madkaw

So is it true that the motor has nothing below 5krpm like stated in the video. I have a hard time believing that the L 6 has no torque down low unless his motor his set up with a 8krpm power band

Then there's working out the high pressure fuel pump to feed the FI. It's going to be more work then what you think- definetly not a one day job.

The best advice I can give for the engine is come up with a very specific plan and the knowledgable 'staff' here at Classic can help guide you along the way. Saying that you are going with 'all new' intake doesn't make sense. If you are staying with SU's, good choice for now by the way, then really nothing needs to be done. The head work is where all the HP is at. That doesn't mean replacing with all new parts either. Bigger valves are great and using used ones is cheap and OEM stuff is excellent. You don't need a new cam when regrinds are cheap and it keeps the proper metallurgy of OEM steel. Use a machinist that has dealt with these motors before. The proper machining and proper 'set-up' of these heads is imperative. The bottom ends are about bullet proof, so don't get crazy there. Doing your due diligence with searching will save you big$$ I AM speaking from experience. I have made dumb mistakes from not doing my homework.

Yep, but a better one. There is more rust then that-you haven't found it yet!

Non-magnetic

That's funny! Things are happening in Btown as usual

Drive it like you stole it and see what happens:)

David, Not trying to cut you down here, just putting your feet down on firma ground. They would cut you up and feed you to the lions over at Hybridz with your nubience. You will find a friendly group here that loves modified L motors. You will be suprised how much fun a well thought out performance L24 can be---- even at 160HP. Do some searching here and you won't see any square bore projects, but some good stuff. good luck

Sounds fun, but will only happen with GOBS of money and a professional builder like Rebello and you still won't see 240hp at the wheels. If you do- you will have very prestigious bragging rights. 240rwhp 240 would be a race motor. Now that I burst the bubble, shoot for 200rwhp and have some fun. I would think that 280 rods would be the trick with custom height pistons- and not dished pistons. How about introducing yourself and tell us about your engine building experience. It's obvious that you have some to learn about the L engine, and I'm not trying to be an a$$, just judging by your post. You might need to take your head to have it evaluated first before you make these plans. The early E-31 was prone to corrosion.

Have you checked for leaks ? Just one drop of raw fuel somewhere will stink up a whole garage - let alone a small cabin like the Z. After driving have you stuck your finder in the carb inlets to see if any fuel is pooling there? Then there is the tank vent box, but I would think you would smell that more with the windows are up

Thanks for sharing. It's true that 1/2" can make a difference. A half inch can be as much as 3 degrees nose up or down and throw everything off. That's why I was hoping to document some actual degree numbers for future reference. My vibration is much more subtle than yours and occurs at high speeds, so it makes it harder to diagnose.

Numbers should be all within 15% of each other. The smoke is another issue though

Just make sure to use brass feeler gauges . Maybe .010

I'm assuming your 5 speed is the Nissan? Then the only angles that changed for you was the Techno mount- which is what I am running. The GM mount changes the angle by at least 3 degrees. Keep us updated.

How fresh?

Try smaller shoes ?

LS 1 is better

I guess I will be on my own for this one. This would benefit those of you that did the RT mount and are using the GM mount ,or have done like me and switched to the T-5 trans.

There's many methods to setting up the driveline. I'm after someone to measure their driveline angles and report in. I might eventually find someone to come over to my place to measure , but meanwhile I am hoping to compare to one of you guys.

What I am hoping to find with this thread is basically stock operating driveline angles for the S -30. Some folks just refer to them as pinion angles, but I would like to know all the angles from trans to diff. Since my car is not stock having the newer Nissan T-5, I had to alter the trans bracket to mount the trans, so offering up my pinion angles would not be stock. I am trying to come up with is how Nissan set the angles up for such a short driveshaft. I have been having vibration issues at higher speeds and I am almost positive it is the DS. I have set the angles to what SHOULD work by reading about it, but the Nissan engineers might have had something different in mind with these chassis. I guess I am asking of those who have done this before and know how to take these readings. When I did mine I took my measurements off of the U- joint caps

Not really too bad. The hardest part is getting it broke loose to pull. One of my favorite tools is a 3lb dead blow hammer. Get her loose and use the cam as a handle to pull it off. Don't forget those 2 pesky bolts at the timing cover topside

David Irwin= member here, plug and play solution Daniel Stern = actor, Cibea lens sales, harness kits

. What I was looking for was stock pinion angles of operation for the s-30. I'm looking for exact numbers from your stock machine which includes down angle of trans, angle of DS, angle of pinion. My case of vibration is at 75mph approx. I WAS running the RT mount with GM insulator, but I have gone back to stock diff mount and using thr Rt to sandwich things-so-i should be in stock location at that end. The other end is my BWT-5 which has a mount bracket modified to fit my s-30. I think my trans is hanging to low, but would like to hear what operating angle is on a stock Nissan trans in the right chassis to compare with mine. I have been reading site after site on pinion angles and realized that my earlier calculations were not right. I am revisiting this issue, but knowing what Nissan did with the short DS operating angles would help clue me in. Obviously by all the threads I have been reviewing there has been numerous issues with getting this right---probably because of our very short shaft.

That's different. The rust free Z is in Chicago and you are in CA- You might try Hybridz also. I'm 4 hours away or I would help you out.

Most folks are scared of the wiring aspects and working with relays , but it is very straight forward and relays are very simple devices. The job can be made even easier by getting relays from a JY that already have wire leads coming from them instead of wiring your own ends into the relays. Most OEM relays are very robust and can be reused many times. I am using old ZX relays now for my ECU project .