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In other words, real people are controlling the chatbots. Things will probably get weird when they figure out to set the chatbots free to "converse" at will on these forums, without a handler. Or, conspiracy theory, Mike is using the forum to train chatbots, or is renting the forum out to a chatbot developer. You never know. I've seen many job advertisements for positions to train chatbots. Hard to really understand what the long-term goal is.

They are proliferating like cancer out there. Metastasizing. WhatIs27 of the best large language models in 2025Large language models are driving AI hype in 2025. Learn which ones to follow.

I don't think that these are "bots". I think that they are real people using one of the large language model programs, like ChatGPT. Testing them out to see if they can sound like real people. I don't think that a bot would edit its post. Training tip - "cracks from the inside" and polishing away a film around the edges is nonsense. And it listed a 240Z as its car but talks about a 260Z. That's clever attempt but it's a sign of not quite right. As far as deleting them, it might be best to keep our enemies close. We need to see how these manipulative tools develop. Be ready.

My mirrors on my old 260z were in the same condition. If the glass is simply cloudy or has a film around the edges, try gently polishing it with glass polish or even toothpaste on a microfiber cloth—it helps remove minor cloudiness. But if there are cracks from the inside, it's best to look for a replacement—sometimes you can find original mirror elements without the housing on eBay or in Datsun enthusiast groups.

I actually have one of these original ones on my other tool wall (See top left), But I realized there are various different versions for different engines The two missing ones have each a different part number. There was one included in the set (not shown in the picture) but that again was not an original Kent-Moore tool, but a 3rd party product (Hazet or so). Not bad, but I'm trying to fill my wall with the original stuff :-)

My early wiring diagram shows a red wire coming off the accessory relay connected to that blue wire. So I'm thinking they might have changed colors at the bullet connector. They did some weird stuff like that on the early cars. Next time I have my HVAC panel off, I'll take a look, but it might be a couple days.

I used #4 gauge cable. Bought a 60 inch length off ebay with 5/16 lug on one end and 3/8 on the other. Cut it in half* to make two cables. Was cheapest that way. I don't know if this is the exact vendor I used or not, but here's an example: https://www.ebay.com/itm/141679228250 Today's price for the cable(s) is about $16, and the military lugs were $10. So my out of pocket for my two original-ish looking cables was $26 for the pair. *After having been through this once, I would skew the cut point maybe two inches towards the positive side. In other words, I would steal two inches of cable from the negative and add that length to the positive making the positive four inches longer than the negative.

It may well be, but this is a homemade example. The correct tool follows the same rough design, the "cut-out" on the board show the shape and has provision to fit a 3/8 or 1/2 socket drive. The was one on Yahoo auctions a week or two ago...

It should be a wire coming off the Accessory Relay. In the 73, it's a blue wire. YMMV according to discussions I've seen on this board in the past. Look at where the Accessory Relay plugs into the wiring harness. One of those wires should be going to the center stack with a bullet connector.

It sounds like it. What head, compression ratio, fuel and ignition advance.

Found out last week the previous owner of my 280z lied and both frame rails are rusted out, also the rear suspension sits crooked under the car. The rust can be easily repaired but costs a lot of money but the suspension issue is likely a twisted or bent body. All in all the wife isn’t happy with the extra costs but she knows I won’t sell the car.

Im experiencing a ratting noise when accelerating in 3rd gear on my 72 240z. Is my timing too advance?

Lol.. that's a good one

Yes, a very near solution! More lathe envy...

I’ve seen this mentioned here before on the cable length. Reverse left to right will give you more cable length. You will have to do some engineering on the hangers.

@captainobvious Nice work Bruce, What gauge cable did you use?

@SteveJ

My battery cables? I was poking around online and discovered these things called "military battery terminals". Sometimes also called "Marine". The neat part is the basic shape is similar to the OEM lugs, so on a whim, I bought a cheap set off Amazon. So the shape is similar to OEM, but they use a bolt/nut to hold a cable onto the lug. They look like this: Then I removed the original bolt and threaded the hole that the bolt goes through. My first experience tapping lead. Went OK and I learned some about the process. 1) Easiest if you don't have to reverse the tap, and if you DO reverse the tap, do it often, like every half turn or so. 2) It's much easier on a (shallow) through hole because you don't have to reverse the tap, just run the tap all the way through. If the part you're tapping isn't shallow enough to do in one pass without packing the flutes and binding, then you're going to have to reverse the tap, which is a PITA because you have to do it so often. So, all that said... I took the bolt out and tapped the hole: Then I made a brass threaded insert on the lathe: I bought a length of battery wire off ebay. Came with lugs crimped on both ends. I got 5/16 hole on one end and 3/8 on the other. Cut that piece of wire in half (so now I have two lengths with different holes on the ends. Larger for the starter mounting bolt, and smaller for the starter solenoid connection. Stripped back the insulation on the ends, and inserted the cable strands into the brass piece I made: I used a small torch to solder the cable into the threaded insert: Looks like this after sodering: Screwed the threaded brass into the lead lug, and a completely unprofitable amount of time later, I have this: It's not OEM or one of the aftermarket replicas, but it cost a grand total of maybe thirty bucks in parts*. *And at least six hundred dollars in unrealized labor cost. Hahahaha!!!

Looks like it may just be taped off and not used

Looked hard through my pictures and I saw the wire but no shot of where it went.

Yes on the White/Red. Through the hole in the back, attach to the screw lug in the middle right.

Cody fixed the blower motor today. The cage was binding on the back of the heater box What does the blue wire from the blower fan plug go to? Cody didn't find it on the wiring diagram

320 In the tunnel there is a threaded rod that attaches the cable yoke to the handle. There are actually two threaded connections if you need it. You need to thread it out to get enough slack. Then you can adjust it to where it holds in about 5 or 6 clicks Datsun Z Hand Brake & Hand Brake Cable#20 and #11 both have threads and locknuts

I have these two wires hanging in close proximity to the connectors that attach to the 6-lead plugs coming out of the fuse box - a thick white/red and a "normal" white (that had been covered by a black sleeve. Because of the proximity, I'm confident that the white wire connects with the white wire coming out of the left side bundle from the fuse box and services the horn circuit. I think I have a good idea of where the white/red wire goes but want confirmation from one of our electrical gurus. Because it is finished with a lug, it is supposed to be held on somewhere with a screw or bolt and I think that place is the metal block located around 3 o'clock on the MSA fuse box. On my other '72 that has the OEM fuse box, the white/red wire disappears underneath the box and I haven't torn things apart to see exactly where it attaches. Can someone verify that this white/red wire does indeed go on the screw mount inside the MSA fuse box?