2ManyZs

I agree with Rick. Check out the possibilty of a loose valve and/or a worn out rocker. Only have to take off the valve cover and do a good visual inspection. A leak down test would be a wise second choice if you see nothing out of the ordinary when you do the visual inspection. One simple test and you will know whether you have a valvetrain problem or a more serious problem, eg. rings? If you pressurize the cylinder and can hear air escaping through the carbs, it is a valve problem. If you hear nothing there, take off the oil filler cap, if you hear air there, well, it's a little more serious...... If you hear the air through the intake at least you will know that it is only a head problem. You will then need to figure out if it could be a loose/improperly adjusted valve, a possible burned or bad seat, a bad valve stem guide, or possibly even a bent valve. Have you ever had the valve seats replaced with hardened steel seats? This would be one of my first picks for the trouble spot. Taking a head off is much better than tearing down the whole engine....... Good luck and let us know what you find.

Talk to a customer service representative when you choose your cam. Tell them what you are doing, how you will be driving etc, and they can pick the best cam profile for your use. I would recommend a cam that gives you peak power in the 2500- 6000rpm range or perhaps a little less than 6000. Say 2000- 5000 which is where you will be doing most of your driving. Remember, if you go too far with the cam, you will need to modify the ignition and carbs to be able to use the cam. Also, some cam profiles will leave you a little short on vaccuum, so beware of trying to go too wild. Also, do get a set of new lash pads with it. The old ones have been worn to fit your old cams lobes and will be short lived on a new cam. Not to mention the excessive wear on the new cam. New cam, new lash pads, and anything else that may be suspect.....

If you are talking about the lines going up into the bottom of the master cylinder, they usually are a pain. Hopefully you are using a 10mm line wrench. If you aren't, you should get one. You can apply a lot more pressure to get it loose without worrying about messing up the line. Anyone who doesn't have a 10mm line wrench should get one, they are indispensible when working on these old, corooded lines, and do save a lot of work by not snapping off those stubborn brake bleeders when you are bleeding the brakes. If soaking and a line wrench don't do the trick. Try tapping the bottom with a small hammer or if worse comes to worse, you could try heating it just a little. Don't heat it too much or you will cook the seals in the master cylinder, unless you are planning on replacing it anyways. In which case, heat it as much as you need.

Try removing the center pin from the rivet with an awl or small punch first. Push it until it comes out of the rivet, then remove the panel. Sometimes you can replace the pin into the rivet and re-use it. Best to get a small bag of rivets from someone like MSA to replace the rivets anyways as they usually are getting kinda brittle and don't like being messed with.

NOS stands for New-Old Stock. In other words, it is an original part that was never sold. It may have been in a warehouse or in a dealerships inventory. Some parts are non-returnable to the factory when a model is discontinued and the dealer is left with trying to get rid of the part. It will be from the original prduction run of replacement parts, ie. not a reproduction of an original part from an aftermarket supplier. NOS parts are in high demand, not only with Z's but any collectible car. Companies will go out and search for dealerships that are going out of business, or just trying to unload excessive inventory of parts, and this is how NOS parts are brought to the market at a somewhat inflated price. It is especially prevelent in the US muscle car business, where a lot of the parts are date coded.

About your driving.....:devious: Just kidding. How much air pressure are you running in the rear? Try dropping a couple pounds out and then see what happens. You might just be running too high a pressure and the tires are loosing their grip because of it. Of course a wee bit wider tire won't hurt anything. Especially when you are playing "road racer" on the on-ramps... Seriously though, try playing with your pressures a little. It might make a big difference. I'd go with about 32 to 34 so if you are running any more than that it might be half the problem...

That was bad Rick......... Stop drinking that rocket fuel, it won't help your car go any fasterLOL

Nice to know there is at least ONE intelligent person working for our government. Maybe there is hope of finding more!:stupid: :tapemouth

Actually it is just a joke I found on the internet. But it would be fun to try the excuse wouldn't it???

