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Your ideas/input requested for planning a garage

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Just came across something that might be helpful even at this stage in the game. Guy on another forum has a 4 post lift and he installed single tube flourescent lights on the inside rails of the lift, both sides, all the way down. You'd need to be careful when pulling a transmission or something like that, but for aligning cars or doing oil changes, etc, it lights the bottom up pretty damn nicely!

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I would put in a wet bay with a water heater, a dissolved solids filter, a full curtain and dedicated drainage, and seriously consider a downdraft solvent station.

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The forum just ate my reply :( Here is re-do:

Here is the current state:

Trees removed. Just need to get rid of the brush tonight. The tractor comes tomorrow to "grub" then it gets filled next week and settles over the winter.

36'w X 40'd floor, walls and footing goes down in the spring. It will have a 2nd floor and a pie shaped connecting room (mud room/solarium) to the house.

I plan to restore 2 or 3 Z's a year. :)

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HS30 I am putting a large concrete pad and 10' X 20' shed in the back "woods". That should be complete in a few weeks.

I may put something else on the pad that has a "down draft" and maybe even a garage door on the back of the garage to facilitate travel to the special building. It will also have white LED lights on the walls... go figure ;)

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Another shot of the hole to fill.

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My fav.city on the planet so far. (Montreal is a close 2nd). I'll PM you.

It's a nice city i suppose, it is like everything else, you don't see it when you have it, I'm actually on my way out of Copenhagen, building on the country side, half hour drive from CPH

And now for the PM

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Sweet S2000 Phil! I like the Silver/Red combo. Sounds like some grand plans in the works, good luck!

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My garage is about the same size, with a 10X40 back room. It is big enough to fit 8 Z-cars without any room for benches, or 2 '59' Cadillac's with barely enough room for a bench. :)

Bonzi Lon

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I've been busy the last month:

I'm a lumberjack and I'm OK.

Sadly I had to take down my daughter's tree house from 2003.

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The area was grubbed by a small excavator but I ended up bringing a bigger one in to finish. Rates were $70/hr for the small and $150/hr for the bigger one.

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Finishing the crushed stone.

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25'w X 24'd slab with in-floor heat. In this area of Canada, one can build a slab up to this size of 600'sq without having to do a footing and the extra inspections.

The slab is still drying thus the Canuck-like hockey-rink look.

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I have ~ 20' to the property line on the back and 10' on the side so I can easily get cars to the back and store them.... lots of room out of my wonderful wife's view.

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Next steps: Walls and roof.

btw this is a "shed". The garage will go next to the house... practice makes perfect.

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Edited by Blue

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What about insulation under the slab ?

Edited by ChrisZ

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yup. 6 mil vapour barrier and 2" thick plain-Jane white styrofoam insulation (same stuff I used in my house 20 years ago)... works great.

FYI The building suppliers try to push the more expensive denser styrofoam for under the concrete but the white stuff is fine. I had to move a pipe that passed through the basement floor in my house 2 years ago and after punching through , the 18 year old foam was absolutely fab under the slab... dry and thick.

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I was just thinking that heated slab with no insulation would be expensive to heat, i too use the white stuff for my build, much thicker layer, i like to keep the heat inside the house, as for the density, it would be best if it was calculated to take the actual load, but we do have different building codes over here.

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Yes, I think northern Europe and Canada have a common interest in thermally efficient designs.

That foam in you build is very thick! I have only seen foam that thick in floating docks and in boats.

One error that many with in-floor radiate heat do here is to omit a thermal barrier between the heated floor slab and the unheated wall. If the two are connected then the snow will melt 40cm or more from the house!!! :(

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I have 13 inch below the floor, this is the basement, we build so we get close to a "zero energy house"

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Yes, we have that and that's what we are going to get, they also come with gas inside and the bounding edges are with plastic instead of aluminum, heavy as hell.

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Yes plastic is less conductive for sure. I never understood the aluminum spacers and frames in windows.

I recall a thermodynamics class where the prof calculated the ideal glass-to-glass spacing where air's insulating properties gave way to convection.... you are bringing back bad memories of unintuitive partial differential equations.... leave those to Bohr and Brahe :)

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Hey Phil, I'm a contractor.#1 what you think is big enough for a barn/shop 99% of the time is small. building a pole barn type of building will keep cost down, and you can get about an R-30 in the side walls. ceiling, in cold country 18-24 inches of blown insulation, not fiberglass, it also helps to put Mylar bubble type insulation between your trusses stapled to the roof decking, it makes a dramatic difference in heat loss/gain. No sky lights facing south you'll roast in the summer, north side only. radiant heat the only way to fly, put down 2 inch high density foam insulation,then 3/8's pex tubing on 12 inch centers 4 inches of concrete.heat with of a 40-50 gallon water or grater water heater. Ceiling needs to be 2 foot above your highest door. With the radiant heat you will have multiple thermostats set at about 62-64 F. with the thermostats at 5 foot from the floor, any more and you will sweat.

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YOu can't work in a cold garage, grasping cold tools. No matter WHAT I had to sacrifice I'd put in radiant,in-floor heat. Hot water tubes running in the floor. Requires a boiler, and a bit more concrete work.

With radiant heat the rest of the shop can stay cooler while the part your BODY is in contact with, the floor, fEELS warm. the sensation is just incredible. There are no drafts, no smells, just pure comfort.

Ask anyone who's had in-floor heat intheir home or shop. They wouldn't trade it for a lift, for nothing.

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Update. I was too slow and the weather beat me. It is roof tight but I still need to put the metal roof on it. Currently -17C and 1' of snow on the roof.

It is warming up to +6C this evening so I may go up and shovel off the snow. It may go above zero on the weekend so I can have another go at it.

It has in-floor radiant with 2" of foam underneath. I am looking for a propane on-demand water heater that I can mount on the wall.

It is actually a 25'w X 24'd "shed". Once I get the metal roof on and the metal siding, I can call for a building inspection then proceed with insulation.

In the long run it may be a cat kennel.

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Hey Blue,

Great timing having it finished before the first snow flakes fly. Looks awesome from the outside. Post some pictures from the inside.

Here is my man cave. I wish I did not have to share half the space with the boss!! Would kill for a detached garage that would be four times the size of my current garage.

Take care,

Marc

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Nearly ready to move in!

Just need a final inspection, rain gutter, and more grubbing, drains and crushed stone.

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Nice shed ........!!!

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