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240Z Resto - 01/1970 Car

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On 4/9/2016 at 10:19 PM, Gav240z said:

Yeah I can imagine the time + effort involved means they are not cheap to make. How much as spindle pins these days? I think something like $80 a pair now? Maybe you can get them cheaper? But if you can save your pins each time you remove them it would only take a couple of uses to have the tool pay for itself. If you own more than 1 S30Z (some of us are that guilty and suckers for punishment) then the savings are even better...

But I understand not everyone will see it that way.

Spindle Pins are in the region of CDN $32 a piece + rubber and hardware last I ordered. So you're probably right about the $80 mark. With this tool, they came out relatively unscathed and COULD be reused, but part of the reason they're so tough to get out is that the center portion MAY tweaked a little in conjunction with the bushings sleeves having a gorilla grip on either end as well. So replacing them is not a bad decision- though the budget minded may be able to reuse successfully. 

I've been toying with the idea of making some tools up, but I don't quite have access to the lathe right now, so that would increase cost quite a bit- since I made this one on my own time.


To be completely fair- it could be replicated with the same degree of efficacy with some back-to-back welded wheel lug nuts, and high-tensile threaded rod, which can be bought for way cheaper. In fact, you could make 9 of the same tool for the price of 1 piece of 1" ACME rod and 3 ACME gear nuts. The tool could cost about 50 dollars to make, though there are examples already available online. I just happened across this broken vice, so it was a boon for me at the time.


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Small Update:

Car should be ready to start very soon! Reproduction exhaust should be in today.  Need to get one or two small items plated before putting it on. I'll also be painting the Nichira N3300 midpipe with some silver paint instead of leaving it black. I'm just waiting for the MSA exhaust to see what kind of finish it needs to be. I would rather it be close to a "as-equipped" part, rather than "off-the-shelf" NOS part. I think it would look weird having a Silver-Black-Silver exhaust system.

Alternator needs a slight wiring repair before it goes on. It was rebuilt, but the two-terminal brush holder connector seems to have cracked wiring right at the grommet. I should have some extra wiring laying around that is the same colour. I'm missing some small fuel injection clamps- but I'll be using regular ones for now and switching over to a set of plated ones once I get it running.

I was wondering if anyone knows a good source of "OEM Style" Exhaust clamps. Or if there are some clamps that I can buy and mix and match the U-bolt and the clamping bracket to get something that looks like the OEM ones. I can have them plated after I get the car running.

I've also repaired some dents on a gas tank that I took out of the 1971 parts car. Now my main concern is... how the hell does use tank repair sealing epoxy and plug up the FEED line to the fuel pump? It's so tiny and swirly and goes to the baffled side of the tank. The last tank I assisted in sealing was an EFI tank, and thus it did not have that issue.

Any suggestions on these two issues? Gettin' so close!

- Also been thinking what oil to run for initial break-in. I'll probably just use Rotella T dino oil with some WIX napa gold filters- save the japanese blue cans for proper oil change. I have some Zerex G-05 coolant which I tend to lean towards. along with some standard GL4 trans fluid. I will be draining and refilling all oils in short order, as the trans and engine were rebuilt (how well, I'm not sure!)

Edited by Careless

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