madkaw

That head is from a Datsun 810 or something? Bolt on, but you would need the exhaust manifold because its round port. Also need to relieve the bore for the larger exhaust valve to clear if you are at stock bore. In the end, you should have a better running motor than the stock. Should put you 10+ to 1 and detonation resistant. Getting ready to put that head on a L28.

Well blue just don't cut it in a red engine compartment. Black is kind of dumb, especially when you start trying to find oil leaks. Red off the shelf actually matched really well to my car, so there it is. The side seals; Guy, appreciate the tip, but the rear main is already bolted down and I don't own a puller, so it's a pain to pull back out. I've read numerous posts regarding these damn things and I have read no rtv, yes rtv, cap in place, cap not in place. I don't own the how to rebuild book, but i'm ordering it tonight! I have time to sort this out because my head is on B.O. I guess. Blue; I had SS valves in there before and I guess the machinist ordered SI valves to replace my old ones.

HUH?

Getting some stuff done, but need some verificaion. Ready to put rear main side seals and I need to be sure so this doesn't haunt me. See pics. "lips" to the block side, and stake to the crank side. I also noticed that the rubber seal has a slight taper to it. It definetly when in one way easier then the other. Not easy to see, but easy to feel. Still no head. The machinist found a flaw in the SI SS valves. Defect in the material. So looking for maybe a better 1.73 intakes.

I also was running 54 gears and a T5

My first long haul with my fresh L24 to Zcon 2010 I got over 30. SU's running very lean running max or 37 total advance. Amazing was that fuel gauge was dead nuts accurate using my CJ 5 gas tank - This was with a 480 lift cam and headers and electronic ign.

Those diesels are gone already

Curious that you are using he shorter rod-130mm?

Please-no derails, it's a lot of paperwork,

Didn't they start with transitorized ignition in 73? I thought I used to have an old brain box from a 73

I should have said, Cliff inspired me to do my reliefs better than I did on my old block.! It would be hard to to calculate the reliefs into the CR equation, but it does probably have an effect on it.

I used what MSA was advertising years ago. They are too long at the contact point and sometimes don't ground correctly. I had to file down the solder on the contact to get them to work. And oddly enough the speedo ones never did want to ground right so I put the OE ones in

The reason it didn't start with the tach out is because the coil wire runs thru the tach to give you a reading. It's a current driven tach, so all your ignition current goes thru it. when you pulled your tach you disconnected your ignition.

Progress is such a sweet thing. It was time to do the bore notching. After watching how Cliff's notches came out I knew I could do better on mine. My Z buddy just happen to have a small sanding drum set. The biggest drum was 2" and he also had a 1" . It was almost too easy with 80 grit paper on the drums. Just used my cordless drill and it was very manageable and very quick. I didn't even burn up one drum doing all 12 notches. I used the 2" drum for the intake notch and the 1" for the exhaust.As I advised cliff I went conservative-especially since I'm already 30 over on the bore. Anyway, I very happy the way they turned out. I scrubbed the engine down twice after kicking up sand and started in with assembly. It's was quite a change shoving pistons down in a hole with only .00015 clearance as opposed to .0045. Even with this tight clearance on the piston/cylinder- my rings(Total Seal) still gapped at the upper limits. It's obvious that though Total Seal sells these as file fit, they didn't leave any extra on there. The other surprise to me was when I measure deck height on the pistons. Even with taking .005 off the top off the block the pistons were only .004 above deck. I think these pistons were Sealed Power units. I was expecting to find them around .020 above deck. So the Sealed Power pistons were oversized on the skirt and not as tall . Time to move on. Dropped the crank in there with new Clevite bearings and mounted up all the pistons in the block. It doesn't seem like a whole lot, but for me it was big. Less parts laying around to get lost and dirty. Sent a pic to my machinist to tell him I am waiting on him now-I need my head-NOW. I have also been be working an l28 at the same time. It won't take much to get done. Should be a good cleaning, fresh rings and bearings and a fresh cylinder head.

I think I got lucky but this is a really nice core with a good cam. It was rated A , but never sure on these deals. If I needed a quick fix this head probably could have been made usable with very little money. This will be going on my L28 block that I am rebuilding now. Should be a screamer if I can tune her right

Thanks for the help guys

If that line was gummy, I would bet that's your issue. This has been discussed here before so there might be some suggestions in the archives

Good point Charles . I have had those float bowl lines collapse on me. I've also seen the rubber lines back by the differential get hot enough to get gummy and collapse

A bad coil is a good example of failing under load. A restricted fuel line will also probably be fine in the driveway , but under load the fuel amount would be insufficient. My daughter's ZX turbo acted up mostly under load and would experience the symptoms you describe . I finally found an obstruction in the fuel sending unit that partially blocked flow. The tank was spotless, but something had lodged itself in the sending unit pipe and would close off fuel. I've also have seen a loose connection on a dizzy act this way.

I'm guessing that a 285 hp motor has a cam thar won't idle at 800rpm with carbs. Bet you will have to go with an idle above 1000 to get it to run right. It seems you are expecting street manners from a race engine. Specs on your cam?

Was the pressure checked when it was running bad?

Charles, found one for 80$-thanks again. I guess I didn't even realize this source was available, but now I know!

WOW- thanks Charles , that's awesome

81-84 2.4 maxima. Thanks Charles

Still in the market for this. Looks like another maxima popped up in Newark CA.