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240z restomod

RS02

By RS02
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RS02 CollaborZator

RS02

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I posted a thread about a year ago. But I can't find it anymore. Well I was even stupider than I am now so let me just start a new one and keep this one alive. Anyway for those who don't know I'm 16 and bought a late 1971 240z with a L28 bottom end and a 73 e88 head. Now I have rebuilt the motor with a e31 head, new valvetrain, high lift cam but not long duration. Bottom end remains stock with flat top pistons. Twin SU carb bored by rebello, Zstory header and muffler, 2.5in exhaust with a resonator and a cutout right behind it. I'm still working on rewiring the car but I have put a AFR gauge in where the clock was and a knock sensor will be in the map light slot. A tenon amp and some old Sony speakers because I might need it. This is all that I can think of and body and suspension is my next objective. I have never seen the car running so I'll worry about rust later. IMG_0021.thumb.JPG.0049ec60fb2fa109ad1d7

Here's the car when I got it, tried to start but failed. Later found out there's rust on the 2nd cylinder...IMG_0023.thumb.JPG.7dba37f46952736d84f13IMG_0026.thumb.JPG.2750ff7a872463f7dc063Pulled the motor myself, man that was a full day of grease and sweat!IMG_0035.thumb.JPG.9f7ff1e07e94906ca9965IMG_0036.thumb.JPG.926cc9eb268b6aefb83d2IMG_0039.thumb.JPG.2b54f584fc53c3476305b

Disassembled and sent to machine shopIMG_0106.thumb.JPG.e8e0e1e802441903efbd1made a grill myself and paint the valve cover as I'm waiting.IMG_0125.thumb.JPG.016cb28ebbed2af966c2fseat coversIMG_0143.thumb.JPG.9010012c2545fbb9e3626IMG_0249.thumb.JPG.4125dc664601a734f7a3dIMG_0177.thumb.JPG.d8ef07e013345c000297fIMG_0215.thumb.JPG.d96ca61ee63e6873bdbc2exhaust and parts...IMG_0147.thumb.JPG.a325683e66e17462c20cepolish cylinderhead...IMG_0227.thumb.JPG.ffe7fd4931000c7f79cb4new gauges IMG_0343.thumb.JPG.aa8c3599444587ba8cd6awiring. Yep. Plan ahead or get messed up like me!IMG_0364.thumb.JPG.6ffc3bb48ca438613e86eIMG_0241.thumb.JPG.8a8b2ab05bcd37fd3d469IMG_0387.thumb.JPG.531e7e55e0bb5da5784a9 Here's where I'm at, degreeing camshaft.

Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

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RS02 CollaborZator

RS02

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Oh, and a question: Do I use synthetic to break in, or switch after a couple of hundred miles? A lot of people have been breaking in their motor gentle, but a website I saw when doing research on hybridZ said hard acceleration after warmup within 20miles really settles the ring. I'm sure that I have to pull plugs, crank to get oil, start the thing and warm up and tune the carbs. But what next? Go on the streets and do hard acceleration? Or slow acceleration and engine break? Keep the rpm under 5000? Or blast it? Change oil immediately after 20mile? Or 500? What's your opinion on breaking in?


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siteunseen GrandMaster Z

siteunseen

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I used a high zinc but inexpensive Quaker State Defy 10-30 for the first 2 changes now it's on VR-1 10-30. Walmart has their version of the QS Defy but the real deal was just a couple of extra bucks.

I kept mine under 2,500 rpm but did a lot of downhill engine breaks to suck the rings to the walls for the first 200 miles. Changed oil and filter, cut the filter open and drain the oil through paper towels looking for metal shavings. Everything looked good so I ran it up and down, 4,000rpm max. After 1,000 miles, drove it like I borrowed it from an ex-wife. 

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S30Driver VeZeran

S30Driver

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Important is to vary the engine speed when driving the first 200 to 300 miles.  Don't drive at constant rpm for too long, or lug the motor during this period, this helps seat the rings.   If you plan to run synthetic in the future, don't switch to it until 3 or 4 thousand miles.

After the break in, use a quality filter like Nissan or Wix.

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