madkaw

So Cliff, did you do the notching all with that flapper wheel?

Yes you should update your signature so we know the engine stuff. I would fix the gap first and then go from there. Retarding the timing to keep it on the scale is a great idea.

What exact dizzy model do you have?

.080 ? Shouldn't it be half that? Advance timing lights are pretty cheap anymore and it takes out the guess .

You don't want those heavy rods, I'll take them off your hands and give you another light set;) Post up pics and we can go from there. Staying on the conservative side is probably best. If you went overbore then you shouldn't need much.

So your dizzy gives you 28 degrees of mechanical advance? I didn't any dizzy that gave that much. How have you verified total advance numbers?

So the rods are different? so are the other pistons from a later L24? Could be 9mm rods from a 73 240?

I'm getting ready to test this subject. I've swapped out the crank but I am using all the same rods and pistons. I don't plan on having the complete rotating assembly balanced.

Blue, were you able to source the low compression pistons with the right pin height?

Your intuition might be right if you aren't turn high revs. I would think a machine shop would Reem that.

That's a lot cheaper and easier to fix for sure!!

Best ignition you can provide. Play with timing curves. Maybe advance the cam #3 hole see what it does. Tune , tune. 411 gears! Turbo!

Looks great Cliff

You posted 189 hp when the dyno sheet showed 189 torque(reversed). I agree that the cam should have allowed good hp all the way to 6500rpm. You might have been drowning in fuel too. Did you degree the cam? All the reading I've done on these motors I would say the 42 head was your limiting factor. No quench head.

And you have your numbers reversed. I thought a stroker would have more torque than hp

Nice numbers. I'm figuring the 42 head had no combustion work- reshaping. afrs were kind of piggy at higher rpm. You might have lost some HP there. I'm guessing timing was limited by knock?

Haven't got a lot done, but have made some progress. After deciding .030 over rings weren't going to cut it, I have ordered .040 over rings. Maybe not the conventional way of doing this, but I guess going to the next size ring will still fit correctly as far as being concentric and allow a tighter gap. After taking many measurements it seems that these pistons (sealed power I believe) are big as far as being .030 over. The piston skirt measures right about .030 over not leaving hardly any clearance. Getting the clearance plus adding a fresh hone added to the bore size enough that rings came up a bit short. If the pistons weren't so new I would be getting .040 over set, but I am taking the cheap route. Money will be spent when the L28 comes into play. This block is all about learning and experimenting. My Isky cam arrived and looks pretty! Still not sure on the rockers. i told the machinist we would swipe the Delta regrinds and see how that turns out. He is still doing valves. Probably going to shoot for 40cc chambers at this point.

Did you see the 88mm pistons with the 38mm deck height. They call them low CR pistons. Wonder if they are flat tops

Nice find. Tony is always pushing the VW parts. I think the forged stuff is reasonable too

That's 2 Steve's that told him that !

Sounds like someone is itching to make a header! Wouldn't it be fun to make something like the Kameari octopus header in SS

Good thought on putting the starter on. It's about impossible to turn over by hand fast enough to do a good test . You should be able to tell somewhat the condition with a compression test. Might take note of the cam timing also.

How much or are you going to shave the head? CR you are going for?

Guy, I was referring to the 500 pistons

Is that 100$ per hole?