EScanlon

Yes. But................. There are some differences between the Early 71 and the Late 72. The early 71's were actually very Late 70 style vehicles (at least as far as the U.S. is concerned), and the 72's started using various items that could be considered 73. Additionally there is the difference between the Manual and the Automatic wiring harnesses. However, if you are talking between Mid to Late 71 and Early to Mid 72 you should be fine as long as you take the transmission portion into mind AND you check to make sure you have compatible connectors as there were some changes in the style of connectors used amongst the years. Although this sounds like a lot of gibberish, it isn't. I have two Z's, one's a late 72 (parts car) and my good car is one produced in 9/71. Both are Automatic, yet there are some strong differences. The differences I am aware of: 71 & 72 cars did NOT have the Seat Belt Warning Interlock. Late 72's and 73 did. Look at the forward section of the center console. If it does NOT have the ashtray right below the radio and in front of the shifter, it more than likely had the choke warning light and the seat belt light there. The harness has to have those connections in it and the early 71's did NOT have those functions in there. Automatic cars had not only the Starter Interlock mechanism in the Engine wiring harness, but also had the Kickdown Switch in the Dash harness. The Rear Wiring Harness was pretty much the same between the years, even with the Seat Belt Warning Interlock. The ONLY difference I am aware of is that later models had different connectors. That's it off the top of my head. Hope this helps. Enrique Scanlon

Excellent! I think you got the spot right about where Vancouver Lake is, and I'm only a mile or so away from it. Thanks!! Enrique

Installing the radio is made much easier by removing the center console, but I've found that it isn't necessarily required. The center console does make it harder to access wiring and attachment points but it CAN be done. Installation: The original Z radio for the 71 series was held both by a pair of chassis screws AND the face plate. With the Heater Control Face Plate removed, locate the wiring harness for the radio and antenna, connect them and insert the radio into the opening. Locate the two screw holes on either side of the radio chassis. Find the corresponding holes in the dash frame extension (the part that juts back towards the heater. Insert the screws and tighten moderately tight so that you can still tilt the radio if necessary. Locate the wiring for the map light. Insert the Center Vent Duct while ensuring that the wiring for the map light stays above it. Insert the cabling for the Heater Controls and connect them. Connect the Heater Control to the wiring harness. While carefully guiding the Face Plate back into position, ensure that the Radio Posts go through the holes in the face plate AND that the map light wiring will still be accessible over the Center Vent. Connect and assemble the Map Light, insert the two top screws but do not tighten them just yet. Put a washer and a nut on each Radio Post. Insert far enough to ensure they won't fall off, but don't snug it up yet. Insert the two bottom screws for the Face Plate. While reaching from the side, alight the radio and push the Heater Control Face Plate into it's proper position. Hold the face plate in place as you tighten down the screws. Tighten the nuts on the Radio Posts. From the side tighten the two screws to the radio chassis. Install Tone / Volume and Tuning knobs. That's it. Removing the Center Console makes it easier to insert the radio knobs into the face plate and also it's wiring, however you should have plenty of accessible space to the sides of the dash to do the same. FWIW Enrique

This is an excellent idea. However, the problem as I see it is that what you are looking for are ARTICLES and not general postings. Unless I miss the gist of your idea. The layout is a good format, why not contact Mike here and see about putting something together for the Technical Articles Forum. That way you already have it here, where there is a LOT of activity and knowledge, and with a little sifting through the archives you may find plenty of seed material. 2¢

Two bulls, one young and one elder, were standing on top of a hill looking at a herd of cows on top of the next hill. The young bull says before breaking into a gallop, "Come on old man, let's run over there and we can scr*w us one of those cows!". The old bull just shakes his head and starts walking towards the herd and calls out after him, "You go ahead, I'll just walk there and scr*w them ALL!". "Youth is wasted on the young!" --Anonimous

