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sweatys rebuild


sweatybetty

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another thing that makes a world of difference in noise, you can see it in the 2nd picture, i used body seam sealer in that gap where the black and red meet. it glues the 2 parts together stopping rattles. i also did this inside the doors between the "crash bar" and outer skin. the doors sound very solid now

Edited by sweatybetty
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another thing that makes a world of difference in noise, you can see it in the 2nd picture, i used body seam sealer in that gap where the black and red meet. it glues the 2 parts together stopping rattles. i also did this inside the doors between the "crash bar" and outer skin. the doors sound very solid now


Does that go on top of primer or under it? I've never applied my own and I won't be painting the car myself, so if I can lay it down after I strip the car, great, otherwise I would have to get the car back from the painter to do it or have them do it for me.
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6 hours ago, Matthew Abate said:

 


Does that go on top of primer or under it? I've never applied my own and I won't be painting the car myself, so if I can lay it down after I strip the car, great, otherwise I would have to get the car back from the painter to do it or have them do it for me.

either way, as long as the surface is clean. that makes for a good bond. i did it after sandblasting, between the epoxy coat and primer.

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getting a little more color on. here is the hatch after a 2nd coat of clear, and cut and buffed. i am getting quite a bit of dust in the clear coat, so i end up sanding down with 1500 then 2000, then rubbing compound and polishing compound. looks very nice

hatch after sanding, cut and buff

DSCN0080.JPG

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installed

DSCN0084.JPG

passengers door ready for the 2nd coat of clear, which just got sprayed tonight.i should have it cut and buffed tomorrow

DSCN0091.JPG

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On 2/5/2017 at 8:15 AM, sweatybetty said:

that is a copper pipe coupling with the brass fittings brazed on. one fitting is for the temperature gauge, and the other controls the electric fans

I'm looking at some from McMaster-Car, it appears they have them in 1-1/4 in which measured to be close to the hose that Im using in my car. 

Part number 

5520k206 on https://www.mcmaster.com/#solder-joint-tube-couplings/=169agse seems to fit the correct size, but it's only rated to 200*f, the thermostat runs 185, and its technically after the radiator, so it seems that it wont see temps, that high.....
 
Any opinion regarding this?
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56 minutes ago, heyitsrama said:

I'm looking at some from McMaster-Car, it appears they have them in 1-1/4 in which measured to be close to the hose that Im using in my car. 

Part number 

5520k206 on https://www.mcmaster.com/#solder-joint-tube-couplings/=169agse seems to fit the correct size, but it's only rated to 200*f, the thermostat runs 185, and its technically after the radiator, so it seems that it wont see temps, that high.....
 
Any opinion regarding this?

i think the 200 degrees is referring to the solder commonly used for household plumbing. i used silver-solder for mine. i cant recall the melting point, but it is WAY above anything your car will ever see

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  • 1 month later...

Warm weather is coming so ive been concentrating on paint before the bugs come back. As of today, all i have left to paint is the cowl and air dam. Ordered a MSA exhaust system today, hoping to have the pig running by the end of next week. Im waiting to put the front end on until the engine is done so i dont scratch the fenders. Here are a few pics

lf fender

DSCN0145.JPG

rf fender

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inspection covers and gas filler

DSCN0152.JPG

headlight scoops

DSCN0153.JPGDSCN0154.JPG

also got the passenger side door (3rd one) painted and hung today. it lines up very nice. glass will go in tomorrow

DSCN0156.JPG

and the rear hatch installed

DSCN0157.JPG

 

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