2ManyZs

Well, if it came from Florida, this is more than likely what we had as a 74 1/2 model. It originally came with the big 280 style bumpers and fuel injection. Someone has taken the FI off and installed the carbs. Alfadog, we only got the 260 for one year in the States. First half of 74 was with the flat top carbs and small 240 style bumpers. Then the big bumpers and FI the second half of the year. Then they went to the 75 280 which was essentially the same. Something you folks "down under" didn't have to worry about since you had the 260 until the ZX's came out in 79.

Wonder if she has a twin sister that likes Z cars. I don't mean the dog either!! Better not let Mike see her, he may try to talk her into modeling the Club merchandise when he gets the store in operation. :cross-eye

Yup, if the injectors keep clogging up it has to be coming from somewhere, more than likely the tank either has some rust in it, or it has collected a lot of junk from bad gas over the years. I'd say it may be rust, if you pull the filter and find any sediment at all it would indicate rust is coming from the tank. You might be further ahead to go ahead and pull the tank if that is the case, that way you can replace any vent lines that may be needing replacement, fix the fuel gauge, and fix the car at the same time. If you do unhook the lines form the tank, be sure to blow them out good with compressed air to free any sediment that may be caught in the lines.

I saw one in there for 900 bucks in Williamsville, NY. Said no rust but needs work.

With carbs I would use a regulator to keep form over-pressurizing the float bowls and having problems with the carbs. Some electric pumps will put out too much pressure for some of the older carbs like SU's and even Webers. Not a bad idea IMO, just to be sure.

Being able to do the repair isn't the problem, it's getting it done properly in the first place. If it were my car, I'd take it somewhere that knows what they are doing. Don't take it somewhere that has never seen a Z or worked on older model cars. The person responsible for the damage should pay for every cent of the damage with no reservations, or else it's time to get nasty!:devious: Two little words will open a lot of checkbooks when you get rear ended like that, and I think you know which ones they are. :classic:

I guess the girl is smiling because after the puppy devoured the Big Mac, large fries and the hot apple pie she still has a hand to hold her drink? Hope the one in the car is the one you are sending to obedience school. If not, you are already in so much trouble you may as well just give it up and go yourself.:cross-eye

I agree, it sounds like you have a problem in the tank that is causing your injector fouling. I'd suggest trying to find the problem before you do any other work. Take a look at this: www.gastankrenu.com Or for a do-it-yourself kit try www.eastwoodcompany.com Unless you planning major modifications to your engine to support the triples, I think a big throat throttle body, free breathing air filter, and a good flowing exhaust will wake up the car nearly as much as a set of triples for a lot less money. You can also get high flow injectors to go along with them, but they end up being kinda expensive. You could try a set of injectors for a Turbo ZX for a little more flow, haven't heard of many people trying this, but it ought to work just fine. Besides, while people are having all sorts of problems with cold starts with carbs, most of the time you can just laugh at them when you just hit the key and drive away. One of the plusses of fuel injection.

Yup, it's well over 900 now. :stupid: I've been tinkering with Z's for about 20 years now, thought I knew quite a bit about them, until I found this site anyways. Still a lot of things to be learned form people who have experiences with parts of the cars that I have never explored. The best thing about having so many members is that sooner or later someone knows the answer to a question since they may have had the same experience with their car. :cheeky:

Well, now that I can look in the FSM, I was off a little on the turns lock to lock. The FSM says 2 3/4. I measured the stock and short arms I have. Stock overall length is 7 1/2 inches approx. Short ones are 7 inches approx. From the body of the strut where they meet the steering arm to the rear of the arm where the tie rod mounts is: Stock- 2 1/2 inches Short- 2 inches Not much difference, unless you measure them you won't be able to see it. I think with the short arms the turns lock to lock was 2 on the IT car I had, right now I don't have one together to find out for sure.

Back in the old days, (see, there are others who can say that) I was a diesel mechanic so I had a good start on a complete set of tools. Since that time, I have had a bit of a tool fetish, so now I have some tools that I have never used. But it sure beats not having them when you need them. I did mine in one afternoon, both sides, that included disassembling the struts and control arms, sandblasting and painting and then re-assembling them. If you don't have the tools to do the job, you will be much further off sending them to a shop or a friend who does. BTW a cheap air chisel is worth it's weight in gold for this job. You can usually buy one for less than 50 bucks with a couple different chisel attachments. If you don't have an air compressor or access to one you are up the proverbial "creek".

If you only drove it 12 miles without transmission fluid, it probably hasn't done any permanent damage yet. Just don't drive it till you have refilled it and then it's time to find out why the repair shop took the plug out in the first place (if they did). The drain plug on the bottom as a 1/2 inch socket head, the one with the square head is used on the fill plug, the drain plug should be one with a socket head so that it can't get ground off in the even of an "off road excursion" or whatever. If it ever did get the square head ground off, it would be nearly impossible to remove it. I have used Red Line's MTL(Manual transmission lubricant) in all my Z's since I raced years ago, it is a bit lighter viscosity than the mineral based lubes and it is a bit easier to shift with it. It is a bit expensive, but you should only need two quarts to fill the trans. You can get it from Pegasus Racing supplies(I put their link in the web-links) or any other racing parts supplier.

