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some new updates on my ignition woes and HEI module upgrade. Tested resistances on anything I currently have knowledge of. Near as I can tell, everything is as it should be. I tested both coils that I have using the method listed in the video below. I'm a sucker for detailed documentation and I had a hard time following some of the posts I found. So hopefully this will help others. The initial test was to test the resistance of the tester itself and it turns out mine needs a little recalibration. Not a huge deal as I understand that I just need to subtract the value from the readings that I take. It turns out that I am off by 1.6 ohms. It is a 30 year old meter though that I inherited from my dad. The readings on the new coil. 3.1 ohm (1.5ohm corrected) between the + and - terminals and 11,280 ohms between the positive and center. I purchased this (amazon) coil. It is suppose to be a stock replacement. Pretty similar readings on the old coil. I kinda figured the old was was good, but meh, why not replace it just in case. 2.2 ohm (.6 ohm corrected) between the + and - terminals and 14,450 ohms between the positive and center. Also tested resistance on the pickup coil in the distributor and it reads about 675 ohms. According to this post by Zedhead it should read around 720ohms. I feel like this reading is acceptable. I checked the voltage to the positive side of the coil with the ignition on (white w/ black stripe) as well as suggested by Fastwoman in this post. As well as the battery itself which is new but i have to get a charger on it. The voltages with the ignition on and off were practically identical. With that aside, im now looking into the wiring for the new HEI module. There are tons of articles on this, but it seemed hard for me to find the info I needed, which was wiring the module. Nearly all the posts had the basics, but there was a lot of discussion about using/not using the block resistor and/or a different coil. Couple that with the myriad of wiring diagrams I ran into. It was hard to determine what was proper. At the moment I am attempting to use a stock coil with a HEI module. Here are just a few of the discussions I looked at. GM HEI Module Install by Scanf Fitting a HEI Module in a Transistor Ignition Unit 1977 280z This was the most promising diagram I could find as listed in the second link. My confusion seems to be around what I have vs what is shown here. This diagram is also identical to what I have in the FSM One issue I have with the FSM is that the wire colors don't match. But I am also not 100% this is the original wire loom yet. or maybe Im just not smart enough to decern what the wire color short hand is. Could it be possible that my condenser is on the wrong terminal. Im hesitant to just start moving and trying different wire combinations without some confidence that what I am doing is correct with the fear of making matters worse. Below is what I tried for the ignition module wiring last week. As I am writing this post I just noticed that I have the positive and negative wires backwards. If I am not mistaken, I still should be able to get some kind of spark out of it. There is another issue I'm concerned with. See more below. So now I know that the coil wires are backwards. but my other concern is weather or not I need to run the wires through the block resistor. I feel like by writing this post and working through my explanation, I should be. Instead of wiring the new module directly to the coil as shown in the following diagram that is listed in first link. (also happens to be the same post listed in the knowledge base). I should be unmodifying the existing wiring and attaching the leads to the corresponding terminals on the block resistor as shown below. Assuming I am correct, Now the only unresolved issue is where the condenser is suppose to be. According to the FSM its suppose to be connected to the center terminal? How is my logic so far?

I purchased a seat foam kit for my 1972 240z awhile back and find it to be too stiff. Has anyone trimmed the foam to make it more comfortable and plush. I was thinking of taking about removing about 1 in from the seating area so that you will sit down in the seat more. What techniques have been used to trim this foam.

Here's a good read on what you're doing. You might read something helpful.

Is that Rick Springfield's brother?

Look between 1st and 2nd spark plugs to see what head you have. Should be an E88 or N42, maybe N47? That will tell us what exhaust port shape you have and whether or not you have the injector notches. If it's an E88 you can use the 240 gasket. Fel-Pro has a universal diamond shape exhaust manifold gasket but it has the injector notches too. From what I remember it will work with carbs but I've never used one so maybe someone can tell us? If it's the OE E88 I would use the right gasket with round intake holes and square exhaust ports. I bought mine through Nissan dealership but zcardepot.com has them too.

Well done! Congratulations from another OO.🎉

Hi: We are working on a family '74 260Z project, and finally about to pull the L28 engine with the cracked block out of the car and replace it with another L28. The donor engine had fuel injection, but we are going to replace it with the dual-SU carb setup from the old engine. Someone told me a while back to use a specific set of manifold gaskets in this swap, and I feel like they said it was from an earlier engine, but I have now lost that piece of advice and just wanting to hear from some of you folks who know better than me before I order anything. Check this short video? Thanks in advance! Michael Project Z ICT

Congrats and keep going! All the best to you and your "Z"

Put on your party hats and toot your horns. Join me in celebrating the 54th Anniversary of the day I bought my 1971 240Z. Today, it sits in my driveway proudly showing its age. Unfortunately, I'm also showing my age and have a little more trouble getting in and out of it and working the pedals than I did in 1971. Great car, great fun, 54 years of great road adventures!

Thanks Captain! This is more the info I was looking for. I guess I will be able to verify once my assortment of plugs arrive from Mcmaster.

👍

KYB is pretty specific about using no oil, but many people (including me) defy that recommendation and use some anyway. Since you aren't using the oil primarily for lubrication, but instead, more for rust prevention, I would recommend an R&O oil. That means "Rust and Oxidation". R&O oils have additives intended to minimize R&O. Here's a couple links for info: https://www.valvolineglobal.com/en/r-and-o-oils/ https://www.phillips66lubricants.com/product/multipurpose-r-o-oil-mining/

Do you have any more info for this? Where did you see it?

I believe that all the tapered fittings are BPT. Probably dictated by world manufacturing climate at the time. Some of the BPT and their respective NPT counterparts are different enough to easily tell the difference, and some of them are really similar. For example, with some thread sealant, it usually seals if you stuff a 1/8 NPT plug into a hole threaded for 1/8 BPT. But, I think the BPT is correct. There also does exist some locations where a straight thread was used (temp gauge sender unit for example), but I've found them to be straight up metric thread, not BSPP.

I offer two different versions of my conversion bell housings to do the reverse tilt. One for the CD009 and one for the TL70. Most of the people that buy my head end up tilting them so I offer the bell housings to assist in that.

I'm also planning on removing the water tubes that run through the intake manifold. Are these BSPT as well? I'll find out soon enough, I suppose.

Did you read my post?

You will be quite supposed on how easily the bspt plugs thread in. You will know right away.

Sean will want to talk to you personally wanting to know what you are working with before he ships you one of his headers.

Now THAT is the info. I was looking for! THANK-YOU!

Ok, I got the race-sport header and can confirm that it will not clear the oil pan with the heatshield. I of course learned this after the engine was in the car and was not about to remove it so I rolled up under the car with a Dremel and cutting wheel to cut the heatshield off. Once that was done the header fit just fine. Hope this helps keep you from being covered in sparks cutting the heat shield off after installation like I was. :)

You can get them for a 4-wheeler at your local motorcycle shop. They have those metal bands that work great instead of the e-bay ones that send you zip-ties.

I could have waited, much longer!