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  1. Blog EuroDat

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    The inspection light is is NLA or very hard to find at the least, so I decided to try and make the lens. I had a light in good condition, but the lens was brittle and badly faded.

    Since I had all the equipment for making a set of tail light lenses for my 280Z it was not too much work to try make the inspection light lens.

    The Equipment I used:

    1. Vacuum chamber and vacuum pump. This is needed to remove air from the silicone resin used for the mould and the clear resin used to make the lens. You can do it without using vacuum to de-gas, but the results are not as good.

    2. Pressure chamber and compressor. The pressure chamber is used to pressurize the silicone mould when its curing and to pressurize the resin when you mould the lens.

    If you don't do this you run the risk of getting a champagne bubble effect. This effect is caused by small air bubbles captured in the resin during stirring.

    The silicone mould suffers a different problem. Uncompressed air bubbles in the mould will compress during the pressurizing phase of the lens making. When the bubbles are compressed the mould is then distorted and you get a strange looking lens. Trust me, I know from experience.:stupid:

    3. Scale that can measure 1 gram for measuring resin, dye and hardener ratios. Very important for reproduction later.

    Note: If you are using dye, I suggest mixing the dye in the resin before adding dye. Mix enough for your total production and keep it stored. Mix the quantity needed with the hardener. This way you maintain the colour through out the production run.

    4. Injection needle or device to evenly inject the resin without trapping bubbles in the mould. This is probably the hardest part of making the lens.

    I prefer to inject the resin instead of pouring it into the mould. I have found it easier to prevent bubbles this way. I fit a plastic tube to the seringe (plastic tube used for fish tank pumps) and make sure you use enough tube to hold the resin.

    5. Releasing agent. Spray pack. This helps prevent the resin sticking to everything you can think of. Makes cleaning easy.

    Pressurize the mould. Once the mould is poured it needs to be pressurized to remove any small bubbles. I use 2Barg for 8 hours and warm the chamber to 60°C. This helps cure the lens and helps give it a shiny finish.

    Remove the mould, dismantle it and trim the excess of the lens.

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    Hello Datsun Nation! I’m new to this forum, and i have a couple of questions in mind. I have been wanting to buy a 240z, 260z, or 280z for the past few years, and now that I have saved a little bit of money; i am ready to start looking for one. I have seen quite a few Z's with SR20s and LS1s swaps, which has only persuaded me to do the same. However, i would love to get your guys opinion an expertise of installing an SR20. I would love to have an LS1, but quite frankly, i think it would be too much $. Furthermore, since i am not a mechanic, i will most like need to have a professional mechanic install the motor. With that said, i have an idea of how much an SR20 costs, but how much will it cost me to have it installed? Of course, this swap is not going to come immediately after my purchase, but i would eventually love to have a Z with an SR20. I look forward to reading everybody’s suggestions, opinions, and experiences when it comes to swapping/upgrading a motor in a Z, especially those who currently have an SR20 on their Z.

  2. I decide to drive my 280z over 220 something miles(Panama city to Jacksonville FL). I wrongly assumed my car had oil and was ready to go. After 2 hours on the road, I noticed as i drove up steep roads my speed would go down. Then i notice i couldn't get past 70 going down. Then i was below the minimum speed limit which was 50. Lucky for me it was 9 or 10 at night. Then my car started to shutter. I pulled over and checked the fuel pump...... No leaks. The engine looks good. My first thought was overheating. So i sat on the highway for about 30 minutes. With temps in the 40's that sounded long enough. So i start it up, its normal so i drive and it shutters slightly. 4th gear is slow as dirt so i stick to 3rd. In 3rd gear i top out at 50 up and down hills. Then my car goes nuts it starts to backfire with the slightest pressure on the gas. So i get off the interstate under and quiet overpass. I see that the rear axle is slightly wet. Yet is see no fuel leaks. I look at the front and the oil pan looks like i drove through a puddle. I check the oil, there is none. My car now sounds like a tractor and shakes like Muhammad Ali's parkinson's. So i get it to a hotel parking lot and it can barely move. I put in 4 quarts of fluid but it wont even rev and it backfires. My dad first thought i threw a rod but he now thinks its a head gasket. Around the cover is oil and my oil looks like coca cola all over my block. I'm mechanically incline with aircraft since i work for the United States Air Force but this Japanese straight 6 looks like a nuclear physics equation. Does anyone have suggestions on how to fix this and get it road worthy to drive at least close to normal. This is my first vacation and right now its been ruined by my neglect and ignorance. Someone Please Help!!!!!

