Fuel Injection
Posts about fuel injection systems and related topics.
748 topics in this forum
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OK Gang; I have power (with key on to the #1 pin of my ECU. I have a new engine with zero miles on it. It ran for about 4 minutes & then died, never to restart. I have fuel, spark, and have swapped out the Transistor box,coil,ECU,thermo time switch,pickup eye (in distributor), and checked the continuity of the negative side of the coil to the ECU. This shows a 5.9 voltage & the rest of the active terminals show a 3.89 Voltage.There is juice at both sides of the injectors. I still have no NOID light blinking, so now what???
Last reply by siteunseen, -
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I'm starting this thread as a bit of a placeholder, moving this issue out of my old exhaust manifold/status thread since it's likely I'll need help. The background is listed in the exhaust thread, so I'll keep it focused on the EFI here. Bottom line, car hasn't run in a year, head was pulled and tanked, and the car is back together now. The car will crank easily but not fire. Injectors show 12V but no pulse via NOID light. Zed Head has helped give me some places to start - I'll likely only have access to the car over the weekend, so I can't just run out and mess around, as much as I'd like to. I'll add to this thread as time goes on with status and results. If anyo…
Last reply by kelley0352@att.net, -
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Hello all, I'm struggling with a recently acquired, stock 78 280Z running very rich. As in 13-15 mpg combined, and all plugs are getting carbon fouled to the point one or more start misfiring completely. I changed the previous owners BPR6ES with fresh BPR5ES plugs, but after around 1000 miles I could again hear the 5 cylinder "brrt-brrt-brrt" and soon after the 4 cylinder "cho-cho-cho" ? I've been troubleshooting using my multimeter and the 1980 EFI bible, it's all well within specs except for the test 1- (3b) - Air flow meter resistance #2 (ECU pins #7 and #8). It gave a reading of 360 ohms, well above the 150 suggested by the bible. I pulled the AFM to test it…
Last reply by Sigurd, -
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Any possible way to clear a clogged screen without cutting a hole in the tank? I was thinking maybe a metal rod might be able to poke holes in the screen but lots of angles from what I can tell Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Last reply by siteunseen, -
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Google says no one has posted anything about the Pro TunerZ intake manifold/fuel rail + throttle body kits on this forum, so I thought I would, and also ask what people think about these vs the Jenvey ITB setup. Pro TunerZ L-Series Intake Manifold /Fuel Rail / 75mm Throttle Body Regular price - $799.00 (plus injectors) vs Jenvey Nissan Datsun L28 Throttle Body Kit Regular price - £1,373.00 The Pro TunerZ kit comes in 90mm, too. I am going to run SUs for a while but I’m curious about the FE options. I know the factory NA FE systems won’t work with my cam, so it seems like these are what I’m left with.
Last reply by Zed Head, -
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Hello all, a couple months ago I purchased a 1978 280z that had been sitting since 2001. I started by cleaning and coating the inside of the tank, installed a new fuel pump, installed an extra fuel filter near the tank, and replaced the fuel filter in the engine bay. I also have a new fuel relay, efi wiring harness, ecu, and a new 3 terminal dropping resistor (the 5 terminal and new 3 terminal resistors tested good with a multi meter). I also replaced the spark plugs, spark plug wires, and the pickup wire from the coil to the ditributor. When I try to start the car with starting fluid it will run but only when there is starting fluid present. I'm sure this means that I…
Last reply by SadZGuy, -
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After 20+ years of sitting, got the z running last summer. After driving a few times, the car began cutting/stalling when giving it a heavy throttle press while driving. The cutting has no relation to speed or rpm, but more the load/stress the engine is under (acceleration/hills). Last fall, we found the car would drop about 10 psi of fuel pressure before cutting out. After this past winter, we have started by replacing all of the rubber fuel lines from the tank to the engine, along with replacing the fuel filter. We cut open the filter and did not find any noticeable contaminants. We had one more successful small drive where we could really get on it, only for a s…
Last reply by Zed Head, -
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Hi All, I'm brand new to this club/forum, but have found a lot of value in it over the last few months. My dad, son and I started a project car a few months ago. It is a car we bought from a kid who took it apart and couldn't figure out how to put it back together. I think we're 99% of the way getting it back together and running, but we're struggling with an EFI issue. This is a very long post, but hopefully that helps rule out some of the initial suggestions guys have and drill into the real issue quick. Just to answer the standard questions: We have fuel to the rail and can hear the fuel pump running. We have verified spark. We …
Last reply by Lenbo211, -
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Been trying to tune the car. Idles really well. Seemed gutless on the road though. Pulled injector connectors one by one and each one made it stumble, sans #6 cylinder. Switched the #5 and # 6 connectors and still with #6 injector disconnected did not make engine stumble. Interestingly, with the #6 connector on #5 injector, it idled fine until disconnected, then stumbled. I figured it was the #6 injector (a new to me rebuilt one). Bench tested fine with 9 volt battery, sprayed carb cleaner really well. So, now I think it's cleaned out, reinstall. In my mind the #6 injector connector is good because it fires the #5 injector and the #6 injector obviously sprays when vo…
Last reply by Roblaw, -
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Just beginning to resurrect the rear portion of the fuel system. Working with the great info from this site on the fuel damper. Hopefully we will track one down. Is the OEM pump the way to go for a stock EFI engine or will an aftermarket unit do the job? Huge price differences. O'Reilly offers their IMPORT DIRECT brand that appears similar in size and design with correct size inlet and outlet sizes and 2 terminals. Most of the other aftermarket units seem to be "CAN MAKE IT FIT" varieties with several fittings, rubber cushions, etc. Would it be wise to install a fuel filter between the tank and pump? Any suggestions on an inline filter with 1/2" barbs? What is th…
Last reply by One Way, -
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I am looking for a rebuild kit for my 1972 Z car mechanical fuel pump. The original equipment model is a Kyosandenki. i am trying to keep the original unit and do not want to go to an electric pump. There are a number of replacement options but i want to rebuild this one. Have checked all the sources i can think of without success so far. Wondering if i'm on a fools errand. Any leads would be greatly appreciated.
Last reply by swflaz, -
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looks like I may have to find one of these for messing with on my next trip to the JY, old Benz. For my trip on the Alaska highway... see #4 I don't know if my ECU is wired up for a connection to pin 12 wirign diagram.pdf
Last reply by SoCalJim,
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