Bambikiller240

Ed gave a positive answer to the question posed. The entire body of the car IS the chassis. If dfr867 meant something else, he does need to clarify his question.

Please take a moment to say a prayer and/or Thank the members of the armed forces who have fought (and in many cases died) to protect the freedoms that we enjoy in our respective countries. All gave some, some gave all. Current Honor Roll

If you can find a 180 degree steel tube and a short length of hose to make the turn, then you could use generic hose. I couldn't find one at my local hardware store, so I took the path of least resistance (OEM hose). The float needs to hang down so that as fuel fills the tank the float rises. Should be obvious as to which way to install. Hold it horizontal, and see which orientation lets the float hang down the most.

First time I ever heard of a woman listening to her husband! Who wears the pants in your family, anyway? j/k

The only hose you should have a problem with, is the one at the rear (passenger side) which has a 180 degree bend in it. Using generic fuel oil rated hose in this location will not work unless you can find a way to keep it from kinking at that bend. A kink there will render the vent useless. Some folks have used a steel spring inserted in the hose to keep it open. I just bought that one hose from Nissan ( about $50) and used generic hose for the others.

Craig: You could also upload the pictures to a folder in your gallery here, the create a post in Tech Articles and link to each picture where-ever you want inbetween paragraphs. Similar to the Pertronix Install, or Fan Clutch Rebuild threads already posted there.

G' Morning Will: I was hoping that you'd see this thread and chime in, since you are or will soon be working on a wiring loom. I don't believe that I've seen this product before. Is this DeOxit product a paste , powder, spray, or ? What type of store is it found in? Auto Parts, Electronics, or ? Thanks, Carl

I would not drive the car at all with the transmission empty of gear oil. As for removing the fill plug, this can be difficult on a car which has not had the plug loosened for many years. Your best bet in my experience is to use a LONG extension on whatever socket/ratchet, or wrench you are using to gain leverage. On my car, when I first bought it I had to use a long extension and apply all the force I could muster using my LEG, rather than arms to loosen the plug. Steel plug threaded into Aluminum transmission = Disimilar Metal Corrosion. If when you get the plug loose, smear the threads with anti-seize compound to keep this situation from happening again. If you have read this far down, here's a little trick you might think about trying. Try to remove the back-up light switch (just a few inches forward of the fill plug). Sometimes that is easier to remove. If you get it out, fill the trans from that location. Re-install the switch, then figure out how you are going to get the filler plug loose.

Probably from that endangered species "Naugha" leather!

Remember everyone is entitled to their own opinion, OK? The people saying that this car isn't a Z Store Resto car are joking right? I mean: The Factory Resto cars sell for quite a bit less than what they commanded at the dealer. The cost of new and shiney parts, and body work (even with gaps at doors) is considerable. Someone went through the effort to counterfeit the Z Store program badges, and documentation shown in the auction page. [/list=1] ........all to try to sell a car that there is relatively little money to be made on, after sourcing parts, or refurbishing parts to new appearance? (and it *SHOULD* be easy to confirm via VIN if it was in fact part of the program or not). Doesn't make sense, or seem plausible to me. OK, Get out yer pea shooters, I'm standing here............. :cheeky:

Maybe something about the Jag electrics being powered by "Lucas, Prince of Darkness"?

Major concerns would include the brake system (rubber hoses, master and wheel cylinders, jellied brake fluid); fuel system (rubber hoses, rust and garbage in tank and lines, jellied fuel) Flywheel and Clutch Disc could be rusted together. Mice "stuff" possibly in the heater ducts, wiring may have been nibbled on.etc You mentioned the magic word (Rust) Floor pans can be cut out an new ones welded in, but I would suggest looking carefully at the Rocker panels and Dog legs to see if they need attention at the same time floor pan repairs are effected. Sounds like a nice find, but "just sitting" like that over a period of years can have worse effects than driving a car periodically over the same number of years. I would start with cleaning the fuel tank etc. No use trying to force any "foriegn materials" (crap) through your carbs and fouling them up. Just my $.02

If the engine has been fully warmed, I don't think that a 15 minute delay is going to amount to much. The lack of coolant "flowing" should (I would thik) let the internal temps remain relatively "soaked" throughout the internals. In doing compression tests on my 240Z's (L24) over the years, I've just warmed the engine thouroughly, pulled off the fuel lines to the carbs, pulled all spark plugs and coil wire, blocked the carb butterflies open, connected my remote starter, then tested. It had to take close to 15 minutes for me to do all that, as I don't work terribly fast. Compression has always been seemingly accurate (160-170psi, wet) on engines that were in good condition.

The auction offers a FREE Carfax record check on the VIN. (towards the bottom and on the right side) Anyone try to click on the link? I did. It doesn't work. Carfax wants a 17 digit VIN and car must be at least a 1981 model.

You're welcome Ben.

Performance wise, looks like with a V8 it was a fun car to zip around in. Have to read more about it later.

Picture?

No, What does it say?

Nothing! I wish they had a Sonic in my town! Guess I'll have to be satisfied with an In N' Out Burger.

In a brief look at the auction I noticed that this 1971 240Z is claimed to have "intermittant wipers". I wonder if that is true? If so, it would lead one to suspect that Nissan used a 1973 wiring harness in the "resto" of this car, since the intermittant wipers were not available until the 1973 model cars. Also, no luggage straps in the back. What's up with that!?

Stephen: You are the second person to say this, however nobody posts any performance data. All we get is pictures, so that is all we can comment on. Come on someone post some performance info! Then we can talk about it!

This one is going to be like starting with a matchstick and restoring it to a Giant Sequoia.

Sorry, can't tell a thing about performance from Alfadog's picture.