240ZX

Just looking for some input! Has anyone out there, using 17" wheels, tried the new Yokohama AVS ES100 tires. I've been running the Yokohama A520 tires (215-40 17 fr. 235-40 17 rear), which seem to work pretty well for spirited canyon running, but it's time for some new skins. What do you think guys? I'm open for suggestions.

Thanks to everyone for your input. I feel so much better now! Maybe sometime tomorrow I will see some pics of my Z, and you all can enjoy them as well. Thanks again everyone for your help.

Thanks for your help Mike. The links you mentioned didn't show up until I logged in (I though that I already had!!?). I added two photos and a message said they were successfully loaded. So, I went to see the results and all that appeared instead of a photo was a message saying "photo awaiting approval"..............say what? Is this normal or what. I'm not totally computer stupid but I've never had so much trouble as with this site.

I must be getting blind or something!!! I am also curious about adding photos so I did as suggested and clicked on the GALLERY but I have searched in vain for the "upload photo" link you spoke of!!?? Please help me out here....where is the "upload photo" link?

Just a thought, if you will, on oil preventing corrosion at the bottom of the strut. I'm not saying it will or won't stop corrosion, but oil floats on water! So, if water can find it's way into the strut, it will sink to the bottom. By the way, I use oil in my strut housings, as recommended.

Give Dave Rebello a call in northern California. I don't have his phone number on hand, but you can get it from his website. He modifies early SUs to 50mm and may have the info you are looking for. I had a set done by him for my L28 and as I remember the needles were hand profiled.

That is truely funny..........I would have loved to seen the look on the patrolman's face when he realized it was not your car!!! P.S. Did he follow you around the corner?

Your so gullable, it's just a little humor Alphadog. Anyone knows they are upside down....that's the funny part mate!!!

Not to bad mate, based on what is visible in the photo. Looks like you've got a sun roof as well! Are those down-under override bumpers on the front end??? Well, I guess you've got your work cut out for you now with a restoration. Good luck and stay focused.

Let's face it! For some people, their taste is in their mouth. Maybe the guy works at an abortion clinic..............sorry, I just couldn't resist that little dig.

If by chance you've done a transplant in your series 1 Z (I am assuming you have an early 240Z), using an R200 differential and R200 drive axles (flanged type) from a 1981 to1983 280ZX and you haven't shortened the right side drive axle, you may want to check for U-joint binding on the right drive axle when the suspension travel places the axle perpendicular to the differential (the shortest length the drive axle will obtain in it's travel path).

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Marty, Carl's explanation is very good. Maybe this info will help you out further. The purpose of the locking bolt is to correctly position the spindle in the assembly and to prevent it from rotating when you torque the spindle end nuts. As Carl said, the notch is not in the center of the spindle. Also, orient the flat, of the spidle notch, with the centerline of the locking bolt through hole before installing it. Rotating the spindle, when it's already installed is difficult if not impossible without dorking something up. The tapper on the locking bolt bears against the flat area of the spindle notch. Remember to use some type of anti-seize during assembly. hope this info helps you out.

After viewing your attachment I noticed that the locking bolt is still in place. This is a tappered bolt that secures the large through shaft from moving. It goes in place from the top. Put a nut back on the locking bolt, so you don't F up the threads, and hammer it until it breaks loose. Of course you will have to remove the nut before the locking bolt can be removed. As mentioned by one of the other guys, pre-soak the assembly with penitrating oil long before you start to hammer. Remember that these assemblies have been sitting for a long time and are tough to remove at best. I replaced the shafts and locking bolts with new ones just for peace of mind. I also used never-seize upon reassembly. Hope this info helps you out.

This sounds like a problem I once had with my 240. I was getting pretty frustrated with it, as you can imagine! It was eventually discovered that the distributor advance assembly was shot. The engine would run perfectly at and above full advance but would not idle properly. The thing that was so frustrating to me was that I had tried three different Nissan electronic distributors and they all worked the same.....like crap. (Note: these units were not purchased from Nissan, but were remanufactured units.) So, I finally broke down and installed a Mallory Uni-lite distributor. All is well now and my 240 purrrrs like a cat. This may not be your problem, but at least concider looking into the distributor advance assembly.

If you like sporty cars, and I think you do, you will enjoy the improved throttle response. My 240 employs a 13.5 lbs aluminum flywheel with a Centerforce II clutch and I love it. It drives better than it ever did with a heavy stock setup. Would I ever go back to a stock flywheel? I think not!!!

Your answer is yes, as long as the correct offset is used. I run 17x8 fr. & 17x9 rear, with 215-40 & 235-40 tires respectively. In addition I've shortened all four struts 1.5" and added coil-overs. Once you get into wider rims you will require coil-overs for clearance.

Marty is absolutely correct. Thanks you for giving more detail than I did.

FYI, I went through the exercise of looking into different classic car insurance companys and then called my insurance company (Farmers Ins.) to see what they offered. For about $50.00 more a year than the classic car insurance companys I got pretty much the same deal. Yes there is a mileage limit (5000 mi/yr) but my Z is not a daily driver. Basically, you decide what the value of your car is and they charge you accordingly. Example: Let's say you think your car is worth $25,000.....that's what they will charge you for! If the car is stolen, burns up, or is totalled you get $25,000. Pretty simple deal and I am insured with people I've been with for years and trust.

Maybe I'm not smart enough but, there seems to be no way to access the different Themes, to take a look at them and answer the considerations you posted! All I can access is voting on them, so I didn't vote. What's up?!!

If you choose the N42 head you will get bigger valves but you will loose compression on your L24. The N42 head, on a stock L28, only has about 8.3 to 1 compression. Of course the L28/N42 has dished pistons and your L24 has flat top pistons. Check out the numerous posts on heads for better details.

The electronic distributors will work however, you should aquire one from a manual trans car with a single pickup. If I remember correctly, the distributors from automatics have dual pickups and one of the two pickups is for retarding the timing.

I've resently gone through the same issue. Here is what I did because I wanted a specific style wheel in 17". Understand that I had to installed Ground Control Coilover for additional tire/wheel clearance. Anyway, I have installed 17"x8" on the front and 17"x9" on the rear. The offset on these rims is 35mm. So, obviously wheel spacers were in order. The front spacers are 1" wide and the rear spacers are o.788" wide. Also, I forgot to mention that the rear drum setup has been replaces with ZX discs. I also used used 3" long ARP 1/2" wheel studs to hold it all together. By the way, if I remember correctly, the stock offset for early Z car wheels is somewhere between 0.125" to 0.0" !!? There are easy ways and expensive ways to get the tire/wheel combo you desire. Personally, my favorite easy way is to use the Panasport wheels (15s or 16s) as they look great when the car is set at a correct ride height. I did not choose this avenue because there are just too many Z cars with this setup. If you choose the method I used, with the GC coilovers, you will need to use 8" long springs in the rear and 10" in the front.