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@Captain Obvious I wouldn't worry about the OG making it as you know how to fix it whatever goes wrong. You're not some rank amateur setting out blindly on a journey naively hoping all will be well. You know your car inside and out and and have so much experience with Z cars I reckon you could rebuild a seized engine on a remote Tibetan pass. My beach bomb 240Z is called Louey and definitely a "him". I've never thought of cars as females.

IMSA car. Now in Glen’s care.

Maybe you're worried about making it because you know too much. Back in 2015, I drove the 260Z to Memphis with carburetors that were too lean, an exhaust leak near the muffler and badly worn out rear bushings. I didn't know about the problems, so I didn't worry. 😁 I made it there and back just fine. If I had the carburetors richer, I might have hit triple digits on the front straight during the parade laps. My biggest worry then was I knew who did the brakes and how much he paid for them. That just proves my point. You worry about what you know.

It just happens. Some cars are her, and some are him. This one happens to be a him. The OG would sound funny to me being a her. ☺️ I've cleaned off most of the dust, but the "will it make it" part of the journey won't be over until I get there!! Hahahaha!!! Jury is clearly still out!

Pretty late to the party but both Z’s in the video where (I believe) owned by the same guy at that time. He unfortunately sold the orange one and repainted the gray Z to yellow but ultimately sold that car as well for a BMW E92 M3. He now goes by @Dutch_e92m3 on Instagram.

Yeah here in the Netherlands not so much. You can get into serious trouble if you’re caught by the police or “Handhaving” (translated to peacekeepers, basically police without weapon rights and with a main goal to be assholes and write tickets) or get into an accident (voids all insurance and you will be 100% liable for everything). That sad I did take it around the block when I got it home and even though the car runs rich as hell it still drive pretty good. Had some time to look at the car yesterday evening and I might have found the problem. When measuring the resistance values of the AFM and temperature sensors I noticed the coolant temperature sensor (2 pin) suddenly dropping down to only 2 ohm! So I guess that the temperature sensor is bad after all. I hope I can find a replacement as they can be hard to get over here and after that verify the AFM is set correctly.

I don't want to be a buzzkill or a distraction or stir up a controvery if it's controversial - but why are you calling your car "him". I've noticed its use in some other places but I don't know where it came from. Is there a backstory? Seriously, I don't know, but it looks odd. I grew up with "her" or "she", which is probably not PC today, but "it" seems like the natural default. Anyway, good luck on the trip and the event. Should have made a "will it run and drive" video. There's still time for the "will it make it" part. A barn find with the dust still on it will probably draw more attention than the resto's.

Let me explain this better. My mechanic is trying to fix rough idle issues when my car is at idle during long traffic jams. He removed the Pertronix 1.5 ohm resistor and the 1.5 ohm resistor connected to a Pertronix ignitor 1711 module, and installed an MSD Blaster 2 coil. The tachometer in my 1972 240Z is no longer working? Any ideas of how should i wire this so it brings my tach back to life.

I need one hatch vent. One of these: Anyone got an old one they could part with. I don't care if the mounting pins on the back are intact or not. I'll just glue it on at this point! ☺️

I drove out to a buddy's place today. I've got about 300 miles on him so far. Day five is behind me:

It's a pumpkin (or some kind of squash) seed and a bunch of other small seeds. Apparently that can happen when you store your car for years with the radiator cap off. I don't know what was living in there, but it had quite a comfortable home. Here's some background history... I saw critter evidence junk in the radiator. Flushed out as much as I could with a hose. Drove the car. and the temps started out fine, but started to creep up the longer I drove. Drained the radiator looked in the top, and there was junk in it again. Apparently some debris was now circulating around the cooling system. So I pulled the radiator and dug/flushed/picked out as much debris as I could and put it back in. This time, however,,, No messing around. I installed a "filter" between the head outlet and the inlet of the radiator with the hope that it would catch debris coming out of the block before it got into the radiator. The filter was a metal screen sock that's used on your washing machine outlet so you don't dump lint into your plumbing. And it just so happens it fit's well into the radiator hose. Looks like this: Chain mail condom: Stuff it into the top radiator hose: Drive around for a couple minutes and I catch this debris before it gets back into the radiator: Rinse and repeat. This is the third time I cleaned out the filter. Probably an hour of engine run time. The amount of debris getting caught is decreasing: I've since pulled it a couple more times and it's almost clean. I can probably remove the filter at this point.

I just purchased some parts from UAE and Spain, pre-August 29 tariff effective date. Speedy delivery and low shipping costs via ebay. For obscure parts, identify a ebay seller based overseas who have extensive listings and ask if they have (or can locate) the parts. Keith

I understand "not supposed to be on the road". Where I live, I routinely take my unfinished cars around the block to help get them sorted. It's never been a problem but some areas aren't as flexible...

