2ManyZs

Sorry, only thing to make it sound like a V-8 would be to put a V-8 in it. Firing order, number of cylinders, and the exhaust pulses of a V-8 only happen in a V-8. A lower, deeper, tone can be had by large diameter pipe, and a turbo muffler. Not the "tinny" or high pitched wail like you would get from small diameter pipe(or pipes) and a glass pack or straight thru muffler. Headers will help more than hurt. Once on, checking the mixture is always a good idea as it may lean out the cylinders since they(the header) are scavenging the exhaust better.

Darn, did ya have to warn him? I thought we would leave that as a surprise. Now all he has to do is get the other 999! Sorry Michael, I have the pics you want,and you can't have them!:tapemouth :cheeky:

Maybe she liked having the lights off, sounds like she may have cold hands too.:cheeky:

Be careful of what you wear (or don't wear) when working under your vehicle.....especially in public. From the Northwest Florida Daily News come this story: A Crestview couple drove their car to Wal-Mart only to have it break down in the parking lot. The man told his wife to carry on with the shopping while he fixed the car there in the lot. The wife returned later to find a group of people near the car. On closer inspection she saw a pair of male legs protruding from under the chassis. Although the man was in shorts, his lack of underpants turned private parts into glaringly public ones. Unable to stand the embarrassment any longer, she dutifully stepped forward, quickly put her hand UP his shorts and tucked everything back into place. On regaining her feet she looked across the hood and found herself staring at her husband as he stood idly by. The mechanic, however, had to have three stitches in his head.

Well, can't answer the CG question unless I find the diagram. As far as whether or not to cut the upper bump stops, that depends on how you plan to use the car. If it's a street only car, I wouldn't bother. If you plan on the occasional autoX I would go ahead and trim off 1/2 to 3/4 inch, especially if you are using the Eibach progressive springs. The progressives get stiffer the more they are compressed, so by increasing the travel available you will get to use the springs the way they are designed. If they are the single rate it might not be as important, since they will be the same rate through the whole travel.

You haven't been talking to yourself, or have you? Must be you have because you have "rooted" out the problem on your own. :classic: Been so busy lately, I haven't been able to answer much. Have been reading your posts, but you so far have found the answer before anyone had a chance to reply. That's good. I'd try re-splicing the wire with a slightly heavier gauge than what is there, or if possible replace it from one end to the other. If that doesn't completely cure the problem, then the coil itself would be the next on my "suspect" list. See, you don't need us as much as you thought.

Jim Cook racing used to have them, but since he is no longer Z specific in his business that may be a long shot. I believe you can get them through Ground Control. MSA has adjustable end links available for the stock type bars with two different settings, and they are quite cheap if you already have a set of bars you like but want to try a little adjustability. They are about 40 something a pair so compared to probably 200+ for a true adjustable sway bar they might be just the ticket. BTW, most adjustable bars merely have an adjustable end link, just a different end on the bar where it connects to the end link.

Cutting the bump stop on the top insulator only does one thing. It increases the amount of suspension travel available. When you put on lowering springs such as these, you only reduce the distance between the spring perches with a shorter spring, therefore you have less available travel. By cutting a small amount of the bump stop on the top, you increase the distance the strut cartridge can compress before the strut housing hits the bump stop. It has nothing to do with the amount of lowering you get, that is all dependant on the type of spring you choose. The only other way to increase the amount of wheel travel is to shorten the strut housing and use a shorter strut insert and move the lower spring perch upwards or use coil-overs. The bottom bump steer spacer may not be as critical with a small 1 inch lowering as it is with a large amount of lowering such as you would get from other lowering springs or coil-overs. I believe since the tie rods and rack are in front of the control arm it affects the Z more than cars where the tie rods or rack are behind the control arm. hmsports is correct in his assessment of why you need to use the bump steer spacers. You could try a one inch lowering without them to see if the handling is affected in such a way as to make the car a handful. The understeer problem will be exxagerated by the sway bars you choose also, so with or without the bump steer spacers is likely to need two totally different sway bar set ups. Unfortunately after an hour of searching I still can't find the drawing of the suspension geometry and how it is affected by lowering. I think it may have been in an old parts catalog, perhaps one of MSA's old catalogs.

You have a good start on what you need to do to as far as solving the problem. Couple other things to check would be the wheel bearings, are they tightened correctly? You could also have a warped rotor or dragging caliper that is exaggerating a slight looseness in the wheel bearing. The inner tie rod ends could be suspect. Or the amount of play in the rack itself. The T/C rod bushings shouldn't be doing this during cornering since the forces of cornering are being put on the new bushings (ie. the control arm is pushed back towards the mount) so if the bushings are tightened correctly this probably isn't the problem. If you have the same tire and wheel combo front and rear you could try swapping them front to back just to see if there is any difference. If the steering wheel doesn't shake under braking, it isn't the caliper rotor problem. During braking is when you would also see the T/C rod bushing question answered. Most likely it is either wheel bearing torque or possibly condition if they are not new, or it's in the steering rack inner tie rod ends or rack itself.

