2ManyZs

The VIN number means it was the 47,431st of the HLS-30 cars off the line or close to it. There were a few other models for other markets, so those were also being built alongside the US HLS-30 cars at the same time. They were also being number in order with a different prefix in the VIN number. Hard to tell what month the first of the 72's were built, as the Japanese didn't have the same model year changover that US makers did in the past. Now we see some of our new models coming out in July and August where they used to not hit the showrooms until October or November.... If you check out www.zhome you might be able to figure out about what month the changeover occured using the registry.

They fit, but if IIRC they are slightly different in the plastic on the handle. There's a new set on Ebay right now if you are looking for a new set, or is that why you are asking???:cheeky:

Use the same wrench, it is the same size and it may prevent you from snapping off a bleeder! Use the flare wrench to loosen them and then you can use a regular open end 10mm while you are bleeding...

Sounds like it might be in the socket then, check inside for any corrosion and check the wires out carefully in the rear. Is the bulb tight in the socket and fully seated?

Double check the bulb holder for any corrosion on the ends or on the bulb itself? Check the turn signal switch that it is fully engaging, check the plastic steering column panel that it isn't interferring with the switch. Try some electrical contact cleaner in the switch. Check the wiring harness at the rear for any loose or corroded connections. Failing that, check the ground wires on the harness in the back.

The absolute easiest way to replace the rack bushings is to remove the rack from the car and do it on the workbench....:sleepy: I've tried it while it is still attached to the tie rods and steering column, and it is not an easy thing to do as the rack will barely lift up high enough to slide the bushings under and around the rack itself. If you look at the bushings, they are a diamond shape and feeding them under and around the rack is a lesson in cussing and fussing. The rack will only raise up an inch or so before it makes contact with the oil pan. You can remove the rack fairly easily if you put the car up on jackstands, remove the tie rods from the steering arm, and then loosen the pinch bolt on the steering column and using a large screwdriver, wedge it into the slot on the coupler and loosen it from the splines on the rack. It is also a good time to check out your tie rod ends and replace them if needed. It might take the better part of an afternoon to do this, but it is the easiest way IMO.

The ones on Ebay were new, but I just looked and they aren't there and I can't remember the seller's name. If not Too Intense or Andy (check with him at z@datsundude.com), there's a guy with the username of rzola that has quite a few small rubber items on Ebay, you might try him..... OK, here's the guy's site, unfortunately I don't see the window squeeges, but he does have quite a few of the odd rubber pieces.... http://www.cybersanford.net/NewPage.html

Don't know if this will help either of you that are missing the covers, but look what I found on Ebay....:classic: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=6763&item=1876063020

Think I saw some recently on Ebay, just can't remember who was selling them. You check with Too Intense or Andy Russell?

Make sure you get the VIN number off the firewall over the brake master cylinder, I think that will at least solve the mystery as to which market the car was built for. The prefix should tell at least whether it was built for Europe/Asia or if it is a "hack-job".

Driving a Z even at 65mph on the interstate you will see a considerable difference in the handling with an airdam versus stock. It isn't just for looks, it does make a difference. I personally don't like the G-nose either, but I like an airdam. Different strokes, for different folks......

As far as I know MSA ships world-wide, although the shipping charges might be a bit steep. Check out their web-site www.zcarparts.com or e-mail them at motorsport@sbcglobal.net They are still in the process of setting up their web-site so you can order over the web, so you might be better off to e-mail them.

As far as it being a collector item, the 75-78 280's aren't getting the interest that the earlier 240's have. The 76 production numbers were in excess of 45,000 cars for that year which is considerably more than the 70-71's. A few more years and the 280's will probably increase in value as there will be more and more of them succumbing to the "rust monster". If it is a low mileage car, and is in very good condition it is possible it could still bring a price nearly that which it sold for new. If you take car of it and make sure it doesn't rust away, you could see the prices go up for the 280's in the next 5 years as the car will then be over 30 years old and who knows what the market for old Z cars will be at that time. If it is in as good condition as you describe, I would hang onto it, take care of it, and drive it and enjoy the ride!

Don't worry, they are fine. It's just the manufacturers way of being released from liability since they may not have DOT approval. Take the stickers off and no one will ever question them, if they are OK for racing, they must be OK for everyday street use. Every Z I have ever owned had the stainless lines on them, and they all had the same sticker that went in the trash.

If it really is in mint condition and there is no rust up underneath the rear lip around the latch mechanism, 120 is a very good price. I've seen them go for more than that, up to 200 so I say go for it!

If you are going to drop the tank, you might as wel go ahead and get all the hoses you will need to replace the vent lines and possibly a new fuel filler hose as well. You don't need to use the stock replacement vent lines, you can use other fuel hoses to do the job. The filler hose is more than likely hard as a rock, so it might be best to figure on replacing it as well. Blow out your lines after you pull the tank and remove the old filter to make sure they are clear. Be sure to soak the mounting bolts on the straps that hold the tank with a good penetrant for a day or so before you try to break them loose, with all the rust, road debris and perhaps some of the undercoating on them, they can be a PITA to get off. And the J-bolts are welded to the straps, so if one breaks, you have one more thing to repair. Be best to pull the tank drain, it's hard to handle when dropping the tank with any gas in it, unless you have a good set of helping hands.

