All Activity

I suppose you could pull the water pump to see if it has those sheet metal impellers instead of cast. Some of those break off.

Quite right. I was looking at the wrong column.

Oh, I totally get it and agree completely. It's just odd that Datsun put out a document that seemingly delineated the timeline. Sounds like they were trying to differentiate between the two and put a stake in the ground as to "when". So here's a thought... Maybe that VIN of 21001 would be better interpreted as "We've been making changes over the past couple months, and as of VIN 21001, here's a list of what we've changed so far. Moving forward, all the cars will have these changes incorporated." Maybe that's a better way to think about it instead of "As of this VIN, we will be making all of these changes from this point forward." and changing all of them overnight at that VIN.

I should have clarified that if it was only a month or so to the HLS30-21001 "changes" and a line ran out of parts, I'd use the new part.

Quick one today. After working out some kinks in the wiring (thanks @SteveJ) I’m nearly done with it. I refurbished the wiring for the tail lights this week. I’ve always planned to rework the arrangement to be more like (but not exactly like) the euro tail lights. I’ve read a ton of stuff about these cars getting rear ended, so I wanted to make it as clear as possible that I’m braking. I still plan to add a third brake light, but I think this is substantially better than the original US tail light configuration. Driving lights are the outside top lights only. IMG_4744.mov IMG_4745.movTurn signals are the outside bottom lights only (thanks to @w3wilkes for the flasher recommendation). Brakes all of the top lights. Now I have to figure out what I’m going to do with the front turn signals. These LEDs are so bright that when the driving lights are on you can’t tell they flashing from more than a couple feet away. I’m wondering if there’s a way to make it cut power to the driving light wire only when the turn signal is working.

Thanks everyone that contributed to this thread. I was repowering my 65 520 pickup upgrading from the J13 to the L18 and had this same issue with my clutch. Read the thread a couple of times, took some measurements and figured it out. The clutch package I used had an integrated throw-out bearing/sleeve so changing sleeves was not an option. I welded a 1/4" spacer onto the ears and now it's 92mm exactly from the flywheel!

If I had stock of the new hooded map light and was running out of the non-hooded map lights, Would I use the new stock or would I spend money to get more of the non-hooded map lights made? It's like I believe there are cars post HLS30-21001 that have vertical rear window defroster lines because there was unused stock of these parts. Since these type things aren't really safety or emissions related I would not spend money on them if I didn't have to. I would also guess that this type scenario applies to my yellow defroster switch.

Update: these have been taken, and are NLA. Ad can be deleted or closed, if so desired by Admin.

water does not really flow until the thermostat opens at temperature!

Long story short, the mechanic i was using in Panama was a total mess. He charged me usd400 for adjusting the carbs, blocking the pcv valve and a bunch of crap such as removing the thermostat and else. The thing is today i installed a mishimoto 167 degrees thermostat, filled up the radiator with water and crancked the engine. I started hearing a strange whistle coming from the water pump and noticed that the water did not flow even accelerating the car. Isnt this strange? Water pump dead or blocked radiator? VID-20250622-WA0013.mp4

Thanks just had the shop replaced both front shocks. 20 each in labor! Now i need to move on to the rear ones. Anything i should consider? Any precautions?

Actually, the report is in VIN sequence, column #2. The six-digits in column #1 are the registry numbers.

@Mike

A Korean female player from CA, looking for friends who also like cars, modification, speed and racing

I am a Korean girl living in CA. I have loved cars since middle school. I also play with modification and racing. I want to find friends with similar interests to discuss more knowledge about modification and racing

Interesting that you two guys @Johnz1971 @w3wilkes both have the hooded map light. Poking around a little, there was a doc put out by Datsun in Feb 1971 that described a bunch of changes to the 240Z for "1971 late models", and that map light hood was one of the changes listed. But according to the document, those changes went into effect at VIN 21001. Seems that was not correct?

I want to collect it

I like it, if I want to collect this car, where can I buy it

Some summertime vibe music.

I never knew they made a black 240Z? Learned something today!

Ten years ago I came across a online spreadsheet called the "2015-2020 Datsun 240Z Registry of America". Someone set it up so that owners could register the details of thier car. Why it was bracketed as 2015-2020 I have no idea. Anyway, I was the 32nd entry and it grew to about 600 entries. In 2021 I captured a PDF of the file and sometime later discovered that the online file had disappeared. The PDF is interesting to browse as it lists VIN's, orginal engine numbers, colors, owners, locations, ...etc. It has some HS30's and S30's listed at the end. The earliest VIN is #23, owned by Chris Visscher in the Netherlands. Check it out, maybe you'll find some interesting info about your car or one owned by a buddy. 240Z Master Registry.pdf

My map light was hooded too. I thought a previous owner had installed that. I guess it really was original. I recently sourced a hood-less one for "series 1 originality". Now I'm conflicted. If I leave the hooded one on, I'll have to refer to my z as a 'series 1.001',

I think.. the middle and the right one are the same toggle switches, the middle one is only a bit more dirty, a clean up with some soap and a nail brush makes them nice and the same.. btw, my 240z from 2-'71 has the left one. for as far i know it's the original one. It does not work as i always flatten the knob with my right knee! ;-) (as i'm 6 feet 4-5 or so..)

These cleaned up really nice, but the previous owner for some reason cut some of the coolant hardline and I had no choice but to remove the remainder - the ports did strip in the process... There's a reason every pair of manifolds you see on ebay still have the hard line connected... That said I did chase the threads with an NPT tap and I see no reason some barbed or AN fittings could not be used if one was inclined to keep coolant flowing through them. Asking $100 for the pair.