2ManyZs

Only way you can find a cars true color is to look on the firewall under the dash or someplace that is usually not painted when most people change the color. There are no records of VIN numbers, with color, options etc.. like you can research for a lot of US made cars, unfortunately.:disappoin Shame Nissan never put a tag on the car somewhere that had all the pertinent info that could be de-coded to find a cars original condition as it came from the factory.

Guess maybe he should have saved his money a week longer.... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2411153719&category=6737

If it's just a heater core missing, MSA has them for about 150 new in their latest catalog.

I never got too attached to any of my parents dogs (Pekingese, no wonder....) but I sometimes wonder if when the day comes I lose this one, if I will have another after her or not. There's no way I could ever luck out and get one that is anything like her..... She turned 4 on December 30th, so hopefully she'll be here to keep us company for a few years to come... Sorry to hear about your loss, I guess only "true" pet owners can understand the empty feeling.

I love it even thought it's not real leather, but "imitation leather" (naugahide).....For under 150 bucks I can't complain. It's got a lot of padding and fits my hands perfectly... even better than the wheel I had in the race car.

Here's a pic of my "cheapo" Grant wheel... And don't ask me where the horn button came from cuz I can't remember....:stupid: But now that i think about it, I think it came with the wheel when I got it from MSA years ago.... They don't have this one in their new catalog, but the 50-3116 "Autocross" is nearly the same thing...

Big round thing under the dash? You mean outside water got into the heater box and into the fan?:cross-eye One of the places it could have came in is around the heater hoses where they come through the firewall, have you checked the grommets? That's about the only way I can think water form outside could get into the heater box. There should be a runner plug under the ash try in the tunnel, it's there to drain water out, so if it's in bad shape it could be letting water in.... Never had one get water under there before. You might also want to check your windshield wiper arm grommets, as that could also be part of the water getting in behind the dash.

Hmm, wouldn't ya know the manual I've got has diagrams for 75-77... Having some troubles trying to scan them so they are legible too...:stupid: I'll figure it out sooner or later...:cross-eye

I could try to scan one out of an old Haynes manual, but what year do you/they need?

I don't know about Accords or Hondas much in general, but i do know a lot of models of VW's came with Recaro's... GTI's and such.. you could probably find a number of them sitting in junkyards somewhere...

Ok, thanks Alan. I knew a car of that caliber and with a value like that it wouldn't have just disappeared. Yeah, it's got the cross-flow head in the article, looked pretty odd when I first saw it. Back in 94 or 95 I didn't know that head even existed.... Glad it's somewhere safe and sound and being taken care of. I don't know if the guy will ship overseas, but here's a copy of the Premier issue of ZCar magazine on Ebay right now that has the article. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=2241&item=3511644023

Not sure, but according to the article it sounds like it might have been Geoff Jackson's personal car perhaps? It's a 71, with a beautiful translucent red paint job done to the "nth" degree. Not only that, but a 10K stereo, a white leather interior, a 255hp L-28..... It was written up in the article as perhaps the most expensive Z in the world, being valued at 70K.:cross-eye I'm just curious if the car is still currently in his possesion or if it is still being street driven or if it has ended up in someone's collection. Here's a pic I scanned out of the old magazine...only wish my scanner was big enough to get the centerfold pic...

I like all of the ones that don't have the wood & leather George.... Call it personal preference but I never liked a wheel with all those seams.... Fighter, Club4, Race then Champion would be my choices in descending order... I've got a Grant race wheel in mine and love it as it has a thick rim and looks quite similar to the Race wheel in the pics, except mine has black spokes.

www.IOPortRacing.com www.pegasusautoracing.com Those are the two I can think of without dragging out old magazines for the classified ads....Actually I think Pegasus is dealer for IOPort.... Unless you want to step up to the big leagues and get a video system? www.seawood.com/rcs/bugoff.htm http//www.Racecam.com

Try some Berkebile 2+2 Instant Gum Cutter.... it's in a red,white and blue aerosol can and it works darn good on carbs. Never tried it yet on carbon build-up in the head but it does work on build-up in carbs so it might do fairly well.....Be careful though, it will take off paint as well so be aware of where you are pointing it...:cross-eye

