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You might find some things here: https://junkyardjenny.com/

Hello I just joined this Z car community to gather some data on a 1972 Datsun 240 that I'm helping my son build. We're a little over a year into the project and its currently on a rotisserie. I'm a retired body shop owner and have built dozens of first gen Camaros. This is my first foray into a Japanese automobile. Simple things on an American car such as door latches ,strikers and door adjustments are pretty straight forward. Then comes this car (seems there are some "rubber bushings" missing on the door latch), the reason I'm here. However if I have to deal with these "popups" every time I change a page, I won't be here long. I get the advertisements, but this "download" thing is more than annoying. Is this normal?

Anyone know of Datsun junkyards in the USA?

Need a lot more info to help with this . Ignition set up ? Timing at WOT ? Still running vacuum advance ? What year head ? Was the camshaft degree’ed? Camshaft specs ? Engine compression ratio ?

They run up to the ignition module. The module uses the signal from those wires to know when to create spark. Looks like this. Has many wires connected to it, including those green and red ones.

So I got out to the garage a little more today and played around bit more. I read through the post that I found above and tried out a few things. I tried the method Here where I tapped the green wire to the ground to see if I had spark. I had spark at the ground but not at the spark plug. After rereading the post again, I noticed that I didnt disconnect the other terminal. Ill have to try that next time im out. Other than that I just started taking stuff apart to see if I could find anything obvious. I did find that the wires, to whatever this terminal is, are all chewed up. they run to the pickup in the distributor. The other end runs to the front of the car. Im guessing to the other side and into the fuse panel perhaps? Ill have to read up on that. The wires still have continuity. I wonder if the previous owner did this for testing. This coil looks old as hell, Im tempted to just replace the coil, condenser, module, but it looks like I might be able to upgrade to a newer distributor and ditch all that. Need more research on that. Id like to get it running as is, before I start upgrading from OEM. I did find that the wires are fairly hard and stiff, I also lost a cable end on of the cables. so Ill def be ordering a new set of cables. On side note, do these gaskets on the egr look right to you? Its seems weird to me.

Posed the question on the interweb and got this "AI generated" answer but it lines up with the automatic transmission info in the 1976 280Z FSM: "The inhibitor switch on a 1973 Datsun 240Z automatic transmission is located on the transmission itself. It is typically found on the right side of the transmission, where it controls the circuit for the reverse lights and the starter interlock system. The switch is responsible for ensuring the car can only be started when the transmission is in Park or Neutral, and it provides a closed circuit for reverse when the transmission is in reverse. For a 1973 model, the switch is specifically designed for automatic transmissions and is not present on factory manual transmissions." (We've had A/T Z cars in the shop and swapped out auto transmissions for manual transmissions, but I honestly don't remember the wiring at all.) The electrical schematic has it wired with 4 wires: B/Y, B/Y, RB, R. (B/Y for the start circuit and R & R/B for the reverse lights) The other relay in question is called "Seat Belt Relay" on page BE-2 of the FSM. Refer to "Fig. BE-1" item 17 "SEAT BELT RELAY (A/T MODEL ONLY)". The FSM shows that with 6 wires (as does the schematic - but the schematic does not label it "seat belt relay"): B/Y, B/Y, B/Y, B, G, G. (B is shown on the schematic as the GND symbol). BE-2 of the FSM shows the seat belt relay mounted on the firewall. Others, in other forums, do describe it as the "K-18". Those are the only ones I see related to the start circuit - I don't think the black box under the glove box should be involved. (Is it the ACC Relay?) And there's a post on ZCAR.COM: https://www.zcar.com/threads/not-the-inhibitor-relay-topic-again-1973-240z.424554/

Nice, correct engine block color. I had a great black wrinkle color paint when I first did my turbo swap but they apparently quit and I have yet to find a decent substitute. Yours looks pretty good. Mine could use another refresh...

This is the Jet Hot cast finish. Please excuse the slightly green cast which is the result of either lighting or camera user error. I like the color but more importantly it's extremely robust. After more than 25 years the exhaust manifold on my 280 still looks like it was just done. Hope this helps. Not a job one wants to do twice. PS This is the exhaust manifold from the Z used as the model for the Franklin Mint Z car

My 3.12L is finally going in!

