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Confused how this post got into this thread.

That crack is original, not aftermarket. lol

The pics I showed are from work I've done in the past. The header pic was the only one I could find that showed enough of the header. That engine went into a 240 Z that I did for one of my customers, and the efi was a job I did for a different customers car which was a 77 or 78 280 Z. I attached the pics strictly as an example to show how the job is done for the intake mod and the other was to show which is the best style of header to use. I"m not aware of an EGR recall on the 280's. Are you confusing it with the BPT valve recall? ZMOW

That EGR tube was a recall from Nissan and if you had the work done there was a sticker inside the hood on the passenger's side. The pics show efi then carbs. Which 1 you running?

Great that you got your tank coated, hopefully it will work fine for many years. As far as your intake manifold goes, I've seen that rot hole happen more than a few times through the years. What I do is cut off the egr section of the intake and I weld an aluminum plate on top of the hole eliminating any problem in the future. I have to do that with the manifold on the bench, it can't be done while it's still in the car. Then you need to weld shut the tube going to the exhaust manifold or better yet install a header like you already did. If anyone wants me to weld up their intake you'd have to send it to me. See attached pics. I do have lots of used intakes in stock so I can weld mine up and send it to you, then you send me your old one. That way your car doesn't have to be laid up for awhile. Or I could sell you an intake that is intact and doesn't have a rot hole. As far as your header goes, as long as you don't have an auto trans you're best bet on the header is using a 6 into 1, not a 6, 2, 1. I have a ceramic coated 6 into 1 header with round ports in stock hanging on the wall waiting to be sold if anybody needs one. The one in the pic is just like it except that one is alumacoated whereas the one I have hanging on the wall looks like chrome. see pic Z man of Washington

Seems appropriate.

Kinda makes me gag to look at the pictures. Is that Bat or Bird...patina?

Great patina. Clean the glass and give it a quick clear coat and it would be as good as new.............ran when parked!

Pretty car. The dash is cracked.

Something a bit different from "restored"; its a "survivor". https://qualityclassics.com/cars/1972-datsun-240z-unrestored-survivor-23a/

ZH, yes, the Mallory and the pair of resistors were in there 8 years ago when I purchased the car. This issue with the Unilite has been showing up from time to time so maybe I need to get rid of the second resistor. I'm assuming the resistor with the extra connection in the middle is the one I need to keep. I'll report back after this weekend.

That picture is wild and fun story - thanks for sharing

My 240 had almost a pound of rust and crud. Tank cleaned up beautifully and I haven't had any issues since I coated it with Red-Kote. I'd already done the tank on my 280 and was anxious to do the 240 then I realized all the hoses and the evap tank I needed to replace. What a job that turned into! For my 280 I think I bought the last Bosch OE fuel pump in 2011 thinking that was my problem. Oh boy was I wrong! A lot of other problems with the EFI were ahead but I got it all worked out and made a fuel rail for it and put in a 6to1 ceramic coated header. The EGR was clogged up and caused a huge rotting hole in my aluminum intake manifold. It runs good now but only after adding a potentiometer to add more fuel to the ECU's coolant temp sensor function. I've got the OE pump still and it works fine but newer is always better. I think it was $250? I say run it until it starts not keeping the pressure you need. These pics of my 240 tank are not indicative of the 280s tank from what I've seen with my cars.

Good to hear it was purchased, It is a good parts car if not fixable.

I saw one closer to me that was even rougher than that one. They want $1700. It might have $500 in good parts on it...

Sounds good - I wasn't sure if that damaged it making it fail faster. Could the process of it polishing off the rust spots damage the things that spin (I don't know how these work internally)?

He sold it yesterday for 1500$ He did good !

Hahaha! Exactly!

It didn’t even roll and I didn’t see enough to warrant the hassle . I told another z guy that it had a white interior and he should grab it . I don’t have room

Holy crap, literally... That will take a week to wash... but at least give it a scrub before it goes to the crusher.

Looks like it was stored under a heron colony.

I didn't really pay attention to the two ballast resistor part. Did you buy the car with the Mallory already installed? I could imagine somebody adding a resistor if they thought the module was overheating from too much current. But it's obviously not what the instructions call for. If it was mine I'd probably start from scratch and wire it up exactly like the instructions say, and make sure that all of the connections, including the distributor ground, were clean and solid. And also measure maximum charging voltage at RPM above idle speed. The external regulators can allow 15 volts when they're working correctly and I assume more if they get out of adjustment. Maybe somebody tried a bunch of stuff to fix/bandaid an overvoltage problem then never removed their attempts after they fixed the real problem.

You didn't buy it??

I've found most automotive electronics don't like being in the 9v range. And yes, conceivably, high resistance could lower the voltage significantly

There was one that sold for 13k this week. I didn't look at it close but if it was a decent driver that would be a good price!