While several of us in the PDX-VAN area have toyed with the idea of a "club", most of us find that we're not looking for an organized, dues paying, monthly meeting with officers etc. We've talked to the guys with Northwest Z (if I recall the name right) but their meetings are in Salem and on a week-night. That makes it very difficult for any of us to attend since the time the meetings are held would require most of us to leave in the middle of the afternoon, and then the return trip. We've even discussed being a satellite or affiliate chapter, but haven't really come up with anything yet. I would love to have us all get together, but the time and place gets hard to pin down.. As an opener, and here's an opportunity, Pearson Air Field in Vancouver (Right by Ft. Vancouver) is holding their Wednesday Evening Cruise In. If I recall right, it's $3 per person / car, and all sorts of vehicles attend. I'm planning on being there this coming one July 23, so let's see how many of us can make it. Enrique

I keep getting "Error on page" whenever I click the Post button. Oh, well. If someone can post me as being in Vancouver, Washington (For those of you who don't know where we are, I would be just above Mike (who is in Oregon) and right where the border line goes from generally horizontal to just beginning to slope up). Thanks in advance; Enrique Scanlon

Two places those wire pairs come together; the hazard switch and the combination switch. Check those two out. 2¢ Enrique

You don't mention if you are having trouble with the turn signals at the rear also. The turn signals, the stop lights and the hazard lights all use the same element in the rear bulbs. Depending on what circuit is live is what you will get at the back. Is your Hazard Flasher in place and working? If it isn't, you have an open circuit there that may be the problem. 2¢ Enrique

CAREFUL!! The main reason the amp gauge is hard wired to the harenss is to PREVENT those wires from coming loose. The wiring to the Amp Gauge is directly linked to the battery and alternator. A loose connection there, or just in plugging in the connector you stand the chance of a MAJOR spark. You either need to make the circuit completely dead, (disconnect battery or disconnect the fusible link from the battery to the charger), or be VERY QUICK in connecting and disconnecting. 2¢ Enrique

I agree with Z Babe; that fluid didn't evaporate. I would be VERY cautious with a brake system that mysteriously went on a diet and lost liquid. Remember guys, these are CLOSED systems. They're not exposed to the air, nor is venting of excess liquid part of their design. Look below the Master Vac Boost, if the paint is peeling up from your frame, or on the boost canister itself, more than likely you blew a master cylinder. 2¢

There was a discussion regarding the geometrics of the bell crank that is used to transfer the front to back movement of the accelerator pedal to a side to side movement in order to actuate the carburators. It seems that since you are dealing with rotational movement, at 90° of offset, (in the "corners" of the circle) you are at the peak of the curve for maximum movement per radian of angle. However, this is also a situation where it takes MORE force to begin the rotation than it does to maintain the rotation once you have exceeded the point of inertia release. The resulting OVER acceleration, or in different terms, the tendency of your foot to "push down harder" than you intended, is what is giving you what appears to be a jolt through the clutch. Unfortunately to correct this pre-loading / release of the bell crank would require changing its angle of action. Various items have been proposed, and if I recall an offset of something like 12° (i.e. reduce/ increase offset of arms) yields the next best situation, which is where the initial force required to actuate the pedal is equal to the force to continue the thrust. I hope I explained it well, please correct me if I erred. Enrique

The bracket in your photo is to grip the cable sheath. Adjust it so that you aren't IMMEDIATELY pulling on the cable, i.e. you need to take up a bit of slack, so that there won't be any conflict with the normal operation of the accelerator pedal. Enrique

You can confirm that it is the antenna switch by the color of the wiring. 2¢

Check your own gas pedal first. In my experience, most of the early (read to 73) Z's ALL had the same gas pedal with the EXCEPTION of the Automatic ones. If you look at the picture on e-Bay, look in the upper right, and you'll notice like a hole with a slot in a piece of metal. That's where the cable hooks up. The larger nylon washer I mentioned clips onto the metal and the cable runs freely inside the washer. FWIW Enrique

If I recall, you CAN get the complete Choke & Throttle Cable and lever linkage from MSA. Not sure about VB. I got mine from a boneyard. As far as how it connects, this is tricky as it is important to remember that the throttle is connected directly to the accelerator pedal. It connects to the TOP of the linkage so that when you PULL on the lever it also pulls on the lever that your foot PUSHES on. The mechanism is such that if you should push on the pedal you will not bind nor have the cable disconnect. The cable has the regular sheathing and end ball of lead. The cable goes through a nylon cable holder that clips onto the top of the acc. pedal. The cable holder keeps the cable attached to the pedal while you use the pedal normally. Then when you pull on the lever for the throttle the lead ball is too big to go through the hole in the holder, hence you pull on the lever. Just like if you were holding your foot on the pedal. If you should wish to accelerate more than the hand throttle is set for, that's no problem as the cable will just slip through the holder. FWIW Enrique

