EScanlon

Sounds as though they plumbed it direct without a valve, so your heat is "always" on. Then again that you still haven't noticed any heat, makes me wonder if it's heating up to temp. 2¢ Enrique

That fusible link you are waiting for...that's the one that COMPLETELY disconnects the entire electrical system. Wait for the fusible link for the repair, don't know if I would advise running the car with a coat hanger in it's place. Enrique

Did you check the vacuum advance on the dizzy? That's a known problem on the Z dizzy. The bearing holder dries up and it won't operate smoothly or properly. I know that is a long shot, but takes only a minute. It sounds as though we can discount the electrical connections on the dizzy. When you mention it dies, have you described HOW it dies? Is it a sudden...click...and then off, or does it sputter to death? What if you accelerated, etc.? E

An immobilizer is ideal only if it actually does just that. Can the car be started with a simple cross connect of the ignition switch wires? If it delays the start of the car for any length of time then it has helped dissuade the individual or make him more determined. If you were to disable the brake system in such a way as to lock up the car, and additionally made it difficult to tow, that would be additional deterrents. Sadly, the more complex you make the system, the more than likely that you will bypass it yourself. All of these systems should be painfully hidden while working with the knowledge that they'll be looking for them. Even better if they arm passively, meaning without action on your part. If some of the additional features were to activate some of the de-activated electronic alarm system, it would play havoc on his attempts. Food for thought. Enrique

I say to double check that dizzy install. But would you answer a couple questions? Is the tach original? If so, does it operate well? Has the resistor been removed and what was done with the wires leading to it? Was the new dizzy tested? Is the mechanical vacuum advance still operating correctly and most importantly SMOOTHLY? Noticed any change in the brake fluid levels? Was the dizzy installed when the car was in running order or after? Just operating for 15 minutes and then dying, with what appears to be a cool down reset. That might also be an indication of flexing or venting of the system. Could the head be warped? Exhaust manifold? Just my 2¢ Enrique

Victor: Good News! Be sure to annotate and account for everything you require to bring her back to the state she was in. If they ever catch the crook and convict him, WHETHER OR NOT he serves time for the crime, SUE him for the amount of the repairs. The OJ trial showed us two ways of skinning a rat. Enrique

At the risk of jumping on a soap box, Too Intense Restoration may be too expensive for folks on an extremely tight budget, but for those of us who want correct, many times original, advice, options, and AVAILABILITY, Troy Thacker's busines is tops. Can you find it for less money someplace else? Sometimes, not always and then you run the hazard of is it right. Case in point, I bought a replacement convertible top for my Roadster. Billed as sewn to original specs and the closest thing to original. Well, it was cheaper, about $300 cheaper. Powerful incentive. I bit and got it. It IS cut to original specs, except, it doesn't have the extra material in the wear points of the top bow. The wire spring reinforcement cables for around the side windows and the pockets they go in, not there. No possible way of adding them in without some serious tailoring. Not something to be tackled lightly. Quote by upholstery shop that specializes in interiors and refitting convertible tops...$250 plus $100 to install it. Then I bring it back in the summer after it's "seated" and they'll re-waterproof the seams again. I would be better off buying the proper top at $450 and saved myself the hazzle. Still thinking of opting that way as it's becoming extremely difficult to find those side pieces. What's the nmoral? Sometimes what seems expensive to someone else may in the long run be the most ECONOMICAL way of fixing it, fix it promptly and most importantly RIGHT. So with that, I'll admit some of his prices may seem high. However, I'll pay for availability on a simple phone call as opposed to 3 weeks of trolling on e-bay, and then taking my chances. 2¢ Enrique

First check your Hazard Flasher. Swap it out with tne Turn Signal Flasher. If that causes the hazards to work, but not the turn signals then you've pinpointed the flasher as the bad guy. If the hazards still don't work, then check to make sure that the connections to your hazard flasher switch are making good contact. This is usually the cause of the problem. Enrique

New car loans, I guesstimate about $17 per hundred borrowed. Not a hard fast accurate rule, but close enough to know when something is way out of budget. Used Car loans, now you're having to determine the length of loan and other stuff. 5 year loan and you can use the above formula. 2 years and I use $5 per hundred IF the loan would be through a bank. These "Rules of Thumb" are just MY Thumb Rule. Adjust to your needs as you see fit. Enrique