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    I just recently bought a 76 280z. Im in the process of trying to get it running. The fuel pump is working fine and fuel is getting to the injectors. The injectors are brand new but there is no pulse to them. Most people woud say replace the ECU but there is also no power to the ECU. Ive checked my grounds and Im pretty sure their all good to go. Any ideas?

  3. Blog ricky86

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    I have 1and 1/2half 1980 280zx’s a 2+2 that is in pieces but runs good and a 80 2 setter w t-tops full car hasn’t turned over yet but haven’t tried2 hard 2 work on it the 2+2 engine purrs both 5 speeds Basically one car 2 engines got turbochargers lying round the shop id like 2 turbo charge one of em and keep one stock!! Can anyone help?

  4. Could anyone tell me how many pounds of air pressure to test a heater core with?

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    I recieved an email yesterday from Datsun Classifieds that said Happy New Year, and said to watch for news of a new 240z coming in 2014. Is there any truth to this, or is this just a bs rumor about a successor to the 240sx to get more action to the site? I'm a member of Nico also , and we've been talking about the need for a new affordable rwd sport coupe, and Andy Palmer has been ringing in and told us that something is in the works, but the administrator told me that their lineup up to 2016 is already filled. As a potential buyer of one, and speaking for all potential buyers, I think we deserve to know the truth, and people need to stop posting rumors.

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    steves72z
    Latest Entry

    Does anyone know if A 1986 3l 5 speed will bolt up to a 72 240????

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    After spending five years restoring my 71 240 Z again after being flooded in two feet of sea water, it is back on the road. I am still working out some issues, however the car is road worthy, at least for a while. Anyways, with the engine running, the tach is pegged over to 8K rpm.This is an intermitten issue as it sometimes self corrects. I checked the wire to the coil and to the ballest resistor, and they seem to be fine. Any ideas?

    Thanks

    Jim

    71 240 Z.

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    everything is new...i just had the motor rebuilt and the guy was suppose to put all new parts ( battery,starter,coil,ect ) on it.when i picked it up it started fine then i had it hauled to a guy to fix the body and paint it.he was taking forever and working on other cars in the same building as my car and it wasnt covered up and had all the sanding and everything else all over it and all over my motor he said he lost my key so we pushed it out and i had it taken to my house.now it wont start there is no fire anywhere.my brother had a friend over here last week but i was gone but he said the guy went to the battery and hooked something up and it started and said it was the fuse box.i replaced the fuse box but still no fire...wont start i have spent almost all my money on this car...i dont know where to start now or how

  5. Blog mnilges

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    All,

    Anyone looking for window stickers mgood can make you just about any year you are looking for and he does a great job and looks just like the originals.

    Just had one done for my 1973 and it was just what I was looking for and he will laminate if you want, very fast service too.

    Thanks again Michael great service...

    Mnilges

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    Hi everyone, I am a new member and was wondering can some help me out with my problem. I have a 1983 280ZX coupe with 239,000 miles. I have a moderate stage II cam and great compression on all cylinders. The problem I am having is that while driving the car during acceleration or normal level driving the car wants to stall and hesitate. I can push in the clutch, rev the engine and then it corrects it self until it happens again moments later. The car runs, cranks great, and idles just fine. I have changed out the fuel regulator, fuel filter, new fuel pump, new fuel dampner, had the air-flow meter re-built, new distributor cap, rotor button, wires, and spark plugs, yet none of those things I have done has helped. I am thinking that I might have to drop the gas tank due to possible rust that might be restricting the fuel pick-up on the fuel sending unit. Can anyone give me any help with this ???

