something that i am missing? i would think you wouldnt want the rod sliding around in that hole.

thanks all

[zKars]

Good question. There is a central metal tube/sleeve inside the rubbers that the large washers get squeezed together until the washers bottom out on that sleeve. Once tight, the bushing pair are automatically centered on the frame by virtue of both bushings being made of the same stiffness. As you drive, that rod is in compression (accel) or tension (braking) which deforms them somewhat.

Having a poly bushing on the front and a rubber bushing on the back implies that the static position is NOT centered affecting caster somewhat. Take a look at the rubber bushing before and after torque up and see just how much it crushes. 

One note that I brought up before here, the torque spec for the nut on the end is to obtained ONLY once the washers lock up on the central sleeve. There are situations where you might reach the torque spec BEFORE that happens, like dirty threads, very stiff bushings or TC rod not at a neutral position forcing the bushings into an awkward position. 

We had a big thread elsewhere about this where folks were using two nuts to lock them up as they were coming loose. Using a new locknut is important, as well as ensuring you have sleeve clamp down.  

 

 

[siteunseen]

I had to get all the weight off the tc rod to get the torque right by putting a jack under the tire and jacking it all the way up into the fender well. Then the rod was loose enough to get all the bits and pieces on and torqued down.

 

[sweatybetty]

well, i ordered the new parts like what was on there and was hoping they would be here today. apparently the seller didnt ship them yet because he thought i didnt order everything i needed. kind of po'ed about that.