madkaw

Great!!

Are you refering to Daniel Sterns schematics or the other link "alteredZ"?

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/electrical-s30/38383-daniel-stern-lighting-headlight-upgrade.html

Do the headlight relay upgrade-you will be glad:)

Have you checked the banjo bolt screens at the carbs? If you found dirt in the fuel-it made it to the carb? Filter screen at electric pump?

As far as performance, Yes it is worth running air horns.

Charles, there are many different types of Por-15 products. The rust inhibitor stuff doesn't like UV and the color will fade, but they sell top coats in many varieties that won't fade. I just have never been a rustoleum fan.

If I was going to do a roller paint job I wouldn't use Rustoleum . I would spring for some Por 15. The paint has much more pigment so there would be less layers needed. Of course I would check to see what products are sandable or can be buffed. I think the Por-15 stuff flows out well and I believe it would harden MUCH faster then the Rustoleum products. The Por-15 supposedly doesn't mind humidity- to an extent.

Exedy and drive it like you stole it- working good for me!

No more squeaky !!!!

I will talk to my wife( she works at IU) and see what options are available to temp student housing.

What weeks Jerry?

How are you sure this is an ignition issue. Maybe it's carb related. I'm having a hard seeing this as a timing issue unless the mechanical advance is sticking. If that was my Mikunis I would suspect accelerator pumps

Weak batteries do weird things to transistor units- just ask the HEI guys. Maybe a loose wire also to make matters worse

I think I've used both and I also have a speedi sleeve installed. New side seals, oil pan gasket , etc...

I've been fighting the rear main leaking from almost day one. Still leaking;(

I thought 12.7 was low. You should see 14+ volts running

Those are better than reasonable numbers- those are excellent numbers. I have read too many threads where folks have gone the stroker route and didn't do this good. Looking like 200+ HP at the rear wheels with triples is very possible . That is an accomplishment to be proud of- congrats. Where were you at with the timing and what ignition ?

Chris, please elaborate on the engine. We have so few dyno numbers posted here, it would be great for reference. Please be specific as to all aspects,-- timing, cam , head, exhaust, etc... Looks like good numbers. Did you not want to take it past 6000rpm? I'll be next soon with my double-triple numbers.

Try modifying an old flat blade screw driver or something that will grab the open slot areas between the tap cutting blades. It should back out with a little work and determination. I doubt you will be able to drill the tap as stated earlier. If you wind up not using that hole, I would suggest a riv nut instead of a sheet metal screw

I coated my spindle pin with Permatex anti seize - good stuff . My previous bushings had no slots to hold any lube. Installed one side outer and made sure movement was free after torque down. LCA pivots smoothly and sleeves are properly sized so urethane moves without loosening spindle nut.

Nismo from Courtesy is 125$ I think. If I thought the best gasket would help I wouldn't hesitate to spend the money. I put a Nismo on mine though I hated to spend the money. After blowing a Felpro with no known cause , I wasn't taking chances. Haven't had any relapses with the Nismo.

Those measurements don't really tell me much. You are looking for the difference of the two angles between the trans and the diff. It seems the short driveshaft needs to be right to avoid vibrations- less than a degree off.

let us know

If you had a way to measure DS angle it might be a clue of what's happening. It's kind of hard to find a good place to put a magnetic protractor , but that would tell you what your angles are. That's seems to be about the right speed for the vibes from what I have researched.