madkaw

So simple I over thinked it!! It just hit me like Mikle Tyson:stupid:. I guess when I hear return style-I just think a regulator that has a separate return port. So my triples right now have "T" on every carb for a loop set-up. So I might try and pull off some fuel line bending magic and reposition my supply line along the firewall and give it a straight shot to the carbs. Then coming out the other end of the carbs I will plumb into the 'in" port of the regulator and "out" to the return line and back to the tank. Wow, Ijust feel like I did something and I haven't done a damn thing-yet!

Still waiting on some dyno numbers!!!

Maybe this thread will enlighten that-I don't know. Logic says that keeping the fuel flowing would help negate that, but Mitchell is having no issues and his line still runs along the valve cover-which I want to avoid.

Okay, great ideas, but in your case Leon is where I have trouble picking the right regulator or how to plumb. You have what kind of regulator with how many ports? So how is the fuel going in and out and also to the return. It's easy to picture the FPR before the carbs as a simple in(supply) and out(carbs), but... your set-up Leon is carbs-- to the "in port" of the FPR and then what? I'm a visual guy I guess. Also Mitchell, any closer pics of said FPR set-up-it is hard to see in that pic?

Thanks Steve. Looking at the output pressure of the RX-7 pump(3.5-4.7psi), you might actually get away with no regulator. I have about come to terms with the fact that when you get down to this little pressure, the selection is small. I don't believe a FPR is sold that has a seperate port for the pressure guage. Now if you go up 1psi to 5, then there is all kind of choices. I also noted that you can basically make your own adapter for the guage inline, or EBAY of course sells an adapter in one piece for 14$. I am still playing with the idea of pressurizing the Mikuni's later down the road which will change everything as far as regulators!! I guess if I go with the Holley with two 'out' ports, I can adapt a guage to one of the outports-though it will take some adapting to be able to see the guage. It's funny that I have the money ready and I still don't have a firm plan-I guess I should have been doing a better job searching.

I have been doing a lot of searching on this and I hope I am just not being redundant here-but, I do have some questions. What I plan is running a RX-7 pump because I have read many good things about it. I am going to use my existing supply line and a regulator. The regulator is where I get a bit stuck! I guess I would have no problem running the return line, but not sure of what type regulator to use for that and where to put it in the plumbing? Most regulators I have seen have an inlet and outlet with the return. So do you run that type in a loop set-up before the carbs and attach the return? If you use a return style after the carb, what do you do with the outlet side? Maybe I am over thinking this, but I only want to order once. It seems the easiest to just forget the return and run a simple inlet/outlet no return style before the carbs. In either scenerio I would like to have a permantley installed fuel guage. It would be nice to just have the guage right on the regulator. The two port outlet regulators I have seen out there have outlets on the bottom and side, not very convienent location for a fuel guage. Love to see a regulator with two outlets on the side. Plus most guages are 1/8 npt -while most FPR's are 3/8 npt. Anyway, I will keep searching and hope you guys and shed some light on this.

You should consider a 1/4 mile run with your car for real world comparison also!!

That was my point. I guess I took for granted you knew that. They are considerably shorter thus making a knob adjustments does nothing for top end AFR. I nthink SM needles should be left to overbored SU carbs and 2.8 or greater engines. Now if I had a crazy cam in my car-but then the SU's would not be the best carb for that.

Oh great-leave us hanging

Nice!!!

Also it should be noted that the SM needles are much shorter. Not sure of the impact of that but there has to be some. I'd love to go back with the 27's , but I'm done with the SU's. I don't mean that in a bad way. I've been sitting on these triples for years- time to move on. The SU's are a great carb!!

When I was at the dyno the operator had a choice of numbers- example SAE. I guess you could do a direct comparison to factory SAE numbers that way. I believe the dyno gas the ability to correct for atmospheric conditions to make thongs apples to apples

Looks like you have a good tune on that motor! I like you AFR's, not too rich. I noticed the chokes are 30's. Not sure if that's the same as what Mikuni's choke, but that seems conservative, but maybe that's where she likes to run. Great Job.