If the car doesn't have any hidden underbody rust it looks like a great find. Worth 5K? Maybe, maybe not. Depends on what the underside looks like. Be sure to check out the floor pans, frame rails, under the battery tray, around the fender lip and the rocker panels to see if there have been any not so perfect repair jobs. The 3rd gear being hard to find is somewhat normal with the early 4 speed which this car probably has. If it is original it should have the early A model trans with the less than perfect shifter linkage. It can be swapped for a later one or you can try a set of solid bushings to help. The bumper looks like it could be fixed without much trouble, just some work to straighten the bumper mounts, as long as there is no damage to the lower fender and headlight bucket. The bumpre itself looks pretty clean. Hood can be re-aligned with little trouble. Interior looks pretty good, some holes cut for speakers you will want to cover up. Door panels are orginal style. For what it is worth, I paid 3500 for a car in nearly the same shape. Mainly because I could only find one rust area on the outer body behind the door. Don't know what your budget is, but you can start low(2500 or so) and work your way up till he agrees to a price. Good luck, looks like a pretty well kept car, certainly worth a second look!!

Only time I have seen a triple SU set-up on a Z, the guy had to fabricate his own manifold. Luckily for him one of his relatives owned a foundry that could cast one. No known manifold made for the swap. :disappoin

I haven't driven mine in a couple years, why you complaining???:tapemouth :disappoin

Sounds like it may have a problem in the cold start valve (injector) or one of the sensor that controls it. You really need to get a Factory Service Manual for your 75. It will give you step by step instructions on how to diagnose and test the various systems in the fuel injection. It is expensive, but worth every penny when diagnosing FI problems.

If I am thinking correctly, the fuse block was not moved to the kick panel until the latter part of 74 here in the US when they replaced the carbs with the F.I. So if you have carbs it should be under the console. You should be able to replace it without too much trouble. But if someone has been in there and done a "hack" job on it, it is hard to tell what they might have done. The fuse plugs near the stereo might be for the stereo. The fuse panel itself is plastic and you can't take the lugs out of it as they would be open and definately cause a short. If you have a way of taking a pic of the area and attaching it, it might help one of us to tell if it has been messed with or not.

A man in his 40's bought a new 350Z and was out driving on the interstate at top speed when he saw flashing red and blue light behind him. "There's no way they can catch a 350Z," he thought to himself and put his foot on the floor. Then the reality of the situation hit him, "What the hell am I doing?" he thought, and pulled over on the side of the road. The cop came up to him, took his license without a word, and examined it and the car. "It's been a long day, it is the end of my shift, and it's Friday the 13th. I don't fell like more paperwork, so if you can give me and excuse for your driving that I haven't heard before, you can go." The guy thinks for a minute and says, "Last week my wife ran off with a cop. I was afraid you were trying to give her back." "Have a nice weekend," said the officer.

Well, one of the resons to start it is to make sure oil is up in the head to make sure the seals don't dry out. After sitting for a long period of time, the oil will eventually all drain back to the pan and leave the top side of the engine dry. I'd start it at least once if it is going to be sitting for more than 3 months just to be safe.

Interesting reading to say the least. Guess that was kind of like "The shot heard round the world" eh? :stupid: :stupid: Bet he sold his computer too!

Before you make too many plans, you should do a search here for all the posts on rust issues and go over the chassis of the car with a fine tooth comb. If there is significant rust in the chassis, you will be wasting your time and money. You wouldn't be the first person who bought a Z only to dig into it and find out someone has patched the chassis back together to cover all the rust that has eaten away a significant amount of the uni-body. Darius may have a nice car, but way he drives on the street will only end up getting him in a lot of trouble. Then all the money for the car will end up in a lawyers pocket.

It would be a good idea to start the engine and let it run a few minutes every other month if it is long term storage. Especially if it is not in a controlled temp environment. Lots of temperature variations will cause condensation. To keep your rings from sticking and any surface rust in the cylinders, I would start it once in a while just to be sure. Be sure if you do start it to let it warm up good, to get rid of any condensation in the exhaust system.

No apology necessary. I guess I should change my username to three2manyzs, to be truthful. I actually thought at first it was Mike making up a username to test the system after the "Crash of 02". Now, if I could find out who got my username on Ebay.......:devious: :disappoin

Seems like I remember someone looking for a short pigtail fuse block. There is one up for auction on Ebay right now for a 72 model. Just thought it might help. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1863672718

It is also a good idea to practice welding some scrap sheet metal to get your welder settings correct before you start welding on the car. Welding any thin sheet metal takes a fairly steady hand and lots of practice. When you are cutting out the old floor pans, don't cut out the old floors to the correct size of the new ones, leave a little extra to allow for final fitting and trimming. If you are using a Mig, use a gas set-up, not the flux core wire, it will be much, much easier to weld, and a leave a lot cleaner and stronger welds.