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I've had one of those in my toolbox for years and, yes, it does work. However, if the base of the nut is flush with face of the part it secures, the chisel point will tend to climb up the side of the nut when you start applying torque to the drive bolt. That means that part of the upper part of the nut gets split first, while the lower part hasn't quite separated. If you're lucky the nut will pop, even though it hasn't been completely split. Remember that you'll need adequate clearance in all directions to make the splitter fit, as well as enough room to get a wrench or socket on the drive bolt. That makes the splitter useless for recessed or restricted-access nuts. For example, it'll work great on the top nut on the front anti-roll bar link, but it won't work for the nuts used in some locations to secure the intake/exhaust manifold.

Just make sure that the block-off strategy (whatever it might be) used at the Y-connection on the other side of the engine is sound and secure. For example...

Need both sides

If the ball wears out it can come out of the sleeve and make the car completely uncontrollable, never seen that happen in reality? Over here in the Netherlands we have strict rules about them, over 1mm play (around that) means new baljoints! It's just for safety.. but hey in the Usa.. no problem offcourse..

Location and price of the turbo engine

Hi SpeedRoo Please post some photos when you are done so we can see how they turn out.

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Awesome, thank you!

Perfect thank you guys for confirming that for me. Just on the topic of "new" systems and "old" systems I'm currently limited to the Legalis R exhaust pipes product number 750-15414 from fujitsubo themselves and the super Ex headers (510-15037) just to make sure these are the ones that would fit as I didn't know there were older or newer version of the exhaust. see the images for reference

Still don't know what's wrong with it? ;-) Every (good) carparts shop has them!

That was me that posted that photo to show him how a cracked or broken guide could cause an oil problem on one cylinder.

You just previously posted a pic of what you think is a valve guide.

Thanks @Patcon and @Zed Head for answering. I have stripped both joints down, they are the early 11mm type. I have lapped in the ball section to the parts it mates with using valve grinding paste, polished everything up with a brass wire wheel and reassembled. Will paint it in black satin as per original and grease up before removing the grease nipple and fitting the original plug @zspert mentioned should be in place.

I would say yes, if it's not sloppy

I didnt posted any guide. Lets do a leak down test first.

I’m not sure that’s a pic of a valve guide you posted.

I apologize to @Sean Dezart You had bad contact information.

Or...don't get in traffic jams. I don't with my '72 just early morning weekend drives on the side streets. This 240z is surely not your daily driver. You still have that Volkswagen you had on pelicanparts.com?

I guess after reading this, i believe it's time for me to find a compressor and do a leak down test properly as last resort before opening the engine.

I have no idea what you are talking about, there is no way the ball joint can come apart, it is a enclosed joint. The nut would have to shear off the shaft but even then there would be no catastrophic failure. How can you say someone's life ends if this happens? My question was if I should keep using the original balljoint if it meets all of Nissan's tolerances as @Zed Head said.

Looks like the NA 280ZX engine might be 79 or 80. Can't see the cylinder head temperature sensor. But that's USA only, seller might be in Canada or Europe or Australia. N42 block, N47 head, probably. They all look complete. Even the fan belts and motor mounts are still attached. Shipping could be expensive.

Are you kidding? This place is full of nuts.

I ordered one of these plates for one of my ashtrays that was missing one, very nice piece. Quite close to the OEM unit, the only difference I could see is the reproduction is a flat piece, whereas the OEM slotted plate has a small rounded lip around the edge, at least compared to my other ashtray. Both ashtrays are from mid-1971 cars, in that transition period between original series 1 cars and later ones, if that matters. Fitment-wise, the "blade" part sits a little bit lower than the OEM unit per the attached pictures, but overall I'm very happy with the replacement. My ashtray is also missing the spring clip on the outside that I need to figure out now, along with finding a replacement for the pitted chrome rings around the lighter hole. Thanks @Chris Holt for your efforts!

I didnt realize that this site had such a large peanut gallery.

What year and/or head casting is on the turbo engine?