Carburetor Central
If you have questions about the SU Carburetors, this is where you can find the answers.
Subforums
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1,452 topics in this forum
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I know if them, I know of the yahoo group that he inhabits, but I will be damned if I can find his online store.
Last reply by LeonV, -
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- 27 replies
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I took my Mikuni 44's apart this weekend to gasket match the cannon intake. The car now backfires quite badly out of both the carbs and the tailpipe while idling, downshifting and cruising. The AFR's are 11-12 while backfiring and the car pulls hard at WOT where the AFR is in the 12's . The plugs seem normal, timing looks normal, float bowl levels look normal and compression is 170+/-5 across all cylinders. The engine is a Rebello L30. The carbs have 39mm chokes, 150 fuels, 180 airs and deleted balance tube on the intake. Any advice as to how I should diagnose the problem? Could this be caused by a vacuum leak?
Last reply by steve91tt, -
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Been dealing with the excitement (aka frustration) of carburation the past few days. It got hot here in the North Bay Area and I started noticing very rough idling to the point of dying at stops with my '72 240z (L24). I was also getting strange lag every 15 seconds or so, more at some rpms than others and some rough backfiring. I thought it might be a cylinder misfiring or bad plugs at first. Beyond being in contact with Bud from Redline Weber about the sad state of my current 32/36 linkage setup and making the included notes regarding mixture and idle settings. Then, this afternoon my car was running significantly smoother in all gears through the full rpm range abo…
Last reply by zKars, -
- 14 replies
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My nice running '72 with 115k would not start one morning. Fuel was not getting to the carbs (SU-type) and the there was no fuel in the filter. Replaced the fuel pump without effect. Checked the fuel line and it was clear and unplugged. The engine starts with "starter fluid" but is not drawing fuel from the tank. I tried priming the system by adding fuel above the filter. This fuel drained OK to the tank. Carbs are "dry." My service manuals do not have a next step. Any ideas to try next? Thank you, RB
Last reply by formula c's 240z, -
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Can I take a set of SU's off of a well running L24 and put the on an L28 with 10:1 compression and expect to get the engine running, even roughly? Thanks Chris
Last reply by beermanpete, -
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Installing a new FP gauge. Anyone know if the Japanese Mechanical fuel pump has BSPT threads? Pulled the outlet off an old Nikki pump - a 1/8" NPT seems to fit ok but it's a bad place for a leak. My next pump might be a Carter. Can get BSPT if it needs it. Also, my hose to the gauge has steel crimped fittings with yellow plating. I read bad things about steel/brass corrosion (the new tee is brass). Need to put a 90 deg. elbow between the tee and the hose fitting. Would aluminum be better than brass (to separate the brass from the steel)? The hose is 3000 psi nitrile with polyester braid, steel braid, and polyester braid cover. Overkill I know, but I hope the tech …
Last reply by Stanley, -
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Hello everyone, I saw this back panel of an air cleaner box on ebay and noticed it had a choke cable holder arm that is not on my Z. I was wondering if all Zs had them or if it was year specific? I did a quick check and my '72 didn't seem to have a mounting bracket for it. Any help is appreciated, thanks!
Last reply by siteunseen, -
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I flipped the switch over today. Seems much more responsive to my foot against the gas pedal.
Last reply by fuzze, -
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Please give me some direction,http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/help-me/49271-engine-will-only-run-above-4000-rpm-carbs-timing.html Thanks, Chris
Last reply by grannyknot, -
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- 2k views
Got some rubber caps to temporarily plug the pipes, pulled the short hose off the lower thermostat housing. Now, my coolant is new and green, but what came out was a few drops of brownish corrosion. The 1/2" hose barb was corroded. Pulled the other end of the hose off at the intake manifold. That hose barb was totally plugged with some grey-green gunk. Looks like no water flowed through there for a long time. I'm guessing the gunk is stop leak put in by the PO (flushed the engine three times when I got the car a few years ago, to get rid of the gunk) , plus coolant residue and rust. Then I cut the short rubber hose that connects the rear of the intake manifold to the …
Last reply by Stanley, -
- 11 replies
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Okay we run air filters, and fuel filters all day long. WE clean them and we obsess over them. But the part that I baffles me is why do we kill ourselves when the front of the Weber has a 12mm hole in it that lets air in for the idle circuit to work. THat is unfiltered air. WE do not even try to filter that air. When I recently removed my webers and cleaned them there was DIRT in the very bottom of the bowls. DIRT. I removed it and all is well, but why do we never make an effort to filter the air coming in that huge gaping hole.
Last reply by Zedyone_kenobi, -
- 12 replies
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Throttle control on my car is difficult at low rpm (off-throttle to on-throttle transitions). It's digital; on or off. I've lubricated all of the ball joints and linkages at the carbs with white grease to no avail. This weekend I'm going to replace the throttle boot so I figure this is a good opportunity to ensure that the linkage is set-up and adjusted correctly. I've consulted the FSM and have found the following info: 1. Adjust the Tension Rod on the engine side of the firewall between the bell crank and Torsion Shaft to 7-3/16" 2. Adjust the interior Tension Rod between the throttle and bell crank to 4-1/4" Is there any tribal knowledge beyond this that might be usefu…
Last reply by Mikes Z car,
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