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Here's another site I've used before: https://www.nissanparts.cc/search?search_str=39628-E4100

There isn't a clickable link. NissanPartsDeal.com might be a better choice: https://www.nissanpartsdeal.com/parts/nissan-bolt-driveshaft~39628-e4100.html

Clean the turkey off and cut the seats up. I used one on my boat seats years ago.

I've seen people use an electric knife for cutting foam. I've not tried it, but it looked like it worked well.

Automotive upholster... I think the best tool for cutting foam is a hotwire cutter but that isn't for the faint of heart.

I swapped the seats in my 12/70 car for some seats I scored from a 77 280Z. I did the new foam from MSA and also did leather from Interior Innovation. The big reason was so I could have the extended tilt forward and back like I had in my 73 240Z. This makes access to the tools which are on the floor behind the seats in the early cars before they did the tool bins in the rear deck floor. When I was done I did find that I sat maybe an inch or so higher but I'm now used to it and I can see a little further down the hood. I'm only about 5'9" so I have no issue with my head clearance to the roof. Bottom line is I'm pleased with the swap and would do it again.

Has anybody gone on this website Vintage Datsun and Nissan parts and tried to purchase something recently. They have parts listed but no way to add them to my cart. I've sent them 3 emails since Sunday. No response.

Both the original tensioner and the new one have rubber type washers between the tensioner pad and it's housing.

Yes, I set mine as tight as possible end of the slot. My slot is on the top side pivots from the bottom. My original bolt had a flat washer to cover the slot. The oil Slinger is sitting in position same as your picture. I'm going to attempt to put the cover on today without removing the oil pan. Not sure if that's possible but I'm going to give it a whirl.

I made mine as tight as I could on the slack side, the one that curves. I pushed the tensioner in all the way and put a zip-tye on it then pushed the curved guide as tight as I could and tightened it down. For some reason I'm thinking there's a white plastic washer that goes on the tensioner between the housing and the pad but it's not visible in my picture. Maybe you can confirm that and don't forget the oil slinger that goes on the crank nose.

The timing chain Guide bar has a slot for adjusting tension. Is there an ideal tension to Set the guide at?

I completely agree that the quality of stainless steel makes a big difference, especially when it comes to durability. I’ve been researching different types of stainless steel for car parts, and I wanted to share a helpful resource. If you're interested in learning more about stainless steel, its types, and how it can affect the longevity of car parts, feel free to check out my website: [Stainless Steel ].

Seek and ye shall find! I was able to find it and jumper the connection. It was really burried at the back. For others coming to this thread, when looking at the two wire bundles from the passenger side it's connected to the one on the right. It splits off from that. (see pic with finger pointing to it) Just grab the smaller taped up bit coming off it and start pulling. The Nismo pump is a bit noisier than I'd like but I'm really happy none the less. Initial pressure on start up is around 6psi and then once it warmed up it dropped to 4 to 4.5psi. I've moved the red wire from the + side of the coil to the ballast and it runs. But, I've currently got a intermittent misfire on two cylinders. Number 2 and 5. I found them by attaching the timing light plug wire connector to them and the light flash wasn't consistent. I've ordered new NGK plug wires, plugs, cap and rotor. I'm not sure of the cap and rotor though. I went ahead and assumed they're for an L28 though I could be wrong. How can I identify the difference between a L24 distributor and one for an L28? I'm guessing they're not identical. I know the 240Z had points and the 280Z didn't. As the car has a L28 from 2000 I'm assuming they also threw in a later distributor with the Pertronix. I pulled the plugs and they were really sooty. I cleaned them with a wire brush and that didn't really help. I'm wondering if it's my ignition or if I'm just running super rich. Both of those are on the most direct line from the carbs and I'm assuming would be getting a more fuel than the other cylinders to their sides. Brakes also need to be fully bled as I've installed the 8.5" booster upgrade from JDM-Car-Parts and new master cylinder as well. So it drives and stops and can be driven around a parking lot or paint shop if need be.

OK. Just got the last of the plugs in. I like the M16 x 1.5 low headed plugs to fill the inside ports of the intake when one has removed the water heating. Purchased them from Belmetric.

I was thinking on buying that msa kit but now you are mentioning a problem with the molded seat!

I really appreciate that thank you. I was certain I did everything right I just didn't get to number (11) eleven. I saw your 2019 post and your mathematical computations Cheers

Now get some sleep. 🙂

And the magic number is 11 rotations of the cam, or 22 rotations of the crank. https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/62752-bright-links-on-timing-chain-line-up-every-11-rotations/

The timing chain has the two-silver links and the top sprocket & the bottom of sprocket has little marks on them, and they need to line up, and I believe there's 42 links in between those two points. I did that & was 100 percent certain I was on top dead center # 1 and the crank wood drift key was pointing up; I assembled the new Sprockets guides and tensioner. One of the books I read said to rotate the motor two times making sure nothing's hitting which I rotated it multiple times got it back to top dead center, but I never did get my two-silver chain links to line up the way it did when I set it up originally. My guess is that's normal, but my intuition is confusing my thought process at the moment. Anybody can help me out so I can sleep tonight that would be appreciated.

Well, Here I am, a year late, but better late than never! I paid $3,000.00 for my all original, 100,000 mile, 12/70, 1971 240Z in 2006.

NECROPOST ALERT!!!!!!!!! A broken hi- lo beam switch housing circuit board CAN be repaired so it will work correctly without the switch butterfly moving out of position between switch plunger detents. One just needs a steady hand and more importantly, a command of various epoxies and repairing compounds available retail to ascertain what is most apropos for your situation. Also, depending on the severity of the circuit board damage, the repair may necessitate making the circuit board unremovable from the housing. It's a Datsun. there is always a way...

Between Iran and Saudi Arabia

Nice looking car colinc! Where is Bahrain located?

Sold my white on red 72 240 last year to a buyer who shipped it to Bahrain. Here is a video he sent me of the car at a show (strange venue). I definitely miss her. c6a4b54a-a199-4edd-9f10-7b558fc292eb.mov