2ManyZs

If the weathersrtipping is not cracked or show signs of dry rot, I'd leave it alone for now. I've had them come loose before on the corners, I used a little weatherstrip adhesive to keep it in place. If you are careful it won't show. It's even tougher to get the trim into a new weatherstrip. Not so bad on the corners but the long side pieces do take a little finesse to install without bending the trim. :tapemouth

If it is just the hoses, Motorsport used to have replacement hoses for the injectors. Haven't received their newest catalog yet, so you may want to check with them. If it is the injector body itself or the mounting ring under them, I would replace them all at the same time. There is also an o-ring on the injector where it mounts into the intake manifold, it may be these are bad. If 2 are gone, the rest are not far from failure. It's a bit of a pain to take the fuel rail apart (lots of clamps to take off) to replace just two, so if you are going to do two you may as well do the rest. You really should do a good job checking these out and replacing any of the hoses that are hardened, they will crack and leak with the fuel pressure in the rail and it may cause a serious fire. No sense losing your car because you didn't do a thorough job the first time it was taken apart. It's probably a two hour job for one person to replace all the hoses and injectors. Be careful not to force the injector harness plugs or lose the clips that hold them. The plugs and clips can be purchased form MSA, but if you are careful you may not need them.

Does the total price include a garage to keep them in, tools to work on them, and all the spare parts? If so, then I don't want to even think about how much I have spent in the last twenty years since I bought my first Z. :tapemouth Guess you could say I went a little overboard with my obsession.

4 men at a table talking about their pets. One was an Accountant, one a Chemist, one an Engineer and the fourth is a Government Worker. To show off, the Engineer calls to his cat, "T-square, do your stuff." T-square pranced over to a desk, took out some paper and a pen and promptly drew a circle, a square, and a triangle. Everyone agreed that was pretty smart. But, the accountant said his cat could do better. He called his cat and said, "Spreadsheet, do your stuff." Spreadsheet went out in the kitchen and returned with a dozen cookies. He divided them up into four equal piles of three cookies each. Everyone agreed that was good. But the Chemist said his cat could do better. He called his cat and said,"Test tube, do your stuff." Test tube got up, walked over to the fridge, took out a quart of milk, got a ten-ounce glass from the cupboard and poured exactly eight ounces without spilling a drop. Everyone agreed that was pretty good. Everyone turned to the Government Worker and asked, "What can YOUR cat do?" The government worker called his cat and said, "Coffee break, do your stuff." Coffee break jumped to his feet, ate the cookies, drank the milk, peed on the paper, sexually assaulted the other three cats, claimed he injured his back while doing so, filed a grievance for unsafe working conditions, put in for Workers Compensation and went home for the rest of the day on sick leave.

I for one am totally against using spacers unless it's an absolute necessity. Now, a spacer that is 1/2 inch or less isn't going to affect the geometry to the point of a failure. But anything more than that is asking for trouble IMO. Yes, you are applying a lot more stress to the hub and bearings if you use a spacer, how much depends on the thickness of the spacer. The leverage being to the studs,hubs, and bearings applied is being increased as you move the wheel further form the mounting flange. Not only that, but because the tire and wheel package are so large they increase the amount of contact patch, therefore the side loading of the tire that is being transferred into the bearings and hubs. You will also increase the stress on the entire suspension as well as the bearings. Most suspensions were designed to work with a certain amount of side loadings and the bearings, hubs and such were sized according to a certain size and placement of the wheel. You may even affect the roll center of the suspension, and the bump steer when you use a wheel that will require a spacer. I'm not an engineer, but there would be a formula somewhere that would give the exact difference in forces, it's all in the leverage. If you have to use a spacer, use the the smallest one possible. Think of it this way. If your arm were the spindle, and you were to have two tires mounted to your arm, which would put less stress on your arm. One that has the centerline of the wheel at your elbow, or one where the centerline of the wheel is at your wrist?

If it is really your beloved 72 as you state, you really need to fix it correctly with new floor pans and frame rails before it falls apart and ends up putting you in the hospital or something even worse. I really hate to hear the word "bolted" when used in reference with a unibody repair. If it were my car it would either be fixed right or scrapped by now. Sorry, but you shouldn't make something like this public if you don't want to hear other peoples opinions, especially ones that chastise you for something as irresponsible as this. I doubt that the car is safe to drive. Period.

Beside the ones mentioned you can take a look at what Too Intense Restorations and Bonzai Motorworks has for interior restorations. Too Intense has some seat covers, shift boot and vinyl pieces along with carpet listed on Ebay right now if you are quick enough, I think the auctions go on a few more days on some of the parts.

We work our finger to the bone and the Boss is out having all the fun!! It's just not fair. You should have taken a few of us with you for "moral support" if nothing else.:devious: :tapemouth

Only thing I see wrong with the photo is that I'm not in it!!! :mad: Let's see, me, my dog, and a beautiful female, oh well, it's nice to dream huh?:cross-eye You shouldn't have too much trouble with it with a hydraulic clutch. It would be a lot stiffer if you had a mechanical linkage trying overcome the heavy springs used in the pressure plate with a puck type plate. Your leg would surely get a work out. Gotta love that color!!

Not sure if the whole booster assembly will work or not. I'm willing to bet not many people have tried it since all they have to do is use the later 15/16 master on the one they have. If the booster you have is OK then I'd save the money for now and just go with the master swap.