    Sincerely,

    BlueSky224

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    I would be interested. I am currently in the process of restoring my Black Pearl, and would buy at least one kit (possibly 2).

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    Do you have a copy of the Factory Service Manual? If not' date=' PM me your email and I'll forward you a PDF copy.

    You'll be able to find all the routing for the vacuum lines, as well as electrical connections...[/quote']

    traced out ecu, no shorts, everything is connected. I also went ahead and replaced all of the connectors on the sensors, and all the injectors. still no change.

    Timing is set at 10 degrees btdc, also put iridium ix spark plugs in.

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    I have a 1973 240z and it sometimes just dies out as Iam driving. I could go 30 miles and it runs great then dies or just 10 miles and dies, but it does start back up any know why?Thanks

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    Does anyone know the whereabouts of one Isaih Taylor? Sent him funds through PayPal months ago for the exshaust he supposedly was custom building. He did respond to a blog and left a contact number,however has previously doesn't respond to e-mails and phone numbers are non-working. No product Lost Funds Not Happy Can anyone Help?

    Thank's Bill:ogre:

  6. Well my original antenna just isn't cutting it anymore. I recently purchased an Harada MX 3 antenna and now see that it wants a DPDT switch and not the original SPDT switch (which basically puts +12V to go up and then reverses +12 V to do down.) Any schematics out there on how to "fool" the wiring so that I can use my original up/down switch with the new MX3 antenna? Also, I want to be able to stop my antenna and not have it go all up or all down like the modern antenna do today.

  7. Blog CJO

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    CJO
    Latest Entry

    Hey, I'm a new Z owner....I inherited this car and have no idea of its value???

    It seems to be in great looking condition, but it hasn't been started for probably 15 years.

    Can anyone give me an approximate value of this car?

  8. Blog gius

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    if anyone knows about an available 78 280Z spider harness only, could you please contact me.

    Thank You

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    I wanted to do that too. It takes an 82 Maxima with the electronic over drive. I know that you have to change drive shafts as well. Do a search on this site, I think you will fi.nd the info you need.

    I've done this swap in my Nissan Cedric 1978 year model.

    You'll need:

    The 4 speed flexplate,

    An overdrive rocker switch to lock out O/D

    A modified crossmember.

    A modified tailshaft (shorter and different spline than the original)

    Some slight transmission tunnel adjustments (read, make larger at some points where the trans touches the tunnel)

    These are things that i had to consider and do to make things work, you may have some of these issues with your S30 cars...dunno, never owned one myself.

    A worthy modification IMO. Good luck mate, Cheers. :)

    PS My 4 speed auto was from an R30 Skyline with an L24...it was a hydraulic box. Some later ones are electronic. That may need more work to set up the electrics but I don't know about this, as I said, mines hydraulic.

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    a couple of weeks ago I visited my local pick a part, and found a 240Z with a Holey electric fuel pump, unfortunately I opted not to get it cause the pump was rusted shot and the guy at the counter was asking for too much $ I thought. It had the stock electrical conectors and a red body.........not too sure that the one on my 260 is working and was wondering if anyone here would know what the specs are on this type of fuel pump.........looked at the Holey website and it does not list cars for the application, only the psi!!!! :tapemouth

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    Hi Ive been looking for a cheap 60mm throttle body to put on my 280zx but haven't had such good luck, But then I heard a 240sx throttle body would work but needs minor modifications and possibly a spacer does any one have tips or steps on how to make the TB work perfectly?

    -Chris

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    Trying to figure the value and best way to sell. Any ideas would be appreciated. It has not been driven in some time and needs work. Original parts for the most part including original engine. Some rust on floor boards due to some exterior storage.

  9. Blog Ardent

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    im looking for a 1978 280z gas tank new, used or a place I can send it for resotre.

  10. Blog sycoz

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    So I'm planning to buy a 73 240z, the problem is that the fuel isnt going to the carb making it unable to drive. Can anyone tell me what would I get myself into and what would I need to do to fix the probelm. THANKS Z fans!