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Blog ConchZ

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ConchZ

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Been a long time between posts, due somewhat to relocating to Kansas City, MO for a job transfer. Miss Key West, but KC is nice, and most of my family are here. I can also afford suitable housing, with lots of garage space, making it easier to work on the car and store parts. I just noticed it has been two years since I got the paint done. I had a few initial problems with the paint, but once those were fixed, it has held up great for two years now. I just removed the gas tank to solve a leaking vent hose, and was very pleased with how rust free the underside of the hatch and insides of the quarters and rear panels looked. I don't think the car will ever be finished, though. Seems there's always something needing fixed, or at least improved upon. I guess that's why I bought it, something to do for a hobby. Interestingly, the car came from Wichita, so its much closer to its original home. Maybe I should look up the guy I bought it from. I never met him, as I bought it from Ebay. My friend checked out the car for me and handled the transaction.

Time for new tires, as they are about 7 years old and hard as rocks. Good tread left on them, just old. Time to make a final push to solving the mysterious rear end clunk, too. Replaced bushings, mount and u-joints already. Wish they would have come up with a better design. Speaking of design, what the heck were they thinking on that fuel tank? I think there were 7 fuel and vent hoses on it, none of them the same size.

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    • I'm still waiting on a hoist to free up before I can start bolting the new brake parts on my Z, but I did make the drill jig today.  I started with a 12mm thick Mustang wheel spacer with a pilot.  I then made a drawing to layout the holes needed.  I transfered the drawing onto the spacer and I drilled three new 1/8" holes through the jig (spacer) so I'd have the correct 4x114.3mm holes.  One hole is shared from the original 5 lug rotor.  I then bolted the jig onto the Mustang rotor and simply dr
    • Local radiator repair shops used to be plentiful but getting harder to find.  Some of them just specialize in big truck-heavy equipment radiators.  I will be needing to do the same for my project.  I have heard good reports on gas tank RENU but there are none of those franchises in my area.  Good luck, John-Lugoff, SC
    • Decided to go with the 240sx conversion. Main reason is it’s strictly for the street and the parts were easy to source. What I didn’t realize was the 14” wheels won’t clear the caliper. Now looking for a set of 4 lug 15” rims and tires I can use during the build process. Can anyone recommend a temporary solution as far as make and model preferably a steel wheel that I can use until I’m ready to buy the wheel and tire combination at the end of the project? Thanks again for all the help out there.
    • There are several reasons to use the S197 rear brakes.  The rotors are larger diameter than the SVO rotors and they are vented.  The calipers have larger pistons to give them more power.  The big beef with the Maxima rears is that they don't offer as much stopping power as the stock drums.  The S197 rears allow the addition of an adjustable proportioning valve.  The Maxima rears cannot utilize an adjustable prop since the prop needs to be all the way open to get close to enough rear bias. 
    • Any particular reason to use S197 Mustang 5-lug brakes?  The Fox body SVO Mustangs had rear discs with 4-lug.  It's a popular swap to use SVO or T-bird Turbo Coupe rear brakes to retrofit discs to other Fox body Mustangs.  These parts are still pretty common (probably available as a kit).  Might be worth checking to see if they'll fit.
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