He has them on Ebay right now. Item number 18489696078 $145 buy it now price. Better hurry!

I never used them on a street car, but I did on the race car. If you plan on autocrossing in the future it would be a good investment. Are they a necessity on the street? Maybe. It might stiffen up the chassis enough to affect the ride, then again it might not have any effect depending on your suspension set-up. If you are running a stock set-up, they probably won't help much at all, if you have modified the suspension, they probably would be a benefit. I guess it is all up to you, if you have something that is more important to spend your money on for the car now, I think they could wait a while. If you are really serious, the only strut bar that will make a definate and huge improvement in the chassis of a Z would be the one that was advertised here that ties into the frame rail and the firewall. Just tying the tops of the two towers together only limits the flex of the chassis in one plane, the towers may not flex, but what they are tied to might. Sorry, not much of a decisive answer, but hopefully you get the point of what I'm trying to say. :cross-eye

95% right Ed, the 260's with the small 240 type bumpers had the flat top carbs(not good) and the later 74 1/2 model with the 280 type bumpers had the Fuel Injection. They changed it in the middle of the 74 model year. About the cams, yes there are a few different cam specs to choose from. I would not go too radical if you plan on running the car on the street, you'll have vaccum problems. Go with a "middle of the road" cam grind for the street, you don't need the powerband in the upper rpm range on the street. Go with a cam that gives you good power in the 1500-5000 rpm range. You can find cams at a bunch of the Z engine suppliers, or Motorsport Auto has them. You can find many of these companies here on the site in the web-links section under Z car businesses. About your head, are you sure it isn't an E-31? There was no E-41 that I'm aware of. If it is an E-31 it will be a good head to use as it will give you a bit higher compression ratio. Search thru the forums here under Engines and you should be able to answer nearly all your questions from reading previous posts. If you have any other questions just post it in the forums and someone will be able to help you with nearly any question you may have.

It does look like a complete chassis, which is more than some people can say when they start tearing into their cars. That and a parts car to go with it might be just what someone is looking for. One thing about it, if you don't like the way the car looks, you can change it quite easily.:cross-eye Never know, there might be a treasure trove of good useable parts there. If the chassis is clean and fairly free of rust it would make an excellent project car for someone who doesn't already have a Z. It is quite possible someone could make out like a :bandit: with a basic chassis and a ton of parts to play with or re-sell to finance their toy habit. I'd much rather start with a car that looks like this than the one I have for parts in my backyard. My parts car hasn't looked as good as this one in probably ten years.

If any of you are interested, go to the Classic Datsun Motorsports web-site and look under Cars for Sale. The Silvia I saw on Ebay is now advertised there. This car has a little history to go along with it to make it more interesting.

If the fusible link did burn up, you might be wise to check for the cause of it before you try to re-start the car.You said the dome light blew? You may need to get yourself a new voltage regulator while you are at the parts store. Only 20 odd bucks, but might be good insurance.

We really didn't need to know that Rick. My brother is involved in a web-site called of all things Bombs-away.com so I sent this one to him and asked him if it was one of their members.:stupid:

Looks like I wasn't the only one to get that one. Glad I won't be there when he says "Bombs Away!"ROFL :devious:

You're right, all those girls would be more than I could handle at once. But one at a time would be no problem to a SINGLE man! :cross-eye

Pretty sure I saw this on another web-site. I'm fairly sure it's a Japanese model car, so the clear front lenses and mesh grill are probably stock. The Fairlady's all had the mesh grill and clear front signal lenses as did the 432's. Only thing that makes me wonder is the side mirrors, which would more than likely have been on the fenders. Hmm, maybe an import into Japan?

Before you change the mixture, check out your plugs. After running it for a while, try to shut if off without too much idling time to get a good reading on the plugs. It may be the paint on the header is what is causing them to turn the white-ish color, some header paints aren't what they claim to be and burn off easily. I've seen them anywhere from dark gray to brown to snow white the first 4-6 inches of the tubes, all because the so-called black header paint was garbage. If your plugs don't indicate a lean condition, you'll either have to live with it, or take the header back off, sandblast it, and try another header coating. No sense in jumping the gun and changing anything till you know for sure what is causing the problem. :cross-eye

If you mean the front air dam, it looks like a common urethane air dam, most any Z parts supplier has one like it. This one looks a little different in that most have brake cooling ducts, while this one is solid. Also available in fiberglass, but they don't stand up well to curbs as well as the urethane.

Personally, I don't want kids, but they better love my dog or they are history.:stupid: :cheeky: I'd "settle" for the one on the far right. You guys can fight over the "scraps".:cross-eye

They would have to supply a huge pile of cash and even more beautiful women to make me buy one. Call it an incentive!:devious: Let's see, with me in the pic you would have the Good(me), the Bad(hopefully at least one of the girls), and the Ugly. :stupid:

As far as mechanicals go, there won't be much difference at all. Transmission is a bit different (different shifter), slight variations in the carbs, manifolds and linkages, but for the most part they are alike enough to get by. Biggest difference would be in the electrical, many of the wiring harnesses are not compatible between the years, however the basic wiring should be quite similar. An FSM is better than some of the other manuals out there, so even if it isn't for the correct year, it's still better than a Chiltons manual!