madkaw

This thread is really getting me worked up to get my Mikunis going. Sounds like my shorty manifold was the only option if you want a cold air box since things are so tight with the Webers. I also wonder if the Mikunis will be easier to dial in since they have accelerator pumps. I hope you spend some money to dial your Webers in on a dyno, I think it would be worth the money, plus interesting reading for us!

So it's obvious that your SU's were junk- but I will still give you 50$ for them;)

Don't drain the gas- thats not it. Sounds like your new to wrenching on cars too. Put a voltmeter on the battery and measure volts while the car is running and not running. What did the spark plugs look like? A weak charging system might cause a weak spark but still run your pump. What do you know abou the engine- we need some history here to help diagnose your issue. Try to give specific information and as much as you can.

Looks like your first post- welcome to Classic Z Car. You might want to fill out your signature on your profile that briefly explains what year and model Z you have which will help us help you. Have you tested your charging system is putting 13+ volts to your battery? Sounds like your battery is getting weak which will causes issues with performance. Maybe you have a float sticking on your Mikuni's? Sometimes a little tap on the carb in the right spot might loosen things up. Some history on the car? Like carbs been rebuilt recently?

Not sure I know how to do a PDF file. I just barely get by with the computer stuff!! I do plan on taking pics of the manual and posting them also. Maybe with some guidance I can make a zip file with all the pages in one folder. Are the pages readable as I have presented them??

It's not only a higher compression, it has a good high quench area which makes good use of the compression. It does have the smaller valves, but that is easily fixed to improve flow. They have had issues with corrosion around the coolant passages and also cracking around the exhaust valves. The fact that it is rebuilt is good because the valve guides and seats have probably been upgraded, which it would need because of unleaded gas. I would make sure that the oil spray bar has been replaced-they are prone to breaking and then say goodbye to your cam. I would also recommend running some zinc additive to your oil now and then which is helpful to our solid lifter cams. I run an early e88 head, which for all purposes is identical to the e-31. It is a great running head and I have no issues with detonation running more then stock timing.

Well some of you that I am now proceeding with my Mikuni install.When I purchased these carbs I got lucky and recieved a very complete kit. These look new right out of the box-infact the carbs came in a Mikuni box:) I even recieved an original 1985 catalog and service manual. I decided to post up parts of these Mikuni publications on here for all to view. Between the two publications I have part numbers and illustrations of the carbs and their parts. Let me know if there is anything in particular that you might want to see. I know folks buy these carbs with the intent to rebuild, but not much to go on. I hope this thread and pics will help. I'll start out with the some stuff from the catalog

I have to post up my new love for a TV show-BBC Top Gear. Now it doesn't take too much to interest me as far as shows concerning cars. This show however, has given me a show that I can watch with my son and wife-and they like it too!! My wife is not a car lover like me, but does appreciate a nice car. My son is into the exotics and mostly euro type cars. We all appreciate a crazy fun and the BBC Top Gear covers all that for us. It's pretty exciting for me to cuddle up with the wife and watch a car show-it's almost weird!! If you have never watched an episode, I invite you to give it a shot, it's pretty damn good entertainment in my book.

Dave, it has to be satisfying to get to that point of refinement. In the process of all my mods on my car I have been watching for ways to gain that refinement. It sucks to have a sweet looking ride and then have to listen to those squeaks and rattles when you drive the car around. Thanks for pointing out some of your finds since they are probably common with a lot of these cars. It's a PITA to find some of these noises since they transmit to other areas of the car.

Under the glove box corner of the cabin. I think it is a seperate wire plug and it's green, just fish around all those wire bundles under the dash by the glove box, you will find it. I might wire my relay in tomorrow and I will take pics if I do. The UPS man showed up today with a Mikuni install kit:)

If your using a fuel pump relay then do you really need to find the exact route of that wire. If you find where it comes off the ignition switch and where it goes towards the back of the car then you have enough.

you should already have a green wire run all the way to the back of the car already. Look at your wires running to your sending unit, the wire should be there somewhere

Well my L24 just dynoed at 150lbs of torque. That's just a mild build, so if you think 105 is fun, then your L24 is just fine. The sum of parts and how much you tune will be the determining factor - not .4 liters

I'm jealous of how much room you have to install the intake bolts. The mikuni short manifold is a total bitch. On the other hand I wouldn't have room for my cold air intake with that long of an intake . That is a beautiful set- up and inspires me to get mine done. Waiting on the UPS man!!!!!!

