RIP260Z

Zedrally, If you are interested, I have managed to get hold of: 16455-N3311 Gasket kit x2 16354-N3310 (which I think is the correct part no. ) needle N66 on order from Japan, and I have a set of N57 and maybe able to get a pair of M76 and M87 needles. 16466-N3311, Piston choke 16101-N3605 Valve 1.7 16496-N3300, Nozzle Also a pair of top dampers (where you put the oil in) air filter to carb. gasket a few air box bolts and an metal assembly tube (did not write part no. down). The only things listed with a price were the gasket kits and the N66 needles. The rest had prices that were current 10 yrs ago. Cheers Ian

Hi Alan, Absolutely fabulous. Very pleased for you. I look forward to some day seeing it in the flesh. Best regards Ian

Sblake01, Yes got my left and right mixed up. Though the statement " All cars - a plate screwed to the RF strut upright in the engine bay." is wrong, as mine is on the left.. Cheers Ian

Thanks Will. I have a couple of the grommets, but they are in very poor condition and have been covered in some horrible sealer that I can't remove without destroying what is left of a fragile part. Thanks again Ian

Quote 26th-Z "All cars - a plate screwed to the RF strut upright in the engine bay." UK spec. 260z (late models definately) had a "separate plate attaching area" behind the RF strut upright. see pic. Cheers Ian

Will, Thats appreciated. I had a look at my printed out microfiche when I got home (same as yours). The first attachment shows the air con. the part you are pointing to is no.80 (yes?). If so, this is located on the left hand side of the engine bay firewall (see first pic). I know this is correct as I have a brand new no. 81 and the part no. matches the microfiche. The part I am after is on the right hand side of the engine bay firewall (see second pic). The second attachmentyou posted, you are looking at no. 14 (yes?). I think this is located on the cabin side of the firewall. I think this is a plate/bracket with the two heater pipes on. The grommet I am after fits over the pipes of no. 14. If you look at the microfiche for the pre'73 heater assembly, you can see (and they have a part no. listed) for the donut type heater grommet and the equivalent of no.14. The grommet I am after would look like no.80 but smaller. Size of no. 80 grommet is 10.5cm x 4.6cm and no. 81 (plate) is 11.6cm x 5.6cm. Size of the grommet I am looking for is (approx.) 7.9cm x 4.1cm and the plate which cover this grommet is 8.4cm x 4.4cm. 2nd pic (just to the right of the throttle linkage) is where the heater pipes stick through the firewall and the plate. (behind that plate is the grommet I am after). (I had these photos store on my pc and are not taken specificly for this query). I think there is no part no. for heater grommet I am after, nor the plate that covers it. But I want to be proved wrong. I think I may have to make one using the plate as a template. Cheers Ian

Thanks hls30.com. I would have posted a picture, but my works pc is about as old as an abacus! A part no. would be good. Don't think that since I am on the other side of the pond it would be different, as there are alot of parts with the same numbers. Cheers Ian

Hi, I have had no luck trying to get hold of the grommet that goes on the firewall where the heater matrix pipes come through. It is not the two donut type ones on the earlier cars (up to 1973 I think), this is for a 1978 260z. It is a one piece grommet, held in place by a metal plate. (The metal plate looks like a smaller version of the blanking plate for the a/c on the firewall). I can't find a part no. listed on my microfiche, my good source in the UK had no luck, and I have tried the likes of Banzai Motorworks, ebay, its not listed in my MSA catalogue. Can someone help with a part no. or a proven source for this part. Cheers Ian

Crank the motor over/let the fuel pump work with the fuel pipe disconnected near the engine to see if the fuel is getting to the engine. If it comes through, its something the FI end, If it is not, it could be as said before, clogged gas tank. Ian

Robert, I have yet to start working on my flat tops so I can't truthfully say, but can you knock the bar from one end so it come out the other? I don't know if there is anything stopping this, but I thought I would at least drop the idea by you. Cheers Ian