LOL

I probably wouldn't coat a stainless header. Jet coat could probably be used though. I bought a Z story exhaust and really like it...

Pre-Fleetwood Mac Fleetwood Mac.

Hi Jon, Mechanic just confirmed he had advanced the timing to get a quick response in first gear with the hot coil. Should i retard it a little bit? If so how much?

Here's a decent relay instructional video.

You can add a relay as cgsheen suggests, which will take the current to the solenoid out of the switch, or you can bypass all of the inhibitors and other safety features. I would start by checking for voltage on the wire that comes from S on the ignition switch when you turn the key to Start. If there's none there then you need an ignition switch. If you have voltage then you can add a relay or by pass each safety on the path to the starter solenoid. It would be best to also test under load, using a test light that draws some current, like a taillight bulb. I have found that the staked pins (copper color) can get loose and lose contact with the terminal. I had a 78 switch that would grab the starter then let go as I turned the key. The pin was loose. I fixed it with a hammer and a chisel. The terminals are marked with molded in letters. Look closely if you remove yours.

If I do decide to do this, any suggestions on the proper coating? Started looking around and there's a bunch of options. I saw some internal methods using spray with a 360 nozzle and 2 ft hose that looked like it did a good job on the interior. Exterior seems pretty easy. @jfa.series1 That thing looks beautiful!

I got back in the shop today. Rear bumper is on. I don't like the fit but it's on for now... License plate light and hatch badges and I think the rear end is done Also worked on installing the leather pieces over the wheel arches I trimmed one of the last pieces and hemmed it with glue

That's a stainless system. Coating isn't required for longevity sake. Coating might help with heat issues

If I remember right, the Webers have an accelerator pump. So you can pump them a couple of times and omit the choke...provided they have fuel in the float bowls

I am well pleased with the MSA Ceramic Coated Header and Premium Exhaust System I installed some 14 years ago. The fitment was spot on, the OE heat shield fit without bending or mods, no interference with the steering rod or frame rails. The supplied Turbo muffler was a bit loud and had some drone at 3k RPM, a 12" resonator I later installed cured that and softened the sound a bit. A local shop I use was very impressed with the overall design and exceptional quality of the entire system.

Thanks for the info CG! I have an automatic. I also found nothing regarding the inhibitor switch in the FSM but read about it online. My first thought was I needed a new inhibitor switch. I purchased one with no difference. I then thought the relay switch under the passenger side dash may be the issue since it is making clicking noises when putting the key in the start position. I have cleaned and visually checked all the connections. Ignition connector looks great. Now I'm wondering about the actual ignition switch. I just checked with the ignition switch in the on position, the relay under dash gets power. When you turn the key to start position, power is lost at relay & the relay clicks. I assume the ignition in start position is now cutting the power to relay and which prevents it going to inhibitor switch. I am thinking of replacing ignition switch since it's not expensive. A side note the wipers are now coming on intermittently when I have the key in the on position even though I have them off at stalk and now they won't work from stalk with the key in the on position. By the way the coil is getting power. Thoughts?

Hi all. Its been a bit since I've been here and even did anything with the car, life seems to throw obstacles at times. I've been ramping up to start thinking about my next project and headers / exhaust is probably on the menu. Over the last year I've dipped in and out of here contemplating what it would be, even had an idea of how I would do it but never settled on anything. Low and behold I get a new item notification from RC: https://resurrectedclassics.com/products/stainless-steel-dual-exhaust-system-s30z-240z-260z-280z-datsun-1970-1978-polished Its a polished (but uncoated) header with end to end pipes muffler resonator hangers etc. Seems like a true dual exhaust so I guess its 3-2? States its a bolt on to standard block and all the standard hanger locations. For a quasi-newbie DIY type guy like myself this seems like it would be something I can tackle in my make shift garage without any "professional help". From my research previously its been pretty clear a coated set would be best for heat and longevity so that's my first concern. Of course there's the cost concern too as this seems a bit pricey compared to putting an end to end system together from various components but that may be more work and or require a shop trip. There's also the MSA end to end package I guess which I was contemplating as DIY as well with or without coating. Opinions on this would be appreciated. Ignoring the cost factor (I know I know) what about this would be a pro/con if I were to get this and maybe some VHT to coat it myself?