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Is your tachometer connected, with the inline resistor in place? I had found in the past that my 76 and a 78 parts car would not start if the tachometer was disconnected. It appears to do something to the signal on Pin 1. I never figured out what, but I did confirm it a couple of times. On the 78 I had the tachometer out and on the 76 I had the resistor removed which disconnected the tachometer.

Starting fluid worked, engine fired up for two seconds. Tested injector pulse just now and drops form 12.5 to 10.4 both sides of the pin and no pulse. Tested the coil negative terminal 12.5V key on and jumping voltage while cranking.

Seems like the main question is "what happened between then and now?" The cracked AFM hose could stop the AFM from functioning, but the engine should stil start for a few seconds on cold start injector fuel. Maybe your spark is too weak. Are you seeing s strong blue spark or a weak yellow spark? You might try starting fluid to see if you can get it to fire for a few seconds. Another possibility is flooded/fouled plugs. Have you pulled a spark plug to see how it looks? I'd do that, it's easy and quick.

I think if the throttle blades close enough at idle, allowing pcv to function it could work, but then they would tend to stick. Maybe the SU's close off more? I have a patented stack filter, that I am working on, that if done correct, it would be a great place for the pcv to go. I never found a balance of non sticking throttles and working pcv.

Got 12v on Pin 1! Haven’t got around to test injector control, had to order a test light. But wanted to show this, how likely is this cracked AFM boot the cause of the no start? I just ordered a new boot, will be arriving Thursday.

Have you put a vacuum gauge on the balance tube to see how the vacuum looks? I'd try it at both your more centralized PCV connection, and also at your brake booster connection on the end. Just to see if you can glean any useful info from the gauge?

PM sent!

@duffymahoney , You’re right. Mimics a vacuum leak. I have a theory about what’s going on, or at least why it doesn’t do what the balance tube on the SU manifold does. With this, you have all three intake runners connected, so each intake stroke is open to five other runners. With the SUs, the balance tube isn’t on the six intake runners but is up before each half splits into three, so in that case it’s balancing three with three, rather than one with five. In other words, it balances 1, 2, and 3 with 4, 5, and 6. This one tries to balance each individual runner with all of the other five, so you have to have way more vacuum as a result. Maybe narrower runners and a smaller internal balance tube volume would make it work, but I doubt it. I thought initially it would be the PCV valve causing the problem but it didn’t change when I plugged that port. I’m going to save the PcV valve experiment for a later date when I move to a cold air intake. I think putting it on the back of that, the same way the valve cover vent hose is on the SU air filter, would be the only way to do it without expert engineers figuring it out. I’d like to know how they made it work on the new Nismo head, though.

fair point

Seems like a lot of extra tension on the cable. Gives you more flexibility on how tight you want it.

That is a Great Deal!

Excellent! Glad it runs. I can't help with the triples

Yep, especially when someone in Alpharetta (near @inline6 ) posted an 83 5-speed that wasn't even cleaned up for $700.

Will try to upload a movie of it running. I tried twice but its 17MB. But it is running. Carbs are still not acting right. I have dead even flow through them, all the same across 6 carbs. Same jets, but my plugs are all over the place. I installed all new floats, float pins and needle and seats in all three carbs. Getting wildly different readings on float level using the Keith Franke clear acrylic tube method. I am 22mm, 25mm, 24mm from the top, which if I recall is to high on all of them. I have 29mm from the tip as the correct setting, but I have to go research it up again. IMG_8791.MOV

UPDATE: I got her running!!! New 123 is installed and at this point I can say it performs as advertised. Could not start it up for the first 10 minutes and was about ready to cuss as I spent so much time going over the manuals and ensuring all was hooked up properly. Made sure my grounds were good. Then I realized I had not hooked up the last black wire on the dizzy. Yeah, it fired right up afterwards into a steady 500 rpm lope. LOL

I don't like the really short brake pull. I prefer about halfway. That way I know the shoes are fully released and don't drag...

Sounds like a deal to me!

I let a couple of friends in the area know about this in case they know of someone looking for a 5 speed.