Window frames!!

Agreed, Arne. My doors were off and completely apart with the window frames off and powder coated.

The shim was placed between the door and the hinge. My doors were removed for paint and might have originally had a shim and it was lost in the mess! I'm pretty sure it was .060 I also had to slam the door hard, even though I thought it was adjusted right. Grab the end of the door with it open and try to lift up- there should be no play. There is also a small amount of adjustment on the window and frame. I am also running precision seals

Gnose, not that serious, but serious enough to go back with the triples and pay a couple hundred to dynotune while the engine is in the car. Capt. -I only paid for a baseline run(3 passes), but things were slow so they let me do some adjustments. I wish I has brought my 27's along with me now. I turned my mixtures way in and it only affected the AFR below 3000rpm significantly. So I was taking a chance of running lean there and still be rich. The only real solution was a needle change for my motor. 1.5 turns in amounted to about .1 on the AFR. The owner thought a full point on the AFR would have been worth maybe 10 HP

There's really much to photograph , it was a piece of scrap aluminum made to wedge behind the lower hinge. The metal might have been.060 thick. I guess it took so long to figure out since the door fit pretty well before all the paint work.

Still waiting to get e-mailed the dyno sheet, but basically I did 150/150 I guess I should be happy for a l24 AFR's were decent, but the SM's are too much in my opinion and the opinion of the race shop I dynoed at. I was barely above 12's and he felt I needed closer to 13's from what they see on NA motors. What I learned from this experience; SM needles are too much for the L24 with a mild cam and there is no amount of adjustment that will lean it out on WOT( I tried)Sorry guys, the mixture screws do not effect the entire power band. The butt dyno is misleading:disappoin My engine seemed detonation proof(even at 38 full advance)-no signs of it anywhere, either audible or on the dyno sheet-maybe a good motor for turbocharging:cool: 200HP, if I ever make it there, will be lot's of fun. I will need, and want, to rent time on the dynojet when the Mikuni's are on-I want to be sure. The dyno shop said that most of the widebands are inaccurate(that they see) changing timing from 32 to 38 full advance had little effect on HP-in this case The particulars for those who don't know; L24-40 over, early e-88, bigger valves, unshrouded, 9.55 to 1 MSA 6-2 header, dual exhaust e12-80 ignition, total advance 32-36 -3 runs SU carbs with SM needles

Well I could only muster 150/150 with my 2.4 and SU's. In relative terms to the OP, I'm in the ballpark with the smaller engine and carbs

Hey Leon, At the dyno today, we will see! Hope you don't burst my bubble if the numbers are good

I guess sometimes you have to get pissed off enough to fix somethings. A complete resto and my passenger door has never been right. The passenger door always had to be slammed and acted like it was sprung. The bottom of the door didn't line up flush with the bottom of the body line rear quarter. I tried adjusting the latch a million times it seemed. Pulling up on the door from the end it seemed that the hinge was slightly worn. So I pulled the door off after trying again to adjust everything and decided to shim the bottom hinge. I just grabbed a scrap of .060 aluminum and cut out a shim to put under the lower hinge so I could raise the door just a bit. What a difference it made. You wouldn't think that an adjustement so small and in a direction that seemed contrary or ineffective to the direction I needed to go would work, but it did. I guess it allowed the latch adjustment to be effective. Now the door lines up perfect and now the door closes with just a firm push. It also opens like it's not sprung. Oh how happy for a small victory. I hope this helps others with this common problem.

Would like to hear more specifics as far as timing, type fuel, afr readings

That sounds about right for a well tuned machine. Congrats!

Just an update. I finally caught Les near a phone and he told me to send the defective ZG flare back. He said there were a few odd ones, not sure what that meant. He also said he recieved my e-mails, but couldn't download my pictures on his phone? So if he recieves the e-mails I guess he doesn't have time to respond? Actually he has never responded to any e-mail I have sent him. I'm trying guys, but not sure about this. For you that 'know" him, please understand this is nothing personal because he seemed very cordial on the phone. I guess this is the nature of the beast when dealing with a small market hobby car.