madkaw

I would say the needles you have, the 1.7 is a sizing number and they are actually smaller than the original. 2.0s. Did you save the old ones to compare? Did you try putting the old ones back in? Also, you have adjusted the floats so many times, you haven't marred up the tang so the needle is hanging up? Not that I am demanding an answer, but you didn't directly answer(sorry if I missed it) if you check tightness of the needle assembly or made sure all washers were in place.

It's an easy quick check and necessary with solid lifter heads. Just check them and eliminate that, plus you can have a peek under the valve cover for anything else that looks odd.

Interesting ! Trying to think why valve train would be much noisier? Maybe time to double check valve clearances?

Did you have Gas Monkey help you?

Yep-you have some decisions to make. a .30 over L28-even with dished pistons will be high CR. IMHO, with no quench in dished pistons, it might not be the best option. Might need to much timing pulled. I think flat top L28 .030 over would put you around 11 to 1 , not sure what dished pistons would be. L24 will be fun and I run full timing with that set-up. Maybe not as torquey as the l28, but I got 155RWHP with SU's. Like said-you will need to modify the block for bigger valves, but you can do that yourself.

Putting this on a L28 or l24? If it's going to be l28 you definetly want to open up the chamber. I would also measure out the chamber size for reference. There's no polish necessary, just some sand paper and patience.

Check out this link. Somehow my head ended up on an Aussy web site. Although it's a E-88, its the same as yours http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php?topic=6012.0

Easy way to tell is just lay a HG against the chamber. I'd say NO to unshrouding has been done. You can still do it now if careful and would highly recommend it. Make sure you get rid of all the sharp edges and any spark plug threads showing! I'll try and find a pic of mine.

Needle and seat assembly is tight and any appropriate washers are used on the valve assembly? How did you check to see if the needle was sealing off the fuel flow?

Chris , Look at my triple set up . I made a balance tune from a fuel rail. The 123 ignition is using a map sensor if I understand correctly , so a strong vacuum signal would be best.

Didn't you post the specs provided by the engine builder? Why do you need those specs?

It's a little more than just flipping the crossmember-there is some fabrication involved. Biggest advantage to the BW T-5 is the unlimited choices of shifters. The trans shifts very precisely and notchy at the same time with a quality shifter. The gearing is not a big deal unless you are racing and are specifically looking for close ratio performance. Disadvantages: dedicated DS that is mated to the proper diff yoke. Some fabrication needed.

I had the same issue with hoses from Z Therapy. I hope they stopped selling those since they collapse with heat. I had to put the originals back on. No other suggestions . I might have some extras - I will look

You are just bound to use that lever for something. How about a slow release to an NO2 bottle😵

Certain ZX modules have the retard option. Basically two sets of connection tabs. I believe it pulls 8-10 degrees from timing! It might be the 12-92 module. Other than that it is the same advance numbers .

2010 Zcon was HOT! I don't care and I will b there if it kills me getting my car back on the road again

You can do the old blow thru test to see if the needle is closing off the flow.

So when you opened up lid on that float was it high? Make sure your needle and seat are sealing. Make sure the needle assembly is tight in the housing and fuel is not bypassing around the threads

Got to love that sound:)

Very nice indeed

We won't hold the jersey part against you. Welcome

Digging into it for a known problem or just thinking refresh? What's your experience? If your asking how long it takes to remove the head then I would assume you have little Z experience Like Zed said- if you run into anymore then a refresh it will take time to find an experienced L machinist. If it's just bearings and rings and crank polish - it shouldn't take long. Usually it's the head that will cost the most time and money.

So here are some pics of the cylinder bores. Also pics of my Chevy Sonic pick-up truckLOL

Usually the harness is okay except for areas subject to heat or direct weather. I would clean and replace only where necessary . Blades or pins I tried cleaning with sandpaper or mini file to get fresh surface- the dielectric grease after that

Just the fact that he e-mailed me back right away was a plus in my book . I've been waiting a week or so for Schneider to call me. PM me for a cell number, I hate the messenger on this site.