Few American cars had this to begin with, and even fewer survived the Dealer "prep" on this item (they removed them). Sadly, American's were not easily accustomed to a hand throttle and more problems and liabilities arose from it than it was worth. Although several folks refer to it as a "Crude Early 240Z Cruise Control", I've heard that it actually was supposed to be used in warming the engine up in cold climates. I just checked my owner's manual (U.S.) and no mention, nor illustration of it could be found. Maybe someone like Alan can help elucidate on this. 2¢

The recess below your arrow and ON the lampholder, if I recall right, is where you can use a very fine screwdriver to push in the tang on the contact for the bulb. You do this when you need to disassemble the bulb holder to clean the contact. The other possible "recess" isn't one. That's the hole with the green plastic in it. That's the melt pin to hold the bulb lens / mask to the body of the clock. Bambi already said it, you basically push the bulb holder to the side, not pull on the wires. 2¢

I don't recall a badge on the left either. I agree with Ian, more than likely a dealer added his nameplate to the car, although usually these were installed with double stick emblem tape. It's plausible that there was an "Automatic" nameplate, but if so, and my car is an Automatic and it doesn't have the holes (Transition Car between Series I and II, 1971), and I've not run into another one even in the boneyards. 2¢

You didn't mention which hoses, engine or fuel tank. However, if you check with Motorsport Auto or Victoria British you should be able to find some of them. One note, many of the hoses in the engine compartment can be purchased at your local Auto Parts Store. 2¢

Sadly, the cost of maintenance on a vehicle here in the U.S. of A. is not only exorbitant, but there are so many times that you get news such as: The flim flam pusher release valve was octupating the misenheimer relay which led to a carburating saturation of the thelapidator. It will only be $500 to get it as good as new, or for $150 we can tweek the phlegmoginator and it will get you by for another 2-3 thousand miles. Guess what gets done.... Additionally the stories abound of people taking their car in for a simple procedure, (change the oil, filter, air filter, and basics) only to have to return the car a week later because the disproportionator went completely hooey. Then, when you get THAT taken care of, a week later and something ELSE goes wrong. At 3-400 per visit it gets real tiring real fast. So people start to wonder, did my car suddenly turn into a lemon or are the mechanics at the dealer f*cking with me? Then let's not forget that there are an increasing amount of PARTS-REPLACER mechanics. These are the guys, who by virtue of the computerized training they received at the dealer, know that when computer error code 23 comes up you need to replace the engine piece by piece until the computer clears it. The true blue MECHANIC, the guy who would listen to your engine, sit there and rub grease into his chin and then announce: Bad Plug in number 3, and then rid your car of all it's evils, is, sadly, going the way of the horse drawn carriage. So if you find a good mechanic, PATRONIZE HIM. 2¢

Choke & Throttle Pull Screws---really odd size and I STILL can't tell you what it is. The nuts holding the instrument gauge inner workings to the housing. 4 or 6mm The Heater Control Panel Mounting Screws. Not only are they of an odd size, but their pitch is different as well. 4mm 1.25 (it's odd at that size) more to come.....

The clear headlight covers all come with the black weatherstrip trim. If you get a kit without it, then you got shorted. 2¢

Personally, I think you'd be pleased with the clear ones with the black vinyl trim. The Chrome ones like I have on my car may be no longer available. You'll need to ascertain that you CAN get them, then whether you want to spend that kind of money. As far as the tinted ones, you may want to check that you won't get a ticket for that. 2¢

Did you recently do some work under the dash? Or maybe on the engine side of the firewall where the speedo cable goes in. What you're describing sounds exactly like a sticking cable, whether because of lack of grease in the jacket or because the gear that's driving it has lost a tooth. 2¢