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Everything posted by 240znz

  1. The one without the key in it is a door lock, not a hatch lock.
  2. 240znz


  3. Hey Gav, Sorry to drag an older thread back up but I’m cleaning up the rear hatch glass today and thought I’d some more info. I shattered the passenger glass when I was cleaning the dumb dumb off the door (amateur mistake and pissed me off no end). That glass was clear as was the other panes. Remember that #352 was first registered in Australia also. No connectors in the roof for a demister.
  4. Make sure you use a protective coat if you get down to bare metal such as KEYFOS as the steel will quickly get covered in surface rust.
  5. 240znz


    Yup, old photos. I’ll chuck up new ones now and then. I will miss my deadline but it will be close.
  6. As wisely said before, multiply your budget by 5. Take all the badges off carefully, all glass out, doors off (as you will need to access the sills properly or it will look shite). Guards off, sugar scopes, hood, cowl, gas flap, rear facia out and tail light clusters. Tool hatches, rear deck also. Here’s the killer. Are you prepared for all the rust repairs you will find? Your doglegs could need replacing, sills, rear arches, what about under the body issues? Once you’ve done all that, the little things will grate at you. Like the cost of new door scuff plates, you may want to put on new badges. You’ll spend countless hours polishing stainless, maybe new door handles etc. It will soon turn into a major, if you let it. Not trying to put you off, just letting you know what happens. Good luck.
  7. Did anyone mention the "NISSAN 2400 OHC" rocker cover and hand throttle yet? I know this is hard to believe but HS30-00352 isn't far from finally being driven again. SHOCK HORROR!!!
  8. Yep. still here, but not at all often.
  9. My panel guy told me where to buy it and it was a local shop here in New Zealand so sorry not much help I'm sorry. I too had new floors must in. Etch primed then tar, then primed twice to stop the tar bleeding. Two top coats to finish it off. No problem with the rust coming back for some time I'd say. More important attention under the car is the key here. It too was etched then two coats of a stone chip guard type paint, then top coats. As my car will live in a garage, hopefully helping in keeping the rust monster at bay for a while. Pay special attention to ensuring that your door seals are good and also that the cowl drain hose that exits into the front guard void is in good shape. They can perish and the result is water soaking the firewall insulator and tracking down onto the floor pans.
  10. Noooo, don't turn your your classic zed into a "TV resto" by putting in dynamat or something similar. Just put in the original tar paper like it was intended. Looks much better and very rewarding once you've slaved hours to put it in (burnt hands / sore back / am I selling it too you?). It took me two days to put all mine in properly and I put in a great deal more than stock just to keep it as quiet as possible. Over the tunnel, new modern sound absorbing matting over the tar and the original restored vinyl over that. Floors have tar/double matting and carpet. Hatch area is tar/matting and carpet. Should be quiet enough but nothing will stop the music the triples will make. Planning on making some sort of heat deflector where the exhaust goes from the engine bay into the tunnel to help deflect the heat somewhat as it gets warmish on the passengers side (RHD remember). But doubt it will do much bit it may help.
  11. Anybody heard from Alphadog...or AlphaPuppy as we used to call him?
  12. While not on the list, I too remember may of those names from the past. Keith "2ManyZ's" and I used to chat quiet a bit. He is a nice chap, I hope he's OK. I drifted away from this site because I found it hard to use and also a local club started up in my city so have been supporting that. As for #352, it is finally got painted and is now back on it's feet as some of you may have read. Kids are old and I've stopped playing "I'm a fast catamaran sailer" and now far to busy mountian biking (which means I always have injuries). Must say Mike that this site is much better. I must start that build thread one day too. What section shall I start it. Is 26thZ still about?
  13. I fellow zedder has kindly donated one to the cause. Thread closed.
  14. Wow, a name from the past I hear some of you say! Yes it's been while and still working on the zed. I have managed to lose one of the rear embellisher mounting clips and need one to complete the rear reassembly. If you have one spare, please PM me your email address. There are four clips which mount onto tabs which are welded onto the rear panel. The clips secure into the tabs with their own spring action. The rear tail light surrounds locate into these clips then with the top section slipping neatly over the hatch threshold which is then secured my those horrid plastic rivets (yes the ones that the centre plastic pins that are impossible to find once removed). If you need more info, let me know. Cheers James
  15. You can still get the old self adhesive backed bitumen based sound deadening which retains that stock look. You can easily remove the old stuff with a plastic blade and a persuading device such as a rubber hammer and a few choice words of encouragement. This is the best way to inspect the floor pans which if they haven't been done yet, probably worth the look. You will however need to clean them well, spray on a etch primer then lay the panel sound deadener down again. For that stock look, prime again and then top coat it. Then put some more modern underlay down prior to carpet. Have a look in my gallery for what I did to mine.
  16. Wow, just read this first thread from many many years ago. Here's an undated pic.
  17. Hey all, Excellent thread. Lots of valuable info within. I'm about to send my 44's to a local carb shop for stripping and rebuilding and while they are a away, I'd like to start thinking removing the shaft throttle system to a cable version. Has anyone written up or got a few good pictures of this type of conversion. Also running stock fuel pump, should I install a electric pump at the tank? Cabling easy to run still. I see plenty of engine bays with fuel pressure gauges and O2 sensors in headers. Is there any preference to which header primary the O2 sensor is fitted? Cheers James
  18. Hey Mark, If I were to do this again, I'd pull a section apart at a time, clean then in a parts washer, wire wheel them then have then re-electroplated. Cost to do the whole car would be well under half of what any kit would be and you know that what you put back is 100% right. Might sound a little anal, but if you want an original look, I can't see any other way. Mike, Gidday mate. No heater required yet. I ended up winning the South Island Island Paper Championship and with the Nationals being here next Xmas, I've decided to give sailing a back seat for a while. Young family is now teenaged and requires more Dad time over the weekends plus what seems endless taxi service after work each day. So time in the garage sifting through boxes of dusty bolts is now rather quite attractive. When are you coming over? Microfiche shows what machine screw, spring, washer, diameter but not length or what is stamped on the head. Can't have it all I guess. James
  19. Hi all, It's been a while since I've visited this site and I must say I have waned in my resto project. However, I have been digging around in the garage and with renewed vigor, are now slowly getting back into it. I've been sifting through boxes of fasteners that I cleaned, buffed and had re electroplated. Issue I have is that the paper notes I made of what goes where has faded enough that I haven't a clue of what goes where. To cut a long story short, has anyone gone thought the fasteners on a S30 and cataloged what goes where based on machine screw head number, size and length. Many thanks if you can help. James
  20. Thought I'd update and close this thread in one go. Shakes have subsided enough for now, last big enough to notice was some months ago. City demolition still continues with only about 1/5th left to go. We still haven't had our house fixed or had notice of when it will be. Things just take so long. Thanks for everyone's thoughts and know that we are grateful for your support. Cheers James
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