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I am about to start on the task of adjusting the profile my Hitachi SU needles (I have SM needles installed). I read this thread in preparation: https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/59153-modified-su-carb-needles-for-l28/ @240260280 has detailed knowledge on the subject which is impressive! I wish I had the tools and knowledge to do what he knows should be done. Instead, I am thinking about rigging up a camera to record a video of the piston movement under certain real world scenarios. For that recording, I am thinking of putting black marker lines on the piston that equate to the station positions on the needle. For the real world scenarios, I would like to record a series of various part throttle applications. I am hopeful that I can locate a specific range of the needle that will need to be modified. Very generally, I believe I have good AFRs at idle, and cruise (at 50 mph for example), and at wide open throttle. On the other hand, I have lean or very lean conditions at part throttle and during closed throttle deceleration (accompanied by popping in the exhaust). I will be making some more AFR reference runs before I attempt to modify the needles to confirm. But then, I am hoping to record the videos, and remove a miniscule amount of material from the "pick up" needle stations. The segment of the needle I need to modify should be confirmed by reviewing the video. Anyone have additional recommendations or thoughts?

Yes. The first time this happened I didnt notice it and one of the valve stems actually split, in my garage. So I adjusted all the teeth, got them super tight, but still spin. The after market ones are super tight, it took an hour to get them all on trying not to ding them up. New tires, all balanced with no noticeable vibration in the rear. But before I adjusted them, all for corners spun. Ther are about 1 inch tabs that fully encompass the cap with serrated teeth.

Well apparently bypassing the filter and sucking dirty air into the clean side of the air filter is a thing. Wonder how long THAT engine has been breathing dirty air. Also a whole bunch of hokey-ness going on here. ☺️ Hahaha!! :

Looks like I never finished this thread. I replaced the front yoke and took the propeller shaft to a local shop for balancing. It was there opinion that the shop that did the shortening of the prop shaft did not balance it. When I went to install the shaft into the transmission, the "slop" (the amount I could push the yoke radially) was a lot. As an estimate from looking, I'd say I could move the yoke in any direction about .020". So, that is about a mm of movement radially. It might have been a bit more than that. So, I decided to replace the bushing that is in the tail shaft of the transmission. Looking back on it, I think the bushing developed wear because of the driveshaft being out of balance for the first 500 or so miles I put on the car. I think that the bushing was sacrificial - meaning made of softer material than the yoke. Anyway, after putting the new bushing in (removal and reinstallation of the transmission was required), the new yoke was tight (no discernable movement at all radially). With everything back together, the vibration that caused me to start this thread is gone!

Do they always spin opposite the direction of rotation? Like the wheel is leaving them behind? Maybe they're actually "walking" due to vibration or flexing. That might show as unexpected spin direction. I have a board in a floor that slowly opens a gap on one end after many months of traffic. Must be something about the bumps on the bottom or in the groove that ratchet it over. I kick it back in to place with my foot and it slowly works its way back open. If the caps are walking you might be able to twist the clamping portion so the teeth aren't biting. Can't remember exactly how they clamp to the rim. I assume that you know they're spinning because the valve stems are suffering impingement.

You've got to be kidding!!! Five minutes after wearing that, my wrist would look like this:

I have three sets of D hubcaps and one of the aftermarket set from Resurrected Classics. I can't get them to stop spinning on the wheels. I figured the original sets were maybe too tired, so I put on the aftermarket set, which are extremely tight, yet the rear caps spun in about 4 miles. I can get the front ones to not spin, but the rear wheels just won't stop. I've had them off at least 4 times to adjust, and I'm not a lead foot, but that shouldn't matter. In almost 30 years of running hubcaps on 240z's, I've never experienced this. I tried RTV, rotating the wheels, adjusting the tabs, nothing works. Maybe the wheels are worn where the teeth grab the caps? It's a 1/71 car.

And BAT doesn't seem to mind the jail time issue!!

Talk about incestuous marketing!