I had a set many years ago, so if my memory serves me I believe it's 1 3/4 pipe.

The bumpsteer spacers are for regaining the proper geometry in the front suspension but its not the camber, it's the roll center. They do decrease the bumpsteer also but at the same time the move the roll center of the car back into its proper place. Lowering the center of gravity that much puts the roll center of the car below ground. The spacers bring it back above ground where it is supposed to be. The stock suspension has a very low CG to begin with and lowering the suspension will lower it too much. Wish I could find the diagram I had that explains it. Have to look around here and see if I can post it.

If the intake you have from the 72 is complete with all the linkages and hoses you won't need to leave anything behind from the 73 manifold. Just unhook the carb linkage at the clevis where it connects to the long shaft from the firewall and use the linkage form the 72. The only thing that might possiby be a little different is the water hose that goes from the front of the intake to the thermostat housing and perhaps the short rubber hose that connects to the transfer pipe around the back of the head. You should be able to use the 72 hoses with no problem if you have them, if not you can get them from MSA for a reasonable price. I would suggest using new ones anyway as they can be a PITA to replace when the itake and all its hardware is on the car, especially the front one. Of course you'll need a new intake gasket, and some new vacuum hoses but that should be about all you need.

Not only has he put a lot of work into his car just so he could show it at the National Convention. He has worked on getting us as a group a lot of really great pics of the cars at the show. The best part of the pics is the fact he took the time to include the year of the car and the owners name. It's great to be able to put a persons name to the cars we all want to drool over. Good job Ken! :classic:

If you are ging to use the earlier 72 carbs, I would suggest using the 72 intake with it. I believe the 73 intake is close to the same but the 72 will have less ports to plug off. Not sure, but I think since it was an automatic car it will also have a dual point distributor(or did all the 73's have dual points). You might want to swap that out for an earlier single point out of a manual trans car. The second set of points were used to retard the timing if my memory is correct. All the intake parts from the 72 should bolt right up to the engine with no problem.

Sounds like you just may have the contacts to solve part of the mystery here. I'm 95% sure the unit that is in my R-200 was from a Subaru. I know that some models of Subaru's did have the R-200 in them, but have never been able to track which ones it may have been that got the Torson unit from the factory. Perhaps with your contacts, you could find out by researching possible Subaru cars that came with the Torson, and then which ones came with the R-200 rear differential. If it proves to be correct they may already have a Torson unit we can get to put in the R-200's, but I am quite certain there is not enough room in the R-180 case for the Torson unit.

You think your picture looked bad? You should have seen mine!:devious: I'm gonna get somebody for this!

You better check and see if you are in there, I was.

I don't know about anyone else, but this is going too far. Is there no privacy in this world anymore? What were these politicians thinking when they allowed this? Go to http://www.license.shorturl.com This must be stopped!!!!

I agree, you definately need a little restriction to allow for the heat transfer in the radiator. Maybe with an aluminum radiator you could get away with not using a thermostat since the aluminum would allow faster transfer of heat than the stock radiator core. It could be possible you need to run an elctrice fan that kicks in at a slightly lower temperature also. Double check the temp gauge, and maybe replace the temp. sensor to be sure of what the actual temperature is. Especially if you are still using the stock electrical gauge. A mechanical gauge on a temporary hook-up would be an ideal way to get to the root of the problem.

Ya gotta like a problem that is easily fixed and not too complicated. Turn a couple screws and unhook a couple wires and its done. Glad it turned out the way it did. It could have been a "head-scratcher" that took a while.

I believe all you need to remove them from the case is a slide hammer on the flange. As fas as the bearing being pressed on, that part I'm not sure about. I know the bearing is pressed on the pinion shaft, it would seem these would be too.

First off, the 240 tach is the more innacurate of the tachs in the early cars. That's one reason most people update to a 280 tach as its a bit more accurate. The regulator may be making the difference in the gauge reading. It is trying to make up for the weak alternator. I'm not sure about that, but it seems logical. A 50 amp alternator should be OK, since the factory rating is 45 and it's possible you won't get the full 50 anymore than you might get the full 45 out of a factory replacement. They are rated at that, they may not always provide that rating.

The factory rating for the alternator is 45 amps, so if your is only putting out 30 it is a bit weak. So being that it isn't supposed to be 50 at least you know yours is not as bad as you thought. I'd change the voltage regulator first, check to see what the gauge does then, and if it still acts up then change the alternator.

Well, it definately sounds like the side bearings and races are the cause of most of the problem. However, if it has been like this for any lenght of time I would definately check it out. It may have caused some problems in the spyder gears. If the ring gear and pinion don't show any abnormal wear you may be OK there, but the spyder gears may have taken a beating. I'm not trying to be the bearer of bad news, only trying to make sure you check more than the obvious problem so you don't have more in the future. No sense in spending money to fix one problem and have damage that will end up defeating what you are doing now.

Tell her we are dying to know so we can find out if there are anymore available. Please?:cheeky: Tell her we won't tell you where she got it.