Whoa Mike... I'm not that old ya know...:cross-eye I've been messing with them for just a little over 20 years... I'm going to put my 2 cents in on the subject of the car. First, it is a low mileage car that has been stored away and pretty much neglected for a long period of time. Interior looks damn good, but the car still has issues that need to be addressed before it could be even driven out of the storage unit. Second, the Z market isn't to the point of the US muscle cars of that time period, which is good for those of us who might be in the market to buy a car. We just recently saw a genuine Z Store factory restored car sell for just a bit over 17K on Ebay, which would indicate that it better be almost a 100% perfect car to bring over 12 or 13 thousand, or have a very desirable history, such as being owned by someone we all in high regard in the history of the Z car. Third, it's a 73, which makes it a bit less desirable than a 70 or early 71. More desirable than a 74 and up car, but if it were an early model, then it would be a different story altogether. It doesn't seem that the car needs a whole lot of work, although what it does need could end up being fairly costly in the long run. I guess my question is this. Why would someone store it away for that long a period of time and not bring it out and fix what it needs to be road worthy? If the owner were to replace the weatherstripping, belts, hoses, and verify the mechanical condition of the car and perhaps have the paint buffed out, then the asking price would be pretty attainable in my opinion. It seems odd that someone would store a car for that time period and hope to sell it in the condition it is in now, when they could get more for it just by getting the car road worthy and perhaps polishing it up a bit. If this car were taken somewhere, for a grand or so in parts he/she could probably ask and receive 13K or more with no problem. But unfortunately as it sits, it's going to be tough to get the asking price.

This may not be on the subject, but whatever happened to the car that Fourways restored and was the subject of an article in the old Z Car magazine Premier issue in 94? Paul, car looks great, and at least it's in good company when parked... I have to agree with Alan, it sure looks odd seeing one without both rear quarters, kinda make you realize why these cars have been attacked by the rust monsters so badly... I've had Z's for 20 years and have yet to win the Lotto so I could drive a Ferrari.....:disappoin

There's only one way to get it off George, you have to pull the whole hub/rotor assembly to get to the 4 Phillips head screws that mount it. Once the hub is off, use an impact driver or a good set of Vice-Grips to break the screws loose, they usually are rusted and very difficult to remove without stripping the heads.... When you put it back on, you can always replace the screws with hex head bolts.

Hmm, never knew there were so many either.... Since you have an L-28 flywheel and a 72 I'd go with the late 72 bolts...the 12315-42L11's

You can use the 15/16 master cylinder from a 280ZX or you can use the stock master cylinder, as either one will bolt up to the stock master vac. I would do the swap first, then if you want, you can swap the master later. You might find that you will use more pedal travel with the rear discs especially if you go to the four piston front capipers at the same time. If you want to get the pedal travel back more to what it was before the swap, then use the 15/16 master.

Well, actually that would be a lower ratio, remember, higher numerical number is actually a lower ratio.... You've more than likely got a 3.54 or 3.70 now, so going a bit higher numerically will help... but, the biggest help will be to make sure all the engine systems are in top condition. A diet for the car would be the second best thing you could do...as they are considerably heavier than an early car.

I guess to follow on what Walter said, you'd also have to take into account Mr. K's influence on the advertising of the Z car in the US at the time also. I think he understood why the British sports cars were selling so well in the mid to late 60's. Cheap, simple, reliable(well, sometimes anyways) and most of all they were nearly all 2 seat cars. Now during those years, the VW's were selling like the proverbial "hotcakes" at the time, but can anyone really get in the back seat of a Bug? If you look at the numbers of Jaguar XKE's sold in the US, I think you would probably see a similar drop in sales when the 2+2's were introduced. People get used to something in one way and resist it when someone tries to change it, almost like everytime a new OS is introduced for the computers we use.... we get used to one thing and don't really want to change until someone forces us too....... Now, if the 2+2's had been imported from the beginning of sales in the US, you probably would have seen much higher sales numbers. Now, if we had never seen a 2 seat model, would the 2+2's have sold in the same number as the 2 seaters? Good question....

Two things come to mind right off the bat.. coil and/or water control valve... Try a different coil first, then try blocking the water from the manifold if you still are using the original 73 manifold. Could be on the borderline of vapor lock if the water control valve is sticking partially open. Another idea is points and condensor, how long since they were changed and/or adjusted?

Well, don't take the 100 dollar quote to heart... it's just a wild guess... but the main thing is, it will depend on who is carrying it.... Make sure it's crated good, some of these carriers are a bit rough in their handling... I know, I used to work for Overnight Transp...:cross-eye

Like EScanlon suggested, I would find a machine shop "friend" or someone at a dealership that might help you out. They usually get a better rate than an individual can from one of the larger freight companies... I've had an engine shipped to me in the past along with some other large items and shipping was not bad at all, less than 200 coast to coast. Try a freight outfit such as Roadway, ABF, Yellow, Red Star, and if their rates are a bit high, try one of the larger non-union outfits such as Con-Way, or whichever one of their subsidiaries they have in Texas now, CCX or whichever. Ca to Texas shouldn't cost much more than 100 bucks depending on the carrier.