Rolf, Just to clarify, are these the braided hoses, or the rigid pipes that are mounted to the car body? If these are the braided hoses, I think the longer ones go on the rear. My reasoning- the front mounting points for the flexi pipes (to the car) are basiclly just behind the front struts, while the rears are in front of the struts and futher away. The flexi pipes at the rear have to be a longer length, as they are futher forward. Also, the flexi mounting points fit about a 1/3 up the strut, while the rears have to go all the way down to the hub. This is probably long winded but I've tried..... Cheers Ian

Hi Miles, Can't help you out on getting one, but I thought I would post a pic to aid you on your quest.... Cheers Ian

I have both of my transverse mounting links off of my car at the moment (1978 260z) and both are the same as the right one. So I would think that it is from a later car. Cheers Ian

I second that book Dtsnlvrs, a very worthwile book as a practical guide. Good details on stripping the carbs down and how to tune them.

Have asked my contact here in the UK for service parts to purchase now so I am ready in a few yrs time to rebuild them. He has gasket kits, nozzles and valve assemblies, he thinks, maybe needles and other misc. bits for flat tops. Will have to see what I can get. My next job is to take the old needles out and see what number they are. Cheers Ian

Thanks Mike, When I get round to it I plan to completely strip them which will help a lot. As the rebuild kits seem to be NLA, I better keep my eye for any New old stock.. Cheers Ian

Thanks Stephen, Its the same in the UK there is more interest in swapping the emmision flat tops for the su type. I would have done the same, but since I want to be standard, it defeats the object. But I thought I would ask anyway, as you never know until you ask. Why did you like them? Montezuma, thanks, but as people get rid of them like in the US, you can pick them up cheaply here. Cheers Ian

Hi, I am starting to think about my long term project, a late 260z (over here in the UK), and I am going completely standard, thus including flat top carbs. Yes, I want to use then, not bin them and put on round tops. Why, the late 260z is getting so rare here, and a standard one is even rarer. So, I am asking has anyone got any tips on using these carbs, refurbishing, tuning, things to watch out for. I have yet to ask the UK Z community, but since the US was the biggest market, someone must like using them. Cheers Ian

My UK 1978 260z was brought in 1991. Used it for a couple of years. Decided to restore while the rust was not too bad. 13 yrs later after a few problems (workshop where having car done burnt down, car not in at that time) body now restored and painted. Currently restoring the rear suspension and drive train. 3.1L engine to assemble, and all the little bits to bring the car together. Will be a clean (not garage queen) car for weekends and sunny days, as the UK winter is a bit unkind to z shells. Once finished, got another 260 to restore, this one will be totally stock. Cheers Ian

I agree with Arne. The door (and hence the glass) has to be longer so the passengers can get into the back. To add, as the roof line is different, do the door aperture has to as well. Cheers Ian

Mull, Excellent, what more can I say, except keep up the good work. Ian

I hope this will help; http://carfiche.com/fiche008/s30/index.pl?5:i:2 The shorter knuckles are down as options, and there are different part numbers for the standard length knuckles for the early cars (with a swap date of Jun/'70), as montoya_fan01 says Cheers Ian

A stone in your tire....

jmortensen, The steering knuckles here in Europe are the same length as the US ones. I have seen an original JDM Nissan/Datsun performance parts/Nismo catalogue and the shorter knuckles are listed in there as one of the many options. Also in my microfiche parts cd (US one), the short ones are listed in there as an option. I've just swapped my ones for the shorter ones. Sizes (from memory) are 115mm and 105mm. Cheers Ian

Gator, The rear insulation bush at the top of the rear suspension is taller on the later bodied zed. In theory it will lower, but I have no idea if it works (maybe someone else knows). The other thing to be aware of if putting in inserts to your existing struts, is the top lock nut is rather large and can be a bit of a pain to get undone. But have a search on previous threads on how other people have got on (I remember Gav240z had a thread on this). A tip I used when using spring compressors to help them from sliding down the coil, was to use some hefty cable ties on the spring to stop them slipping. The Tom Monroe book on How to restore your Z uses vice grips. Regards Ian