madkaw

Pretty long thread over at Hybridz covering this. All out race motors !!

Reading your post again it seems to point to when you messed with the carbs. Have you done the drop test on the carb pistons? Are you familiar with SU carbs?

Start from ground zero. Like said above , check timing by finding TDC compression stroke and assuring the rotor is lined up with #1 cylinder . Put your timing light on each cylinder wire to check for spark. Did you buy the coil and pertronix igniter as a kit? The coil impedance needs to match. So if you bought a coil for a points ignition it won't work for electronic. Ohms resistance should be around 1 ohm for the proper coil.

Like he said... Process of elimination. I doubt it is induction or exhaust

You should be able to find .040 over pistons for the L24. My engine is .040. I would not consider l28 pistons, not enough block for that. L28 engines can be found for a reasonable price and it would be cheaper then expensive machining costs. Search- search and search again, it will save you tons of time and money.

It's nice how the gears will change the personality of your drive. Stepping out the rear is fun too! When you go back under there recheck every bolt. 1/2 turn loose on the diff cover/moustache bar or LCA will cause a clunk.

Probably on worth a couple hundred - but I'm offering 500$ :)cool father son project GO USAF- my daughter is an USAF officer!!!! Welcome to CZCC and the helpful staff here

Harbor freight ? Get a 3 finger puller- universal type

It's probably not going to take much , but DON'T pry on it. Use a puller, it will pop pretty easy, but prying will not get you anywhere. Any puller that you can make work.

Might want to read the directions first-

Yep, I guess you just missed that fact about the flange. That's what makes the swap so sweet! As far as the RT mount, everyone seems to have experienced the same thing as far as the tight squeeze. I had to beat mine into submission also!! Now my car has the T-5 trans(borg Warner from the ZXT) and the flange will not change out from the r200 diff, so I had to have the Subby flange redrilled to match the DS(PITA)

I'm with you as far as the 'fun factor'. It's the total package of sound , feel. The triples are a unique fun for the inline motors. Not too many engines have this option. It's not about the numbers, or I would just say turbo charge it. I will admit that frustration of tuning triples might diminish the fun. I have been lucky with my Mikunis, pretty much set them - forget them. You never did say if you have driven a triple carb? Wish we all lived closer to swap out keys!!!!! Sounds like your L24 is built just like mine( except for the triples)

Guy, always glad to see some engine building going on here at CZCC! A couples notes of discussion-I am suprised you have made so many engines the same way,i.e., same cam ,etc... Your choice, but thought a little variance to spice things up or experiment maybe with a different cam. Have you driven a triple carbed L engine yet? Your combo begs for a hard hitting induction system with accelerator pumps!!!!!!! How does the destroker compare to the L24? I like your engine build, but probably never go that route. I think I would rather make the full stroked L28 spin up faster with lightened flywheel/clutch and cam set-up. I have a P-79 head for anyone interested. Came off a runner and I won't be using it. The chambers look great on the P-79, but I'm set up for square exhaust

Put a Pertronix Unit in there an ditch the points- you won't regret it

Oops - didn't see the previous post and pic Stephen - you might be screwed with that cover. I did the whole r200 LSD thing with the big finned cover and had to make a large Heim joint to connect the LCA's. so either dump the cooler cover and put a stock one on or you have some fabbing to do

The diff is the same exact dimensions as the one you took out- you don't need that curved bar.

Wow- what a mess! Something's not right for sure. It's a shame a supposed Z guy handed this crap off to you. Good thing these engines are tough. This far along in the game I would be inclined to take the head off and hand it to someone to be checked for war page and any coolant passage issues. I would also be checking the timing cover as suggested . Take it off and clean it up and post pics. Haven't read too much about the cover cracking , but maybe the hack that sold you the car boogered something up.

So why are you taking out the T-5? Admittley the Nissan has better ratios but you will hate the shifter after you have been using the Mustang shifter. Your project looks good and you are running MS2?

I had black vinyl that I purchased from Joanne fabrics . Anything to keep things from rattling around

Mike, I found the thread!

Zero- decking is what?

#2 definetly

I think it depends what year diff you get. I believe STI's used both clutch and TB

Well static timing is where you set it at. You don't need to set it at factory specs. The ZX dizzy works out well for high initial timing( good for triples) and not too much mechanical advance. If someone had the time and energy you could work with the vacuum advance and limit the amount it draws in. As it is, it's just too much to use on the ZX dizzy and still run full 36-38 degrees advance for best power.thats why I can't wait to have ECU controlled ignition

I guess I assumed he wouldn't be using vacuum advance with his set -up. ID shoot for 20 initial and see how it runs-NO vacuum advance