I have used this transmission in my Z for many years. After putting many miles on it over a number of years, I decided to rebuild it because it was grinding a bit when going into second. I rebuilt it myself using all new OEM bearings and synchronizers. I also replaced the seals/o-rings on the main selector rod. It has had little mileage added since the rebuild. It is in very good condition. I am switching to a 240SX transmission, so I no longer need this one. Price: $600 plus shipping or you can pick it up from Marietta, GA. Gear ratios: First 3.062 Second 1.858 Third 1.308 Fourth 1.000 Fifth 0.745 Not included are the speedometer cable and the series one transmission crossmember, though I will sell the crossmember separately.

Everything you said is 100% what was the case - that's pretty incredible. I got the car back yesterday (3/21) and here is the update: The right side (only) adjuster did seize after few uses due to the car sitting for 6 months (driven monthly between 5/25 - 8/25) but in reality sitting since 10/24 due to a variety of issues that needed to be fixed one after the next. Since the adjuster was seized, it did apparently warp the drum. The brake shop ended up grinding off a bit of material on both drums for some reason and then changed the shoes yesterday - and the car stops very well. Honestly, I'm fairly annoyed they didn't just replace the warped brake drum because now the e-brake pulls up about half-way instead of a quarter like it had been with the brand-new drums...but I'm just being picky at that point.

I have been updating an old engine build thread on HybridZ.org with content, but there is little interaction/engagement there. So, I figured I would like to post updates here as well. My efforts to get this other Z back running have expanded quite a bit beyond the rebuild of the 3.0 stroker motor. At the moment, I am working on repairing some rust in the floor panels. I have been watching a number of "Make It Kustom" videos on Youtube by Carl Fisher. In one of them, he creates some forms out of 3/8" plate to create a "hammer formed" part. Additionally, he uses a hydraulic press to "stamp" a recess into the battery tray he is making in the video. The rust in my floors on this car is not extensive. It is generally in the area of the large oval depression in the floor panel (on both sides of the car). Yesterday, I spent a few hours cutting out and grinding/filing on part of the form I plan to use to replicate the depression. On the right side floor, I only need a small portion of it. On the left side, I will attempt to make a full piece to replace the depression. I've never done anything with forms likes this, so we'll see how it goes. I will be using my 12 ton press because it is what I have to attempt to make the replacement part. But, I have been watching facebook for a suitable upgrade, perhaps a 30 to 45 ton press.

Unused (NOS) 26510-N3400 license lamp for 8/73 and later Datsun Z cars! Ready to bolt on - no repainting or cleaning your old/scratched one - saves you time! I am unsure of the upper date range cutoff for fitment. Please look at the pictures to determine applicability for your car. I didn't realize at the time I purchased it that it was not the correct lamp for my 71. As received, it had a slight discoloration (like a finger with thinner on it wiped it accidently) when I got it. I used the Ford color and matte paint (as detailed elsewhere in the forum) to touch up just the front face (not the whole grey area). The paint match looks very close to original. Hi resolution pics available. Price: $200 plus shipping cost to you.

A warped drum meaning it’s out of round. I’m not entirely sure how that would happen on these cars, as the drums are quite robust in design. It will be interesting to see if that turns out to be the issue, especially if it’s the same side with the seized adjuster. That seized adjuster doesn’t quite make sense either. In my experience, seized adjusters are usually caused by the car sitting for a long time, they rust up and stop adjusting, which typically results in a long brake pedal. But how would it over-adjust and then seize? One possibility is that it was installed incorrectly, they switched the adjusters, left adjuster in the right side and visa versa. I don't know if this is even possible, sinse I never tries it. If it over-adjusted, it could have caused the brakes to drag, leading to overheating. That heat could potentially warp the drum especially when the brakes shoes keep pressure when it is standing still and very hot. It could also cause the adjuster to seize. It’s just a theory, but it could explain the symptoms.

Pretty slow lately. Maybe some chest pain will help.

Well, I’m not totally sure it’s going to be all sunshine and rainbows yet. I haven’t taken it on the road yet. The idle is definitely low compared to before I put it on. No verdict on how it effects the brakes.