Happy New Year everyone. Someone like to tell me where the last 5 years went to, let alone 2002??

Besides the camber bushings you can also get a kit from MSA and possibly Ground Control that gives you a camber adjustment at the top of the strut without slotting the mounting holes. It is a block of urethane that is slotted that takes the place of the strut insulator on the top, as Rick states, that is what prevents much movement at the top of the strut if you just slot the mounting holes. I used the set-up on the rear of the IT car I had along with the adjustable bushings in the rear. I purchased it from Ground Control, and it looks to be the same set-up that MSA is now selling. 100 dollars(US) a pair for these and they will give about 1.5 degrees adjustment. For another 200(US) you can get the adjustable lower bushings and that should give you another 1.5 degrees or so. Here's a pic of the set-up from their catalog, so you get the idea of how easy it is to use. The next thing that would be the hold up for more adjustment would be the springs with this set-up, the spring would hit the inside of the strut tower.

Compression on number 4 is 0? Eek, that isn't good. :sick: Sounds like number 4 is more than likely the cause of most if not all the problems then. Hard to say what it might be until you get the head off, but I'd say that a pressure test on the radiator isn't going to do much good. You might have a cracked head after all or a holed piston. If it were a head gasket blown you should at least find a little compression on the cylinder. Even a cracked head should some compression, it just wouldn't hold compression but for a very short time. I guess pulling the head would be your next step to find out how bad it is....:disappoin

There is also the slight possibility that the water could be getting in through the carbs if the car still has the flat top carbs with the water still connected to the carbs. The late carbs had water going through the carbs and the intake, so that is another possibility, albeit a very slim one. I have never heard of anyone having water enter through the carbs/intake but it is another place to look. If the smoking stopped after the engine warmed up, it could be the carbs as the thermostat would have closed on the intake and carbs (if it is still in working order that is) and that could explain the smoke stopping after the engine reached operating temp. It would be a one in a thousand chance that this could be the problem, but a possible one just the same if the car sat outside with no antifreeze in it and it got near freezing..... course it all depends on what area the car came from....

The only way to check the block at home would be to completely strip down the engine. You can buy a kit from someone like Eastwood's to check for cracks in the block. I find it kind of odd that the smoke quit after driving it for a while, usually it will still have a bit of smoke or vapor out the exhaust if the headgasket is leaking or the head is cracked/warped. Before you start taking it apart I would do a pressure check on the radiator, just to make sure you do have a leak that requires immediate attention. You might also do a compression test if you have the tester available. After you do the pressure check on the radiator, and it does lose a lot of pressure, pull the plugs and turn the engine over. You might be able to see which cylinder the water is gettting into and then you will have a good idea of where to check the head and/or head gasket when you do remove the head. This way you will know which cylinder is giving you the problem and if the head checks out OK and the gasket doesn't look to be blown, you will know where to look in the block for any problems. Don't know how well your toolbox is stocked, but most any decent shop could do the pressure test and compression test for a small charge. This could save you from a lot of head scratching later when you start taking the engine apart..

Z Kid, that's what I was wondering about. Since we only got the 260 for one year and you guys had them till 78, I was wondering when yours converted over to the Fuel Injection. The first year for our FI cars was 75 with the 280, I was thinking your 260's converted to FI in 75 also, or were all the 260's equipped with carbs? Our "carbed" 260's didn't have the fusible links like this so that was what had me confused.....

Guess the first thing would be to put her up on jackstands and drain the gas tank, blow out the lines and change the fuel filter. While you are doing that, you can replace any of the rubber fuel lines that look a bit dry-rotted in the engine compartment. Then after that, you could go with a full brake inspection, replacing the rubber lines if they are cracked, then on the each wheel one at a time. Once you have replaced and/or inspected the brakes, then it would be on to any other engine related things that need to be checked/done before you try to drive it. Such as a good flush of the radiator and block, changing the oil and filter, new plugs etc.... The tires would be the last thing on the list, not much sense in spending the money on them if the car isn't ready to drive.... I wouldn't worry about any surface rust on the outside of the body until you are ready to take it all back apart for a re-paint or repair. While you are on your back under the car whild it is safely on jackstands, take the time to look over the underside carefully for any hidden rust pockets or any spots which may need attention soon. Make a list of things you want to do, and just cross them off one at a time, that way you don't forget anything and have to take something apart after you have put it together.... For instance, don't put the wheels back on until you have checked to make sure you have no leaks in the rear brake cylinders after you service the brakes and bleed them. Saves a lot of time and aggravation.....

That's the one! Remember, if the price gets too high, you can always get one at Sears that will work just as well.....