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@Mike

In recent years, marijuana has gone through a major image change. What was once seen as a dangerous drug is now often viewed as harmless—or even healthy. It’s legal for recreational use in many states, sold in fancy packaging, and talked about casually in movies, songs, and social media. To a young person growing up today, marijuana might seem like no big deal. But here’s the thing: perception doesn’t always match reality. For teenagers and young adults, using marijuana isn't just a casual decision—it can carry long-term consequences. It affects how the brain grows and functions, can lower motivation, and may even impact emotional well-being. That’s why it’s still crucial to talk about marijuana prevention, especially now that access to the drug is more widespread and socially accepted.

In recent years, marijuana has gone through a major image change. What was once seen as a dangerous drug is now often viewed as harmless—or even healthy. It’s legal for recreational use in many states, sold in fancy packaging, and talked about casually in movies, songs, and social media. To a young person growing up today, marijuana might seem like no big deal. But here’s the thing: perception doesn’t always match reality. For teenagers and young adults, using marijuana isn't just a casual decision—it can carry long-term consequences. It affects how the brain grows and functions, can lower motivation, and may even impact emotional well-being. That’s why it’s still crucial to talk about marijuana prevention, especially now that access to the drug is more widespread and socially accepted.

My map light was hooded too. I thought a previous owner had installed that. I guess it really was original. I recently sourced a hood-less one for "series 1 originality". Now I'm conflicted. If I leave the hooded one on, I'll have to refer to my z as a 'series 1.001',

I think.. the middle and the right one are the same toggle switches, the middle one is only a bit more dirty, a clean up with some soap and a nail brush makes them nice and the same.. btw, my 240z from 2-'71 has the left one. for as far i know it's the original one. It does not work as i always flatten the knob with my right knee! ;-) (as i'm 6 feet 4-5 or so..)

These cleaned up really nice, but the previous owner for some reason cut some of the coolant hardline and I had no choice but to remove the remainder - the ports did strip in the process... There's a reason every pair of manifolds you see on ebay still have the hard line connected... That said I did chase the threads with an NPT tap and I see no reason some barbed or AN fittings could not be used if one was inclined to keep coolant flowing through them. Asking $100 for the pair.

Over the last few weeks, i did some small things and collected a lot of stuff again. First, I exchanged my US-spec front lower valance. Before: And After: Euro spec valance: In case you're wondering, what's the difference? The euro spec has the additional mounting holes / nuts to install the Euro spec front spoiler lip. Here you can see the two side-by-side: This allowed me to temporary test fit my wobbly, worn-out, cheaply-repaired Euro spec front spoiler lip: I still need to change the corner valances to euro spec ones, but also the lip needs a replacement, as this one is beyond repair. But at least I could see how it will look: People often say they're impressed with what I'm able to find for purchase. But this time I even surprised myself. You might remember the Eaglemoss Fairlady Z Kit that I bought a while ago and came with a bunch of magazines? The set has dedicated folders / binders to put the magazines into. I always had two missing, so some of the magazines were stored "loosely". Luckily, I was able to find two unused Folders for exactly that kit in Japan: So all the magazines are now nicely stored: And my book shelve / archive looks much better :-) I also bought a small lot of vintage Datsun (Switzerland) Stickers. Some of which I haven't got yet in my collection: Then I also got a bunch of Documents: First, the Datsun Sports 311 Introduction Bulletin from 1967. Theoretically, it has nothing to do with my 240Z project. But with this car the FS5C71A transmission was introduced The original Overdrive transmission, used in a similar (albeit slightly different) configuration in the early EU-spec 240Z. To find information about it is a bit tricky. So when I saw that this booklet has more details about it, which I haven't seen before. I had to get it: Speaking of transmissions, I also got the Japanese Nissan Transmission service manual from 1974: This one includes the later FS5C71B transmission and some general information about Nissan transmissions, which is not found in the 240Z specific documentation: And then i also got another issue of the "Nissan Star", Swiss customer magazine from 1990, which always has cool insights into Nissan from those days: More to come soon.