As far as merchandise from this site, t-shirts, hats, etc. We are working on a store to be in operation in the next month or so. Mike(Administrator) is going out of the country for three weeks and we will be back to work on it as soon as he gets back from his "vacation". Not sure where you can find other logo merchandise without doing a search for it. Another possibilty is finding shirts and such from clubs for the Z and 510. Plenty of clubs have their own shirts to advertise their club.

Biggest downfall I see trying to use one on a Z would be the fact that you would have to fabricate the crossmembers to mount the front of the rear and the rear crossmember for the coil over shocks you would need to use. Not a good thing if you want to keep the Z in somewhat original condition. If you are planning extensive mods anyway it is feasible. I have an old issue of Hot Rod magazine where they took a Z and put a V-8 in it and fabricated a four link and used a 9 inch Ford rear end. It was a really sweet looking car when they finished, with the body mods they did it was a good looking car, even if it was in Hot Rod.

If you don't there will be plenty of people here interested. Seriously, for that price, if it is a one owner, with 90K, no major rust problems, even in non-running condition it is a good buy! Z's have none of the Lucas electric problems, but they do suffer from rust issues, something you should already be used to with Triumphs.

Since I'm not at home and don't have a FSM in front of me, I'm guessing here at about 3 to 3 1/2 turns lock to lock. I've got the short arms on mine at home, I can take a measurement if needed so you can compare the stock to the short ones. only problem is I won't be home till Tuesday morning. :tapemouth

Pretty sure the front fenders are a simple bolt on. The rears would be bonded on or screwed on with sheet metal screws more than likely. It would be best to leave most of the rear stock quarter in place since it is structural, not sure if they would have radiused and rewelded the fender lips or not. Depends on how good of a job they did when they installed it. Might be able to remove them fairly easily unless they are bonded on, that would make it much more difficult than if they were just screwed or riveted on and then molded into the existing quarter with bondo or fiberglass. They had a wire mesh screen in the rear quarter vents if I remember the original kit correctly, and I think there may have been screen in the front fender vents in front of the doors. Sounds like it might be at least worth taking a second look at the car just to see how it was done and if you could take them off easily. Fiberglass is easier to "play" with than steel, at least you can cover small mistakes easier.

Don't know what it costs now, but years ago it was one of the only body kits available and it definately wasn't cheap when JCR sold it. Take a look and see if this isn't the same one. www.showcars-bodyparts.com/240z.html Look near the bottom of the page for The California Z.

Have you tried calling MSA? They may have a supplier for them, sometimes they can get parts that are not listed in the catalog. If not there, try Bonzai Motorworks or Too Intense Restorations or one of the other site listed in the web links under Z car businesses.

It's a pre-muffler or resonator, whichever you want to call it. I think the first of the Z's that had a catalytic converter was the 79 ZX.

I would suspect the neutral safety switch first. The inhibitor, thermo and thermo relay probably can be gotten rid of as well as the kickdown switch, the kickdown solenoid and the neutral safety switch. However I wouldn't pull any of them until you find out where the open circuit is to allow you to start the car. I'd look into the neutral safety switch as the one most likely to be causing the no-start problem. Once you get the car in running condition again, you can try to take off one unneeded switch at a time, so that you don't end up with another open circuit. You may need to jump the switches with hard wired jumpers to get rid of what you don't need. BTW, the diagrams I have don't show a yellow wire to the coil. Has this been added or been modified? Only two I see on all the diagrams are a black ground, and a black and white hot wire. The solenoid you are hearing click may be the accessory solenoid on the kick panel. Sounds like a good job for Daniel. Wonder where he's been hiding lately.

Two choices. One is to buy a dedicated pilot bushing puller or you can try the old fashioned way. If you have a clutch alignment tool, take a gob of wheel bearing grease and put it into the bushing. Now take your alignment tool (or anything that fits the inside of the bushing tightly, a wood dowel will also work well) and tap it into the bushing with a hammer. The force of the grease being squeezed into the void behind the bushing should force it out to where you can get ahold of it. It usually works with no problems. If the bushing is really corroded, or has been set into the crank snout too far it may take a few tries, just pack a little more grease in and try again.

Hmmm, let's see. Working on my 19th year driving a tractor trailer, covered 39 states and nearly 2 million miles. Got more stories than you could ever imagine! Add a new one every day.:tapemouth :cross-eye I can't even begin to remember all of them.:dead:

Well, one thing that could be a problem. Have you replaced the coil lately? It could possibly be the coil breaking down after it has run a while due to the heat of the resistance in the coil. Just though you might want to try another one if you hadn't already. If not that, it could be the ballast resistor if you are still running one. Secondly, have you checked your points out closely? The second set of points is there to retard the timing, could be it is being retarded too much. Just a random thought. Only problem with adjusting the valve is this, if the valve springs are getting soft, you can adjust till your fingers bleed, and they won't act any different. If they are still the originals, they may need to be replaced.

Sounds like the California Z kit that Jim Cook racing used to sell. You can still find it in the autobodyparts web site. It's a pretty decent looking kit except for the square headlight , they just don't seem to fit on an early Z. Probably most people just bonded the rear fender flares over top of the existing quarters to save time and money with body modifications.