madkaw

Now that you guys have trampled all over this wonderfully informative thread can we get back to engine building;0 Here's pics of the ole rusty head. Put my valve spring compressor to work right away in dismantling the head. I had to smack some of the valves pretty hard with a mallet to get the valves loose enough for the compressor to work. The one belt valve was bent right at the head and I was able to slip another valve in the guide easy. The head is at the shop getting a basic valve job using most of the parts from the warped head.

Don't ever trust my hearing- Good investigative work!

Doesn't sound that bad. It's hard to tell on videos because it usually modifies the sound. Sometimes the engine sounds different during starting when the timing is way off.

The fuel requirements for FI motor will cause a lot of work and money. It's more than if you were just going L28et from a L28e motor. Than you have the wiring . How much work do you want? If your power hungry you better go L28et

I know that IF I don't bring my car, I won't be the only one in that situation, but not wanting to go without my car.

Leon, I know you have read pages of archives regarding syncing carbs. You know that is one of Tony's pet peeves about making sure that you can seperate the carbs for balancing, but there has been many arguements the other way. If you think about it, does anyone disconnect the balance tubes on SU's when they balance? Does your engine operate with all the time with the balance tube disconnected? No. I would try and mechanically set the butterflies equal before doing anything and I would try and sync seperately, but in the end the carbs will be all tied to each other.

I'm not sure I buy into the balance tube= lazy idle. If you remember my set up ,I had/have a separate vacuum log with all the associated hoses and my throttle response and idle was like a motorcycle. Never had an issue with a 'lazy idle', but have a Mikuni intake tapped at all the runners.

I would try a different starter first or just try the reduction starter. Definitely check all connections .

Beautiful set up Mike!

I think it will be hard to tell by hand. My last ZX motor only showed 90lbs by hand on a compression test. Once apart I realized it was in very good shape. Leak down test for sure. True motor head has an engine in the living room:)

Okay- took cam and towers off the warped head and popped them on the rusty head for a fast dirty test and the cam spun fine. So took everything back off the head and sent it to the machine shop for a pressure test. If that passes then it's time to play valve swap. I took everything off the warped head because it all looked clean and hopefully serviceable. So the only parts that will be used off of the rusty head is the core itself and the Rocker base nuts. I think they will be fine with a little cleaning. Got a new valve spring compressor and it works pretty dam well. Had the valves out in just a few minutes.

And I thought only P79 and p90 got that close of a shave!

I'm with Stanley on the windshield. Unless you have to have a windshield that says Nissan on it, buy a new one. Seeing clearly is a great thing. I would spend the money on suspension. Try doing stuff yourself to save money and still have a reserve if you need someone to bail you out. Handling is what these cars are about. Keep your eye out for an L28 that someone sis getting rid of cheap and jump on it and keep it for a rainy day. Have fun!

It's all relative I guess. Your running 32cc's on flat tops?

Zed, the bent one is high in the middle. I really do plan on trying to straighten it out a bit first before thinking about milling. When you are starting with such a small chamber you are limited with the shave fix. I'm looking at 11 to 1 now without shaving. There is too many variables that I need to research first before I know what exactly what route I am going yet. Waiting on a CC kit to see how much I can gain in chamber volume with some unshrouding.

I have to get the rusty one pressure checked before I endure that work. As rusty as it is I will want to change out everything including rocker studs. I'm betting they will put up a fight

The way my luck is going , my L24 will be done for next summer.

Welcome from an ex New Jerseyian.

I am going to try it, but after I verify the rest of this head is good. Had to go to work to pay for all this, so I will look into that when I get back!

What pistons and rings did you use? Stock cam? What valves- stock size?

Captain, Too much warpage + small chambers makes it not doable. Zed, I've read about swapping cam and towers, so might be an option , but I'm doubtful. Cliff, I talked to them before (Hoke), and seemed nice, but didn't want to ship a cylinder - sight unseen- because of the mess I'm in. I might take you up on looking at some heads if I get to that point-thanks.

Well #2 MN47 head came and it's junk also. This time I will have to fight for my money back. I will post pics but the cam was rusted into place. I called as soon as I opened the box. I called A1A in Lakeland FL and the guy proceeded to tell me I could just bead blast it and it would be okay. He's done that many times before. After cussing him out I called my CC company and refuted the charge. The crook won't take my money. I think the idiot-MIKE- really thought it would clean up. This thing must have sat outside for years.

Thanks Cliff. Maybe my engine has been cracked open before. It was pretty dirty inside like old used oil, but maybe there's nothing to that. I believe on these motors all the bearing caps not numbered are supposedly interchangeable.

I think it's about 7500$, plus shipping

Oh no-another red block in a Z :-o