73 240Z manual transmission swap to T5

[jblackburn209]

I have a rebuilt T5 from a 1983 280ZX Turbo that I want to put into my 73 240 Z. I have read many of the threads and have a good idea of what I need to do. All I need now is the correct bellhousing and driveline. I have searched for a couple of weeks now and have not found any. Any help finding a source for these would be greatly appreciated.

[zKars]

First welcome to the forum.

I'm pretty sure you don't need to change the bell housing at all. All the ZX trannies fit the early Z's without modification (as far as bolting to the block goes). The bell housing switch thing involves using the later 240sx "C" type transmissions.

The rear crossmember won't bolt in nor will the driveshaft. You need the T5 driveshaft for its front yoke, and your old drive shaft for the diff end flange and a driveline shop to merge thoese two and make something the right length. The rear cross member will need a bit of a welding job to make it bolt to the trans tunnel mounts.

Be sure you take the throwout bearing collar from the T5, and make sure to get a clutch pressure plate and disk for the T5.

Common wisdom here (no personal experience, just parroting) suggests that T5 ain't the best 5 speed choice of all the available options. Reliability and gear ratio's seem to sited in most of the discussions that I read. The Nissan trannies tend to come out on top in most surveys. All that said, if you know where it came from and trust stories of its past life (like mileage), then it will work just fine and likely go forever on a stock 73 engine.

[S30Driver]

You can also get a turbo car (not the 2+2) driveshaft and then the rear flange off the turbo car diff. The bolt pattern is slightly different on the turbo shaft and flange. Then have that driveshaft shortened.

The crossmember can work if it is turned around and modified for width. (cutting & welding)

[jblackburn209]

Thanks for the good advice zKars and S30Driver. I failed to mention that the T5 I have came without the bell housing and of course will not match up to my existing 1973 4 speed bell housing. I have a shop that has the correct crossmember that can be used. I also failed to mention that I am bolting it to an engine that is non-stock. Dyno reading at the rear wheels is 195 hp with existing 4 speed and R180 differential. Just having a hard time finding a bell housing and drive line. I have checked all the regional junkyards and Z sources (between North Idaho, Washington, and Oregon), Craigslist, e-bay, etc. Just thought a post to this site might prove useful.

[EuroDat]

Be sure you take the throwout bearing collar from the T5, and make sure to get a clutch pressure plate and disk for the T5.

Just to add to Jims post. You will also need the flywheel to do this swap. It has a 240mm contact surface instead of the 225mm in the coupes. The 2+2 version also use the 240mm flywheel.

If you go with the coupe clutch remember to use that throwout bearing collar.

Im with Jim on the T5 versus the 71C. Specially if you get the 240SX (S14) with the reverse synchro. Yea there is a number of different versions of the 71C out there.

Seeing you don't have the bell housing, the 71C might be your best option. If you are technically minded, the swap looks more complicated than it is. Using a series 1 driveshaft or shortening yours is a lot easier then getting the turbo one to fit. The turbo driveshaft is not easy to shorten because is diameter reduces just before the yokes.

Tamo3 is swapping a 71C into his 280Z now. You might want to check out his thread.

Goodluck

Chas

Edited August 3, 2014 by EuroDat

[12doplumbing]

I need to remove this darned "cog" (?) from our T5 in order to put the new correct-toothed part in, but I can't seem to get it to budge

I removed the small bolt and keeper washer, then attempted to grab and twist with channel locks behind the threads, but no luck. Heat?

Oh; '72 240 with L28 F54/P90A sitting on my shop bench for aesthetic, sculptural interest as well as anticipation Hell. Seems like every little item; bearing collar length, fork retainer clip, or this speedo housing keeps the project spread out all over my shop in limbo

[12doplumbing]

See this?

It's not shown in the NWC T5 manual, is it? I re-soldered the two connections and wasted time doing something other than searching online for what the f___ it is. Pic 2 here: this is the port for the back up switch, right? Well I guess I better order one...

So the first picture must be a neutral light (another member/electrical genius, Kurk MacKay -- who is making me a wiring harness to go with a MegaSquirt.... Says he believes it's the neutral switch. But I am so easily confused I could've misunderstood him or what question he was answering). Any help double checking these will be appreciated.

[240260280z]

Speedo cog may come out with a bit of penetrating magic (50/50 mix of ATF and acetone) and a twirl with a pipe wrench.

 

Some heat on the aluminum surrounding the cog is another method.

[madkaw]

If I was home I would check for you, but I believe that's right- neutral switch.

Have a DS made , you will be better off.

[Zed Head]

The switches are ID'ed in the FSM.  

 

Second the heat suggestion on the cog housing,  It will soften the o-ring rubber and open the clearance.  You can also tap it in a hair with a soft mallet or block of wood to break it loose, before twisting it out, or levering it out via the notch with a screwdriver.