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Things I wish I knew before I started! Next step will be to put everything back in place but leave the cover off the harness plug and do some wire-wiggling/tapping that way. Starting this way would have been the Pro-Move™ Live and learn...

For future someone who also needs to disassemble their harness connector: MAKE A NOTE: that here are two long plastic retaining comb-clips that hold in ALL of the pins on each side. It doesn't look like it wants to fall out, but it is pretty loose and if it falls out all your unlabeled connectors are coming too Cut the zip tie and remove tape from the harness/connector Remove the small retaining screw located on the end of the connector by the hook/hinge Use a plastic spudger to run around the edges of the rubber gasket inside the connector Slide the cover away from the harness

@Captain Obvious - When disassembling the harness connector one end of my gasket crumbled. You seem to have some quality Kung Fu in the electronics parts department. Any idea where I might find a replacement? I found this but no dice on the individual component.

I think all the regulars have missed you, Philip. I'm hoping you and Janet stay well.

Philip So glad to hear from you. Sorry for all your trouble's. So glad that your both doing well. And that your slowly getting back to the hobby. Keep up the good work. Steve

Well done @Captain Obvious another one saved! I did the same with my August 1970 that languished in a garage from 1983 to 2018. Engine was seized and brakes stuck on. Dragged it home and rebuilt the suspension/brakes and got the engine going. I use it as my beach bomb to go windsurfing. One day I'll restore it but until then it gets used.

Hi Gang, It has been a rough ride for the past few years. I stepped back from a lot of fun things to get through. Dropping Z hobby and online activities were just part of the change. I am starting to get my strength back and tuned some carbs a few weeks ago. This was my first car activity in a few years. I am slowly coming back. I have been a hermit and reclusive. I did not keep in touch with so many good friends. I apologise. I did start to come out of the funk a few months ago and updated Jim Arnett. We had a nice chat. I also promised to update the group. Don't feel special as I also withdrew from many of my good friends here in my area. Strange how things change.... but they are changing back. In a nutshell, during the depressing covid time, Janet, my better half, got cancer and went through hell...surgery, chemo then radiation. She got better then it came back. More surgery finally took care of that #$$%%. She is good now. Once she got better, I got cancer. We were like a sorry tag team looking after each other. I did radiation with concurrent chemo from last Nov though Dec. I am finally getting strength back and starting to feel normal. All is good and last PET scan (just 2 weeks ago) finally shows no evidence of disease. Many more other horrible things seem to happen during this time but hopefully it is all behind us. I'll check back to this thread in a week. Please PM me if you wish to catch up. We can exchange phone numbers. It will be nice. kind regards and apologies to all. Philip

I second the Wesco belts. I tried them in the 260Z over 10 years ago (Edit: It looks like over 15 years ago. https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/34379-replacement-seat-belts/) and decided to swap out the Wesco belts I installed in the 240Z over 20 years ago for the roadster belts a few years ago.

I'm loosening up in my old age

I know you are a stickler for details @26th-Z so happy to help.

I drive a 56 Beetle, it didn't come with seat belts. You just have to drive it like you're riding a motorcycle.

I did these "Roadster" seatbelts in black from Wesco in my 12/70 car. I also needed the hardware accessory kit for the angle floor pieces. The retractor piece goes on the roof place where the stock shoulder strap attached. And I've been very happy with these! Roadster Retractable Seat Belt 2 Point Retractable Seat Belt Hardware Kit HW#1 EDIT: @Captain Obvious Forgot to mention... You only need a single hardware kit. The 2 "L" brackets are what you want for the buckle side of each belt. The rest of the mounting hardware can be re-used from the old belts.

So I've been working in the shadows on the reanimation of an early 240Z. This is not so much a restoration, but more of a reanimation project. Reanimation of an lifeless vehicle with a focus on originality. The OG 240Z: This car hasn't been on the road for decades. Many decades. And in the end, he won't be pretty, but he'll be back on the road. So let's start with the immediate... My intention is to drive this Z to the upcoming ZCON in Nashville and there are a couple things I need advice on before the trip: First, I need to carry a fire extinguisher and I know nothing about them (other than they are supposed to put out fires). Anyone know the system and have a recommendation for which type would be best for automotive related incidents? Second, I've got the original seat belts in the car, but they are the early non-adjustable style. I'd like to install something newer, safer, better, easier to use before the trip. I might swap the originals back in once I get there, but for almost 1000 miles on the road, I think I want newer technology. Is there an easy to drop in system for the 240Z cars? ZCON or BUST!!!

Yea, well take the cover off. They don't have the Yazaki labels either.

I had something similar on my L28ET that turned out to be a cracked solder joint on a connector pin. It drove me crazy for months, very random. Much like yours sometimes it would restart right away, sometimes take a few to several minutes to restart, didn't seem to be temperature related. Mine was not on the ECU but on the CAS optical unit in the distributor so that the ECU wouldn't always get the proper timing signal. You might look at the distributor (cracked magnet?) or the Electronic Ignition unit, or maybe the ECU connector solder to the board, maybe the EFI Relay or power to the ECU.

It does help! Thanks very much!

Come on now!!!😂

Probably as close as I'll get is the store sign. lol!!

Dodged a major bullet my friend!

I probably had a few hundred kms on it like that. It kept spitting off the belt and I couldn’t sort out why

I do have some used dampers. Happy to send one your way, Early 240 2 pulley or later 280, again 2 pulley I recently purchased a Dayco damper from Rockauto. Pic below. Option 3 is send yours (or mine) to DamperDocter.com for rebuild

With the hood and bumper installed this is the best I can get for pics, hope this helps.

Oh? Do you mean above and beyond burning out the internals on the selector and high-beams swtiches? Do you think this is something to be concerned about now that my power draw has been dropped so much? GENIUS. I was literally just now chatting with my wife about how I can either make the female sides more grabby, or the male sides "fatter". Did not think of twisting to accomplish this. I will keep that one in the arsenal, thanks! Now I just need to get the harness connector disassembled and verify root cause. I already have a spare...which might actually be in the car now (ref. prior comment somewhere). I had an unrelated issue several years ago and put in a new one but the old one tested out great. Uncertain which is in the car now. If I remember I'll open the box in my parts bin and see who's hiding in there.

Wow. Was it running like that or was during installation? How's the crankshaft surface? I think that new is avaialble. Z Car Depot IncSearch: 11 results found for "damper"New, used, and OEM repair and replacement parts for Datsun 240Z, 260Z, 280Z, 280ZX, and 510.

SWEET!! I like the “517” series myself.