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Shaking, back and forth motion at 1st and 2nd gear


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The exact position of the adjustment does not really matter. You will need to change the setting each time you tune up the car. However, if you want to know the current position for use as a baseline you don't need to take the domes off, or anything else for that matter. Simply turn them in carefully and count the turns as you go. As already stated, the car is working - don't mess with it! Go drive it and enjoy it for a change.

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OK, thanks Beermanpete!!! Im sure enjoying! Now i can move forward and install the Gen II Mini Vintage Air evaporator and Sanden 508 compressor. I am still looking for the compressor bracket that bolts in the 4 holes but nobody seems to know which one will fit perfectly to that compressor!

Edited by jalexquijano
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  • 6 months later...
On ‎06‎/‎01‎/‎2015 at 0:01 PM, siteunseen said:

I too think it's possibly in your drivetrain, FWIW.  

 

Maybe take it to a transmission shop and have someone drive it?

I also received a similiar opinión as yours. I do hear a distinct "clunk" when releasing the gas pedal at first gear under 2000 RPM. The back and forth shaking is not present if a delicately step on the gas and lift the pedal softly but you normally dont drive like that. Another user has commented that i should replace the transmission mount as the clunk is Heard and felt  from behind.

Do you agree???? ANyone??

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  • 4 weeks later...
3 hours ago, jalexquijano said:

Airtex 8012S measuring 5 psi at the rear carb! I moved the idle timing from 12 to 15BTDC. Do you think this can affect or damage the engine in someway? Trying to advance a Little bit to see if i get rid of the slight hesitation below 2000 RPMS.

All of the links on SU's that I find say that 5 is too high and might cause problems.  I don't even know exactly how the SU's maintain pressure but spec. is 3.4 psi according to the FSM.  I assume that the mechanical pumps regulate internally, and there is an orifice in the carbs that provides back pressure.  You'll need a pump that regulates pressure internally if you want to continue to use that method.  If you don't, again assuming, you'll have to remove the blockages to allow flow and place a regulator in line, or dead- head the carburetors and replumb them, with a regulator at the T with the return line.  From what I gather, the 240Z's all have a return line so there are lots of options.  You still haven't described clearly how exactly your system is plumbed though.  A regulator won't do you any good unless it's plumbed correctly.

http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/fuel/fp202.htm

Converting to mechanical might be good for you, (like a pond) - 

 

Some good information in this thread from a year and a half ago - 

 

SU Fuel Pressure.PNG

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