One the "The 240Z Guild" cars is up on BaT again. It was sold on BaT in 2017 by The Guild then "reacquired" by The Guild in early 2019 then sold on BaT again in 2019. Now it's up on BaT again. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1972-datsun-240z-29/ $26,500 https://bringatrailer.com/2018/01/13/bat-auction-success-story-regrets-reconciled-with-purchase-of-1972-datsun-240z/ Success story https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1972-datsun-240z-108/ $50,000 https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1972-datsun-240z-362/

I can't even wear a watch.

Happy to join conversations, exchange ideas, and pick up new insights as I go. I'm interested in understanding different opinions and sharing my input when it's helpful. Interested in hearing different experiences and building connections. Here is my web-site-AutoMisto24 https://automisto24.com.ua/

What a fantastic shot! That could be a poster.

Thanks... the New Z is awesome to drive... however I only have 800miles and need 400 more miles to brake it in. Once broken in , I can rev above 4000 RPM and drive it in a more spirited fashion.

Yes I know. I started tearing mine apart in in 2016 and finally started reassembly about a year ago. I still have a lot to do though. John

Great pictures! I like the new Z.

You're welcome. 🙂 Weekends like this remind me that our cars are meant to be driven.

Great-looking car, picture-postcard weather, beautiful country. Thanks for posting.

Went on my first road trip of the year with my BC Z club friends. About a dozen of us left from the Vancouver area, I joined from Chilliwack and we made our way to the BC Okanagan. Our original plan was to take the Coquihalla Highway to Kelowna, but a large sinkhole closed that route. We ended up taking the more scenic Hope-Princton Highway. For me it was a 436 mile (700km) return trip. My1970 Zed performed flawlessly, even in high mountain terrain and temperatures in the mid 30's C, (93 F), Our first stop was in Princton, for fuel, and to meet up with a few more Z club members. Here's a pic of a few of us in Princton. Our end destination was Kelowna, where Kelowna Nissan generously us hosted for a welcome event. They put on a great BBQ and offered up some Nissan swag. With other club members that met up with us along the way, there was close to twenty Zeds. The Zed to the left of me is fellow forum member @Chickenman, with his 1976 280Z. Thanks Richard, for the "way home" route ideas. The next morning, quite a few had decided to stay an extra day and enjoy the awesome wineries in the surrounding area. I and others, make the trek back, with most taking the faster, more direct Coquihalla route, as sink hole repairs had been made. I like to take the road less travelled, so I did a solo drive on a longer but more scenic route. This route included highway 5A from Merritt to Princton, that runs beside a seemingly endless series of beautiful lakes. Another bonus was that I was almost the only car on the road, with that route. 🙂 All in all, it was a great weekend. I'm looking forward to the next road trip.😎

Lost on me but if its a horror movie, life is scary enough...;)

I thought it was a shining analogy.

I'm guessing that you didn't see the movie..... ☺️

Namerow, thanks for the input, and also thanks for the work you had done previously with the wiring. Your previous work helped me with the diagram that I've been working on. So for the comments above... First, the horn. I understand the desire to have an actual switch depicted on the diagram. And in one of my earlier revisions, I actually did have one in there. But then I took it back out because I decided that I wanted to conform more closely to the original scheme depicted in the other areas of the combo switch. By that, I mean... There aren't any actual switches shown for any of the combo switch functions. Not for the headlights, the wipers... No switches for anything. Instead, "connection" is indicated by the existence of the dot. I though it would be closer to Datsun's original scheme to have a dot connection to ground when the horn is pushed. Next, the wipers. I haven't dug into that system at all, and I'm kinda hoping that I never have to. I turned mine on and the arms move, and that's hopefully all I need to know. So, with that said... Are you confident in the switch connections you have laid out? If you are sure, I'll change the diagram to what you indicate. As for the letters in the second column, I'm in the same boat as you... I think I knew at one point, but don't remember. I'll look into it. And lastly, you are correct about the change of wire colors on the combo switch side of the connectors. Problem is that situation exists all over the car. They got better with that in the diagrams for the later years, but for the early cars, the colors on the diagrams are the "colors of the harness". I'm sorry, but I'm in no position to add all the connectors for all the devices that plug into connectors and indicate the wire colors on both sides of those connectors. Haha!!! Thanks for the help!

But with a cool car! ;)