I know les would rather talk, but the few times I have got Les on the phone you could tell he just wanted to get me off the phone- and I'm a " get a to the point guy". The e-mail is the best use of a busy man's time to answer questions like- did you get the item I returned. I'm am glad to have such a great asset to the Z community, but as a business I think email would be his friend. When your sending someone your hard earned money for a product, a simple one liner email makes your customer feel at ease. Not everyone knows Les or is Les's buddy, so we rely on the business transaction to rate our relationship with that vendor.

Actually it is black with white stripe and a solid green. Looked at them just yesterday

Okay. Just laid out big bucks to get this job going. Went with the 1204 Holley FPR and a guage, fuel pump relay, filters, RX -7 pump, CAI piping, filter. I'm going to just deadhead to the carbs. Ordered some bits I needed for the Mikunis from Wolf Creek so they should be ready to go. Right now I am resizing some studs for the manifold. The studs that came with the triples seem to short and there is not enough threads in the nuts for me. This is going to be a pretty involved job!

Can't believe there is that much issue with the linkages on new carbs.Now that I have linkage complete it feels good as far as return pressure and smoothness. Maybe I need to start a thread on my Mikuni install to compare!! Those wires around the sending unit are the right ones- probably not hooked behind the fuse box area. On my 7 9/71 the circuit was not complete, but I had a 73 harness laying around that had the rest of the wires. It basically is just a loop circuit to include a fusable link. I ordered a pump relay and I'm also going to have a separate switch on the drivers side to turn the pump off at will. I went with the rx7 pump

Les, It's funny that I pulled up this thread and was reading your response and my phone pings with an e-mail from you. So I am gathering that you agree with me that the shape is a bit off on that flare? I am definetly willing to listen to my tires rub a bit longer for a good flare. I'm glad you are busy and glad to see a Z business staying around.

Been all over the Holley web site and it is very informative. There are nice diagrams laying out the plumbing for their FPR's. As far as the 1204 model, it is only to be used before the carb with no return line. Leon, not sure what FPR works for your setup ? You could use the Holley 1203bp, but the pressure doesn't get below 4psi and Holley states the return should be the same size as the supply. The Holley site also covers wiring a oil pressure switch and a relay setup for your pump!! So they way I see it, unless someone can show me otherwise, the only option is the 1204 and not use a return line

So I might have got a little over zealous here, because I just had another moment-man I'm thick. So in my possible plumbing diagram below, you would use the Holley 1204 just before the return line? I look at that regulator and it has 2 outlets and one inlet. I'm gathering I run one outlet to the return line and I can either plug one outlet or plumb a guage there?

So simple I over thinked it!! It just hit me like Mikle Tyson:stupid:. I guess when I hear return style-I just think a regulator that has a separate return port. So my triples right now have "T" on every carb for a loop set-up. So I might try and pull off some fuel line bending magic and reposition my supply line along the firewall and give it a straight shot to the carbs. Then coming out the other end of the carbs I will plumb into the 'in" port of the regulator and "out" to the return line and back to the tank. Wow, Ijust feel like I did something and I haven't done a damn thing-yet!

Still waiting on some dyno numbers!!!

Maybe this thread will enlighten that-I don't know. Logic says that keeping the fuel flowing would help negate that, but Mitchell is having no issues and his line still runs along the valve cover-which I want to avoid.

Okay, great ideas, but in your case Leon is where I have trouble picking the right regulator or how to plumb. You have what kind of regulator with how many ports? So how is the fuel going in and out and also to the return. It's easy to picture the FPR before the carbs as a simple in(supply) and out(carbs), but... your set-up Leon is carbs-- to the "in port" of the FPR and then what? I'm a visual guy I guess. Also Mitchell, any closer pics of said FPR set-up-it is hard to see in that pic?