madkaw

Might want to read the directions first-

Yep, I guess you just missed that fact about the flange. That's what makes the swap so sweet! As far as the RT mount, everyone seems to have experienced the same thing as far as the tight squeeze. I had to beat mine into submission also!! Now my car has the T-5 trans(borg Warner from the ZXT) and the flange will not change out from the r200 diff, so I had to have the Subby flange redrilled to match the DS(PITA)

I'm with you as far as the 'fun factor'. It's the total package of sound , feel. The triples are a unique fun for the inline motors. Not too many engines have this option. It's not about the numbers, or I would just say turbo charge it. I will admit that frustration of tuning triples might diminish the fun. I have been lucky with my Mikunis, pretty much set them - forget them. You never did say if you have driven a triple carb? Wish we all lived closer to swap out keys!!!!! Sounds like your L24 is built just like mine( except for the triples)

Guy, always glad to see some engine building going on here at CZCC! A couples notes of discussion-I am suprised you have made so many engines the same way,i.e., same cam ,etc... Your choice, but thought a little variance to spice things up or experiment maybe with a different cam. Have you driven a triple carbed L engine yet? Your combo begs for a hard hitting induction system with accelerator pumps!!!!!!! How does the destroker compare to the L24? I like your engine build, but probably never go that route. I think I would rather make the full stroked L28 spin up faster with lightened flywheel/clutch and cam set-up. I have a P-79 head for anyone interested. Came off a runner and I won't be using it. The chambers look great on the P-79, but I'm set up for square exhaust

Put a Pertronix Unit in there an ditch the points- you won't regret it

Oops - didn't see the previous post and pic Stephen - you might be screwed with that cover. I did the whole r200 LSD thing with the big finned cover and had to make a large Heim joint to connect the LCA's. so either dump the cooler cover and put a stock one on or you have some fabbing to do

The diff is the same exact dimensions as the one you took out- you don't need that curved bar.

Wow- what a mess! Something's not right for sure. It's a shame a supposed Z guy handed this crap off to you. Good thing these engines are tough. This far along in the game I would be inclined to take the head off and hand it to someone to be checked for war page and any coolant passage issues. I would also be checking the timing cover as suggested . Take it off and clean it up and post pics. Haven't read too much about the cover cracking , but maybe the hack that sold you the car boogered something up.

So why are you taking out the T-5? Admittley the Nissan has better ratios but you will hate the shifter after you have been using the Mustang shifter. Your project looks good and you are running MS2?

I had black vinyl that I purchased from Joanne fabrics . Anything to keep things from rattling around

Mike, I found the thread!

Zero- decking is what?

#2 definetly

I think it depends what year diff you get. I believe STI's used both clutch and TB

Well static timing is where you set it at. You don't need to set it at factory specs. The ZX dizzy works out well for high initial timing( good for triples) and not too much mechanical advance. If someone had the time and energy you could work with the vacuum advance and limit the amount it draws in. As it is, it's just too much to use on the ZX dizzy and still run full 36-38 degrees advance for best power.thats why I can't wait to have ECU controlled ignition

I guess I assumed he wouldn't be using vacuum advance with his set -up. ID shoot for 20 initial and see how it runs-NO vacuum advance

You can use that module, just hook up the top connector only. The connection at the bottom/side is a timing retard- which you don't need. The advance numbers are the same as the 1280 dizzy

Looking good man!

Not sure if I have an exact answer for that-but in MOST cases that I have seen where there is an ignition break down, it seems to be most prevelant under low rpm and heavy loads. Buick V6s would buck like the trans was going out under load , but it was weak ignition coils breaking down. Glad you found it.

As Chas said, you need to do some homework. Figure out what head you have-exactly-WHY? ...because a 73 e-88 head on dish pistoned L28 block gets you 8:1 compression-yuk a early e88/31 head with flatops gets you 10:1-yummy A late model block would be ideal, or something with flat tops, hell, even a L24 or 26 Here is a link; L6 heads; pics and descriptions - L-Series - HybridZ

Like John said, a 30$ fix which John took care of, and she bolted up fine. Not sure where these other ideas are going, John took all the thinking out of the equation:)

How many miles on it and what shape is it in ? A lot of info missing but a rust free Z is worth a lot for the reasons you stated. Carl might jump in here and give his 2 cents, he is a better market judge. I know I might pay up to 7500$ for a rust free 1 owner even if most of the mechanicals needed some love.

If you are talking all the L motors up to 83? I'd say the bottom ends( short blocks ) are good for 250k+ with proper care. Heads are a bit different. The older the model, the shorter the life. Newer heads have the better seats and guides . Then you factor in FI engines burn cleaner which is easier on the parts. Accessories are very good as long as they are OEM

Like I mentioned before - check fitment of stub axle to DS before installing on diff. Make sure the flanges mate up correctly between the DS and stub axle with no gaps. Clean, clean and a little lube so you can pull them back apart for diff install.

So your thinking those axles will just bolt to the Subby diff?