I have run into this too. Was trying to buy two BMW fuel injectors out of Latvia. Couldn't because of all the unknowns. Looking to buy something out of the UK and sent them an email to see if they'll ship to the US. We'll see what they say...

Excellent example of what I've been calling for the past 12-14 months the "Depressed upper middle class collector car market".

$36,500 bought it. Decent price for a non original paint and upholstery someone bought a few years ago and thought they were going to make big profit on the crazy prices they were bringing. That dead cat didn't bounce but it did move a little. 😄

Thanks guys, in the mid term im going to cap it off with an hps 19mm coolant bypass cap. I think I will pick up a spare 3 way pipe as well and see about having it welded / capped off.

Many thanks for all the constructive comments and suggestions. I've been running the AC Delco Friction Modified transmission lube for some time, great product and it has provided a significant improvement in shifting. I suspect I have a bearing problem, primarily occuring on cold start situations. Anyway, I'll move forward on tracking down components. With the recent change to the de minimus rule, it looks like most offshore shipments are now on hold pending guidance from the feds. ☹️

I have a 280 radiator in mine with a full ZX shroud. Works great except it sits lower but the crossmember sits just as low. Took the drain valve off and put a bolt in. So far so good and that was around 2015. Bought it at Advance for $139 IIRC? What is that, coffee beans and a racoon's condom?

Here's the wiring for the E12-80 and the TachMatch's for 240s. Mine works great with Blue's Tech Tip ZX swap so I've got no issues in this. Blue's ZX swap... TachMatch's diagram. You'll have to open in another window. I couldn't figure out a way to copy/paste for side by comparison. 240ZTachMatchWiring.pdf

Lean misses can cause rich exhaust. And California cars did have 02 sensors and catalytic converters through 1975 and up. Where did you get your car? Does it have a "Catalyst" sticker on the driver side door jamb? Looks like it has the proper AFM. Are the injectors original? Doesn't look like you pulled the vacuum hose the FPR to check for fuel. Pulling and inspection of each spark plug is worth doing, you might have a bad cylinder. Check and set valve lash, it's the first item in the Tuenup chapter. Check that your timing advance mechanisms are working correctly, both vacuum and mechanical. 16 is kind of high for idle RPM, the system is designed to retard timing at idle for cleaner exhaust by using ported vacuum timing advance. Check the charcoal canister to see if it's loaded with fuel, and check the operation of the control valve on top. Maybe somebody modified it and you're pulling intake air through the gas tank. The tiny things add up.

You didn't mention which TachMatch Device you installed? I did a ZX matchbox distributor with removed resistor on my 12/70 car. My tach almost works but doesn't seem to go any higher than about 3500 RPM.

The saving grace for my 78 model that was running extremely rich was changing every connector on the EFI harness. Cleaned all of the male connections. Finger nail file works great and reinstalled the harness. This was after months of trouble shooting. Doesn’t mean you don’t have other issues but you have a good base line to start from.

Do you mean you replaced the Pertronix with the MSD Blast and no resistor? When we replaced the original coil and resistor in my car with a Pertronix and no resistor the tach wouldn't work. I added a TachMatch device. It didn't fix the problem initially, but the entire setup mysteriously began to work almost a year later. It's possible that the tach would have started working again without the TachMatch, but the scenario you've described is one of the use cases for it and mine's continued to work perfectly all summer.

The car is as far as I have seen completely stock with the exception of aftermarket exhaust headers (explains the O2 sensor bung) and a aftermarket cold air intake filter. The crank angle sensor sits on a (I believe) homemade bracket and isn’t connected to anything. The Electrical harness (both car and engine) also aren’t modified so that lead me to the conclusion that the might have been used to “tune” the stock system. I am happy with the aftermarket exhaust headers as they sound good and I can watch the AFR via the O2 sensor and the temporary AFR gauge. I would like to monitor the AFR when driving but unfortunately the car doesn’t have an valid inspection so I can’t drive it on the road. And guess the reason it didn’t pas inspection…. So now I can only try and retune the car while stationary on my driveway, which should work fine enough for now. I did check and adjusted the TPS as the two prongs were a bit too close to each other and there was no middle ground between idle and wot positions. I set the timing to 16 btdc and the idle to 800rpm btw. I also blocked off the fuel supply to the cold start valve to eliminate that as a possible problem (don’t really need it anyway in my case). Only possible options I can think of now is to measure and check the electrical sensors (yes I read the EFI bible) and clean the inside of the AFM unit. Might also clean the injectors while I’m at it.