2ManyZs

Here's a few places to look for links to groups in your area... http://scca.org/ http://www.icscc.com/ http://www.racinlinks.com/ http://www.nasaproracing.com/

Look here: http://www.geocities.com/zgarage2001/engine.html BTW, bookmark that site as it has a lot of good info, it will answer quite a few questions that might come up on a lot of issues.

I can't believe it won't come off with the putty knife trick George... double check you have all the bolts out? Just keep at it, and don't forget to go around it on the front side where it meets the front cover. If nothing else, use a good stiff bladed carpet knife or utility knife to cut between the pan and the gasket. If you have all the bolts out, it's gotta come off sooner or later.....

If you have a stiff putty knife, tap it in around the pan to break the gasket loose, actually to cut the gasket as much as release it's grip on the pan and block. Go all the way around it and when you have gone all the way around it, take the putty knife and twist it to loosen the pan. The reason you don't want to use a screwdriver is because it puts pressure one such a small area it will bend the flange on the pan, using a putty knife will spread the force out. Probably someone has used a sealant on the pan gasket and it is well sealed.

Last one....

And yet again...

Nuther one...

And.....

Another one.....

For those of you who sit behind a desk all day....

Works cars: Built, maintained, driven by factory employed drivers. Semi-works: Built by the factory and sold to an independently run, financed team with their own drivers. Usually given parts at discount prices in exchange for advertising the manufacturers.... That about right? I see a huge number of Lancias.... nice to see som eof their vintage cars are still on the roads, they were a terror there for quite a while.... But, I have one question, is that really a 2CV or was that a trick camera shot?:cross-eye

I just received a post card from a cousin, seems I have a second cousin(her son) who is undertaking a hike this summer on the Appalachian Trail. He recently started out on his summer long journey, and his girlfriend has started a web-site to track his progress with pics and descriptions of his adventure. So, if any of you are into nature walks and the like, here a link to his site. If you wish, you can leave him a message on the site and give him some encouragement. It ought to be a shock to him if he starts getting words of encouragement from all over the world. :devious: You can use the contact on his web-site if you would like to send him an "atta-boy" and tell him where you are from, just so he knows he's being watched....... http://www.kayakinstruction.us/at/ Glad it's him doing this, he and I are almost the same age and I know I wouldn't want to try to tackle a 1200+ mile walk.....makes me sore just thinking about it.....

If you can do it legally, I strongly suggest de-smogging it if you plan to run the flat tops. That will help tremendously, and so will blocking off the water to the manifold and carbs. I had good luck running flat tops on my first Z after I did the above items, it ran like crap until I de-smogged it and blocked off the water. With a good cleaning and a re-build, and doing the above mentioned items and you should have a set of carbs that are as good as the downdraft Webers IMO.

Sounds to me like worn ball joints, tie rod ends are the most likely culprit for the shake while driving. It will be even more pronounced if the brake rotors are worn out of true even slightly, as the steering has play in it to begin with. I'd check the tie rods, ball joints, steering rack bushings first. See if this is causing the shake while driving (it could be also in the wheel bearings, tire and/or wheels as well) and if you fix the shake except under braking you will know you need to do some brake rotor/caliper repairs as well. It's probably best to fix one part at a time. It could be in the steering which can be fixed rather easily without tearing too much apart. If it cures the problem, you can save yourself the aggravation of having replaced a lot of parts without knowing for sure where the problem was originally.

I'd have to agree that it is probably an internal problem with the trans, possibly a bent shift fork or a bent roll pin in the fork is not engaging 3rd gear all the way on the countershaft. If it were the clutch, it would more than likely slip in all the gears, especially 1st and 2nd where it has more torque on it due to the gearing. It could also be something as simple as the shifter bushings as well that are contributing to it. Is this a later B model or the early A model? I have an A model that shifts fine in all gears except for 3rd as well, 3rd is almost impossible to even find and after the shifter finally gets it in gear, you can move the shifter around as if it were in neutral. I haven't torn it down yet to find the culprit, but it's internal on mine...:disappoin

Before you do anything else, you should verify the cable is working properly. It might be possible that it is loose on the backside of the control panel, the cable shield is clamped to the framework of the control panel. It might be loose or stripped of its covering and the whole cable assembly is moving instead of the cable connected to the heater control valve. It should work stiffly enough that it will hold the control valve at whatever setting you choose.

I got a mesh grill just a few months ago from www.nismoparts.com I don't know if they still have them or not, so you'll have to ask them. Click on catalog on their main page and enter a search for part number 62300-N3000, it is listed as available for 110, but that doesn't guarantee it is still available. The mirrors are NLA, but I know of one supplier who can get a few sets if you want to spend $385.00 for a new pair...:cross-eye I hope you were sitting down when you read that.:disappoin MSA has the "Spook" front airdam in their latest catalog, so they may be your best choice for that, they have either the ducted or non-ducted listed for $104.95 If you really have to have the fender mirrors, PM me and I'll give you the part numbers and the supplier who said they could get them....

Check with our advertiser, Too Intense. They are on his web-site, not sure how his supply is at the moment. They are a bit pricey though, but that probably has to do with their scarcity.... 69.95(US) each:cry: http://www.datsunrestore.com/photo3.html

Looks great George... Only thing I'd change is a better set of mirrors, don't want any flashing lights sneaking up on you...:devious:

This one isn't in the area you are looking for, but they have the best prices on Panasports any of us has found yet.... http://www.daveturner.com/panasport.html

Not sure, but I think that is the factory primer... mine has the same thing under a very, very light coat of body color.

The reason the nights are so quiet is the "Frods" and "Chibbies" are being rebuilt to keep up with the mighty Mopars....

Mark, cutting the floors probably will be a simple job if they have a plasma cutter. The main thing is to get all the tar mat off the floor and up the tunnel about 3 inches or so and get all the old undercoating off the underside. This is what will cost the most if you have someone else do the job, it's a tedious and time consuming task, and when you are paying them by the hour, they won't hurry....:cross-eye

Well, Rusty is now back on my favorites list since they got smart and are now running MOPARS! Anybody driving a MOPAR powered car is OK with me......:devious:

"Steam cleaning" is nothing more than hot water through a pressure hose. If you use the right cleaner, you really only need a pressure washer. Spray the inside of the cap and rotor with WD-40 before you start, and if it won't start afterwards, spray a little more in the cap and in the ends of the plug wires... I've used full strength Simple Green, let it soak a bit, and then used the pressure washer on the parts car and got pretty good results. Car hasn't run in 10 years so I don't know if it did anything or not....