I was able to buy an OE molded hose at a local swap meet, so -- even though I bought a length of 9mm (ID) braided hose from Bel-Metric for the purpose -- I never got around to trying out the idea. No reason why it shouldn't work, although you might not be able to make the straight braided hose flex quite enough to match the radius of the bends molded into the OE hose. Unless you're trying to build a concours winner, though, I doubt whether anyone would notice. CORRECTION: I just went down to the workshop and pulled out the hose that I bought from Bel-Metric. It's quite flexible and can be easily bent to match the curves of the molded OE hose... and without any signs of the walls collapsing. It also fits nicely over the nipple of the check valve (the one that fits between the engine-side and mastervac-side hoses). The actual ID of the Bel-Metric hose is 9.4mm, so the best size of copper tubing to use as an insert would be 5/16" OD (7.9mm). 3/8" (9.5mm) tube would be too big and I don't think you'll be able to find 11/32" (8.7mm). In any case, the quality of the fit doesn't matter much because there's no fluid flow happening here. It's just a vacuum hose. The only thing that would cause a problem would be if the hose walls collapsed or got pinched off. It's worth pointing out that the range of aftermarket replacement parts for Series 1 Z's has expanded quite a bit since 2019. Many items that used to be unobtanium (such as this engine-side MasterVac hose) are now quite readily available. The hose in question lists at ~ $80.00 (originality doesn't come cheap). For reference, a 3-ft length of 9mm braided hose from Bel-Metric costs about $15. Add anywhere from $0 to $10 for the copper tubing.

I am the 2nd owner of this car, I purchased it from the original owner in 1990. In talking to the original owner when I bought the car and a few times since I really doubt that the switch was upgraded/replaced and I know I didn't replace it. Since Datsun did a lot of work to increase production capability in 1970 it seems like that it is entirely possible that there were multiple production lines for the 240Z with lines being stocked with newer parts at different times as needed. Another difference on the interior of my car is my map light is hooded and some other 1970 built 240Z's I've seen the map light has no hood.

At the top of my list is that it does not have the 2400 valve cover. Did they talk about if the engine was original or not? Between the over 100K miles, the carbs, the fan, and the valve cover, I'm thinking not. So it's a historic car, but it would be a huge project. And the biggest hurdle to getting it to top level would be if the engine had been replaced and the original is not available.

It was Yellow when advertised on Craigslist 2017. This is #55381 and #55380 is also Yellow. On a color change, you usually do not see the backside of the pinch welds on the rockers - painted with a new body color. I can see the areas that appear to be white on the undercarriage...where paint appears to have been wore of scuffed off. White Primer maybe?

😝

According to Zhome, 20th is silver and black. So is 19th and 17th. 22nd is blue and black. One of the first things I noticed in the video is that the hood (bonnet) is a later example with the reinforced corners. Makes me wonder.

So it's still not really clear just when the factory made the switch over to the wide-flange 11061-P0300. The fiche indicates either were possible up to 6/72. But the wide-flange 11061-P0300 does NOT have the extra hole @CanTechZ mentions. The housing with the extra hole showed up on the '73 models and is part number 11061-N3300. And it changed again for the L26 is is part number 11061-N3600.

Pretty close to your numbers 26th, interesting to see it is silver and not green.

Maybe not...looks like a colour change from white to lime...I posted the link prior to looking at all of the photos.

I've got to believe that w3wilkes' z switch was replaced/upgraded at some point in history. @w3wilkes How long have you owned your 12/70?

My bad. Still a discontinuity, but I had it in the wrong spot: 16530 has the black - inline6 17486 has the yellow - w3wilkes 17770 has the black - Johnz1971

No-no, I said "My 12/70 (16530) is black. And my 6/71 is orange/yellow."

Might be one to watch Bring a TrailerNo Reserve: 1972 Datsun 240Z 4-SpeedBid for the chance to own a No Reserve: 1972 Datsun 240Z 4-Speed at auction with Bring a Trailer, the home of the best vintage and classic cars online. Lot #197,933.

That's the same as mine, door guards and all. Your paint looks a lot better though as mine has never had a respray. Yours's is my good vs bad comparison.

Thanks for that info CO. 👍

Actually, looking at that thermostat housing you have on your 1/70 is not from 73... It's from couple years later than that. 75 at least. It's got a thermotime switch and temp sensor for the EFI system.

I believe that hole on the 73 was used for the temperature switch for the EGR system. This pic is from 74 260, but 73 had the same thing:

After looking at some '73 240Zs on BaT, and your supporting info, I have to agree that you are correct. Also I noticed that "thick flange" one also has an extra fitting hole on the front, to the left of the temp sensor hole, that does not exist on the early thin flange housing. On my 1/70 that fitting hole has been plugged. Anyone know what it should plumbed to on a '73? Here's a pic of mine, fitting hole circled in red.