2ManyZs

The old A008's were a good race tire many years ago. Never used one of their street tires so I can't give an opinion. Yokes are a good tire, probably as good as any on the market. They are just starting to take all their 14 inch tires off the market like everyone else, which is not good for those of us that still need/want 14 inch tires.

Bet if you bought her the house in the background or one like it she would let you have any kinds of toys you want!

Oh c'mon now, you aren't leaving us Zlish.... :devious: Have been out of town without a computer or I would have commented. Got lost in the postings when i got home..... Like them both, although personally I would used the 260 for the Chevy swap. Gotta keep those earlier cars close to original. How is it you have two running cars and I have 4 that aren't running?:stupid: :disappoin

I have already e-mailed the link to the advertising on the site to two Z parts suppliers. Maybe if more of us did the same they would take a more serious look into advertising on the site. Let them know we like their products and would like them to become part of our clubs web-site.:classic: BTW Mike, hurry up and get three more posts, it's lonely here being the only one with over 1K posts! :cross-eye

Since it is affecting both the headlights and the dash lights, my first guess would be the headlight switch itself. You might be able to take it off and using a little electrical contact cleaner get it back in working order. It may be worn to the point that it is not making contact well enough in which case a new or used replacememnt might be in order.

Kinda nasty but still funny...

More oddities.....

Is this what they mean by a "target rich environment"?:devious:

And then what happens???:cross-eye

Bet this increases the green fees.

Next thing to try would be heat, either from a small propane torch or a full size torch set. If you can still get enough grip on the nut after heating it, it should come loose. If you still can't get it loose with heat, you'll probably end up having to cut it off. Best thing to use would be a air powered cut-off tool and a good abrasive wheel. Try to make a cut on opposite sides of the nut and effectively split it. This might help you save the bolt. Worst case would be cutting the entire end of the bolt off with the nut, but then you will need to find a replacement bolt and nut. When working on fasteners that are either rusted or large enough to have been torqued to a high degree, using a 6 point socket is always the best way to go. Using a 12 point socket or open end wrench will nearly always end up rounding off the fastener. If there is any question in your mind, always use the 6 point socket or a 6 point box end wrench.

If your rear brakes are out of adjustment the handbrake will need to be pulled further to engage the parking brake. Check your rear brake adjstment to make sure they are OK. The second place to adjust the e-brake is underneath the car where it connects to the e-brake cable. It has a threaded rod that allows you to adjust the e-brake to compensate for the cable stretching over time. You can get to the threaded rod without removing the driveshaft if you really want to work at it, however, it is easier to just unbolt the driveshaft and drop it out of the way. The rod will more than likely be quite rusted due to its location, so taking the driveshaft out will more than lkely be your easiest recourse. I'll try to attach a pic from the CD of the handbake assembly, as sson as I can find it.:cross-eye

Not sure about the Commodores, but if I remember right, it is the Monaro that will be the replacement for the Camaro and fFirebird here in the US if GM does what it has said it intends to do. I personally think the Monaro is a bit better looking than the 350Z, body styling wise at least. I can just hear the flack from that statement.......

For all the media coverage and interest in the 350Z, there sure seems to be a lot of them on Ebay. I counted over 40 listings(some possibly duplicate listings) today for Touring and Track models. Are people finding out it is over-rated or are they just trying to make a profit by selling it for more than they paid, that is if they have even taken posession of the car yet. More of the same "speculators" that drove up the price of the Miata's and S2000's when they were introduced??? Are people that desperate that they would actually want to spend more than they could get one from a dealer? I have already heard of one "horror story" of a dealer charging 100 bucks to test drive one? Wonder how many other dealers are doing the same thing? Can some people really be that :stupid: :stupid: :stupid: Perhaps I just answered my own question huh???

Only a couple ways gas could get on the outside of the injector. It's either leaking at the fuel rail connection or the crimped connection on the bottom of the hose where it connects to the injector body. Be hard for it to be a bad o-ring at the bottom or you would find the gas near the mounting plate on the intake. Check your hoses carefully and replace the clamps on the fuel rail to be sure. I think you can still get replacement hoses from MSA for the injectors if it is the crimped end that is leaking. Not sure how they connect though.

If you go to www.hybridz.org you will find info on nearly every engine swap that has been done. They cover it all. Small block Chevies, Fords, Mopars, Toyota Supra Turbo L-6's, probably even find a couple Mazda rotary swaps in there too.

Hmm, I thought I read that they were going to use the LS1 or LT1 from the F-bodies? Not that I would buy anything built by even a subsidiary of GM in the first place. Doesn't matter, if I were going to spend in excess of 30K for any car, this would be my choice. Might be a little tougher to get parts and service though:stupid: 350 NadaZ eat your heart out! http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1869637592

Uh, isn't this supposed to be the replacement for the Firebird and Camaro? Seems like GM announced that this was going to be their "new" GTO in a year or so. If they do, then you won't have too long to see them in the US after all. Guess they have been catching a lot of flack for cancelling the F-body, and decided they better have a more "sporting" model than the Monte Carlo. So instead of building a totally new car, they had decided to bring this one over as a replacement. Guess we'll have to wait and see.

Guess that was a little too easy to huh? Saw that on Ebay yesterday and thought it might be a little tougher. It's a 63 Nissan Patrol. Here's the link http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1867474375 Not sure if it worth his asking price, but it sure is looks pretty good for being almost as old as Spudz and I.:tapemouth

This is a Nissan, however it is not a Z. That's the only clue you get.....

Sell lots and lots of wine???

It's odd that you are discussing the footrest, I just saw one on Ebay last week and it had me curious as there were never any in US cars. Unfortunately it is no longer up for bid. It looked like it was almost new. It was the first time I had ever seen one advertised (aftermarket or otherwise) and was curious if it was offered somewhere else as an option or if it were dealer installed. Wish I had saved the auction now. :stupid:

It could have been just a lot of trapped air somewhere that caused the coolant drop. That's why it is always best to re-check your coolant level after any type of repair work where you have drained coolant out. Once you re-fill it it will trap air in the lines and it will take a while for it to make its way back to the radiator and be released. Hopefully you don't have a leaking headgasket.:tapemouth A leak down test would be one way to find out if you do or not. Heaters are usually where any trapped air will reside, since the valve prevents any coolant from circulating when you are not using the heater it can stay in there all summer until you open the heater valve and circulate coolant. Re-check your coolant level after a couple more drives and if the coolant level keeps dropping you have another problem.

Must have been an easy one if I got it right.:cross-eye

I believe they were also the only 15 inch wheels available from the factory until 84 if I remember correctly.